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Thread: UPS info
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26th Jul 2022, 08:38 PM #16Most Valued Member
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Yes that's the point. The engineer that designed the UPS knew it wouldn't require much of a duty cycle due to the size of the battery, so why bother with large heatsinks, fans, higher spec components, etc? If it was an online UPS or had the option to add more batteries the engineer would known that and design accordingly.
But hey the price for failure is likely just the UPS trips due to over temp.
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28th Jul 2022, 12:30 PM #17Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I put a current meter on the 3D printer and without the heater bed (I have a separate mains powered bed) and the printer nozzle at 210º, the printer draws fairly constant ~0.5A or 120W.
The UPS is rated at 10 minutes at half power (450W) so it should run the printer for 37.5 mins.
The heater bed on the printer is powered separately and rated @ 750W.
The heater is on an Al bed support plate and the bed itself is tempered glass.
This would take the total power requirement to run both the bed and the printer to 970W, but once up to temperature, the heater bed PID tickles the power into the "on state" for only about 10% of the time, ie a couple of seconds every 20 or so seconds.
It will be interesting to see if the UPs can support both the heater bed and the printer.
If not, I will run the heater bed direct from the mains and rely on thermal inertia to maintain enough temperature to hold the print onto the bed.
It depends on the filament material, shape of the print and if I use a glue stick coating, but for something like PLA in decent contact with the bed it takes at least 20 minutes for the bed to cool down enough to self detach from the bed. Usually I use a razor blade to lift the edge of the print and the a thin paint scraper to pry it of.
I also need to insulate the printer enclosure - once that is done the heater bed will take even longer to cool down.
Endless experiments ahead
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