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  1. #1
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default Latest Gismo and jig.

    This is the latest gizmo I've been working on.
    It's a hand sander with vacuum attachment - yeah I know you can buy these for $50 but mines a bit different.
    The removable base will have velcro on it, but instead of constantly swapping the grits which eventually craps up the velcro you swap the bases until the paper wears out so less wear and tear on teh velcro.
    The paper is not actually a paper but a woven mesh with loads of gaps in it to let the air/dust through
    Plans1.jpg

    So far I've printed out 3 prototypes in PLA and got this far.
    Protype2assemb.jpg

    The next step is to print the base in PET which will be tougher and more flexible than PLA.

    Also made this nozzle holder to hold them while cleaning and un-blocking them.
    My fat fingers find them very hard to hold and its even harder when the little blighters have to be heated to <200șC to melt the clogged up plastic.
    To help unblock them 0.4 mm diameter acupuncture needles are used - I can barely see these needles even in good lighting and have drawn blood a few times.
    The holder allows me to apply heat with a small hot air gun and poke about with the needles.

    NozzleH.jpg

    There are two positions - one for M6 1mm threaded nozzles and one for M6 0.75mm nozzles and room for more if needed

  2. #2
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default

    Now with PETG base plate.
    PETBaseplate.jpg

    Now I'm awaiting the delivery of some 10 and 6 mm silver steel rod to make some custom punches to punch the holes in the neoprene foam and velcro hook material that will be stuck to the baseplates.

    To assist with hole alignment I want to do this with the neoprene foam and velcro hook material already stuck onto the base plate so the punch goes through the holes in the the base plate first.

    I have a few small wad type punches but they are too fat to fit through the base plate holes and these punches have their cutting bevels on the outside which tends to spread the material outside the hole which could detach the foam from teh base plate.

    So I need punches with the cutting bevel on the inside, This will then tend to compress the material inside the hole.
    I will turn the punches (10/8 and 6mm) down to size and make them with quite thin walls which will make them easier to use.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    How did the PETG go did you have any issues ? I've read that one needs to have a warmed enclosure around the printer to stop warping, I need to print a cover for the enclosure that holds my mill work light switch and was thinking of trying PETG rather than PLA.

  4. #4
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    How did the PETG go did you have any issues ? I've read that one needs to have a warmed enclosure around the printer to stop warping, I need to print a cover for the enclosure that holds my mill work light switch and was thinking of trying PETG rather than PLA.
    I have an enclosure but its not insulated.
    It was built to reduce problems associated with drafts and I had planned to print with ABS and the enclosure was going to be vented outside but that's off teh cards ATM.
    The enclosure does increase the air temp inside the enclosure by about 15șC above ambient which is better than nothing.
    I might have a go at insulating it with some Al foil or aluminised mylar fils.
    enc3.JPG

    RE: PETG warping
    It usually depends how soon you remove it from the bed after printing is completed, and other stuff like the shape of the object itself and what tensions have been printed into it.
    If it is removed too early before the bed and print have cooled I found it warps more.

    Here is an example of some hand sander bases I printed, these are 200mm long
    The RHS one is the bent more and was removed from the bed almost as soon as the print finished
    The LHS was removed from the bed when the temp was about 40șC (bed run T is 80șC)
    In the case of these hand sanders bottoms this degree of bow doesn't matter much because the action is to push down and it flattens easily and immediately.
    Bow.jpg

    I've printed 4 of the same bases in PLA and their range of bow is not that different to the PETG which suggests the structure is part of the problem.

    Here are some 1.5mm thick dough scraper blades, black is PLA and white is PETG
    Doughscraper2.jpg

    In the second Photo two of the scrapers are back to back and they are both pretty good.
    The PETG one was left ON to cool down after printing.
    Doughscraperedges.jpg

    The other thing I find is PETG leaves loads of little spiders webs everywhere but a debarring tool cleans these up very easily.

    Other than that I really like using it

  5. #5
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    Default

    I did try ABS with no enclosure and it was a fail - the part warped so badly it came away from the heated bed so maybe it's time to get serious about an enclosure - I was thinking of an enclosure made from corflute and 20mm electrical conduit, I've got 5 or 6 lengths that I doubt I'll ever use.
    I like your bottle cap remover - I assume that is what it is - I made one for my 97 yr old mum so she can open milk cartons but it only really fits one size and she has not only proper cows milk but also some of the other so-called milks - oat, almond and soy, the caps all vary slightly in size, I might pinch your design and make one like that for her.

  6. #6
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    I did try ABS with no enclosure and it was a fail - the part warped so badly it came away from the heated bed so maybe it's time to get serious about an enclosure - I was thinking of an enclosure made from corflute and 20mm electrical conduit, I've got 5 or 6 lengths that I doubt I'll ever use.
    3D printer enclosures have been discussed in the woodies forums. At one stage I remember suggesting corflute.

    My son has experimented with various material including thick builders plastic, cardboard and MDF, I still have his MDF box somewhere and still use it for dust experiments.
    He wasn't really happy with any of them. One thing he did say was to try and retain as much visibility and access as you can.

    One thing about mine that is worth considering is I can easily separate the front half from the back (the two halves are held together with 3D printed G-clamps) This means I dont have to lift the whole thing over the top of the printer which makes it very easy to put on/off and to remove and service the printer.

    A few years ago I made a photography light tent/enclosure out of PVC irrigation pipe and fittings. It had a bright white cotton cloth cover stretched over it - I still have it somewhere. It was dead easy to make.

    I like your bottle cap remover - I assume that is what it is - I made one for my 97 yr old mum so she can open milk cartons but it only really fits one size and she has not only proper cows milk but also some of the other so-called milks - oat, almond and soy, the caps all vary slightly in size, I might pinch your design and make one like that for her.
    As well as that bottle cap remover having variable size, it has an extra smaller ring that can go even smaller built into it.
    Its from thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5419601

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