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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    Europe
    Age
    30
    Posts
    36

    Default Jeweling/circle polish tool, done very easy

    so the problem with putting this tool together has always been attaching the damn scotch brite. just to explain what this tool, its an abrasive tool thats inserted into a drill press (it doesnt work with hand drill) and its forced against a metal plate in which the abrasive grinds the surface to cause a circular pattern

    many methods have been devised for this, velcro, glue, rolled up sandpaper in a small pipe etc, but i have not yet come across something similar to what i eventually managed to throw together

    the construction is simple. M16 threaded rod, disc at the bottom, 2 M16 nuts
    its constructed by first putting on a nut and then positioning the nut so that it keeps the disc just a bit above the threaded rod so you get a bit of a gap to fill out with welding

    we have sold off our lathe, but i found it that carefully grinding the end on belt sander works well if you just keep light grip with left hand and use right hand to kind of "stroke" it to rotate, otherwise you may be able to cause the belt grinder hitting the threaded rod to cause the rotation itself but you need a piece of metal to push against it with to cause very low friction with the object you apply pressure with

    next up you put a piece of scotch brite around the disc so that it touches the threaded rod, a nut, and preferably a disc is then put on the threaded rod so that it keeps the scotch brite into place
    this system is very easy to work with as you can very quickly change scotch brite- but really you rarely have to do this as you can simply grind the outer layer of scotch brite on a belt grinder and the scotch brite will go an extra mile

    you can get a large plate finished fast if you crank the drill press up to 3000rpm and dont clamp it down.
    jeweling tool 2.jpgjeweling tool 1.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    303

    Default

    HI Zeth,
    I'd love to see some pics of the jewelling results your tool makes please

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Briangoldcoast View Post
    I'd love to see some pics of the jewelling results

    Bottom of the second photo?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    395

    Default

    This is engine turning isn’t it ?
    Done bit using a dowel and grinding paste from memory.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Ipswich QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,996

    Default

    Looks great something I've always admired yet to have a go.

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Here are some notes on the subject I found, but haven't yet tried.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Chris

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Mornington Peninsular
    Posts
    23

    Default

    A 3M roloc scotch brite pad with a roloc drill arbor does the same thing as far as I can see. That’s what I use.

    https://www.3m.com.au/3M/en_AU/p/d/b40064719/

    Leigh


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    There needs to be some form of jigging to :

    Keep the swirls in a straight line
    and have a method to equally space the "jewels".

    If either of these are overlooked the results can look pretty crappy in a larger size unit.

    We found this out in doing an aluminium jeweled dash for a race sports car.If the x + y increments are not kept equal it sticks out like DB's.

    Grahame

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ambrosia View Post
    That’s what I use.
    can you please tell me what grit you use? And given you live in my neighbourhood, where you get them from?
    TIA.
    Chris

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    Europe
    Age
    30
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    There needs to be some form of jigging to :

    Keep the swirls in a straight line
    and have a method to equally space the "jewels".

    If either of these are overlooked the results can look pretty crappy in a larger size unit.

    We found this out in doing an aluminium jeweled dash for a race sports car.If the x + y increments are not kept equal it sticks out like DB's.

    Grahame
    yes i havent quite figured out how to make a simple machine for dishing out maybe 20mm of spacing with a single click, i just do it by hand and it takes quite some concentration to get it well. but ive managed to do that, simply positioning the jeweling tool just outside the center of the last jeweling circle
    it also works well on zincplated parts
    interesting with the steel wire brush
    one interesting thing is that if you glue it on, you can have maybe 50mm plate that you attach the scotch brite on, but if you only attach 10mm piece of scotch bright dead center, you will make 10mm jeweling
    the wire brush seems perfect for making smaller jeweling, which is oftenly very difficult to me since i have used rolled up sandpaper stuck in a small metal pipe- and i did make a small configuration for this where you can push out the sandpaper using a screw on the top to get more "milage" and at the same time able to mount it in a drill press

    my boss usually complains about me making "weird" stuff, but this one plate for our bandsaw he havent yet complained about- i take it hes simply baffled haha.
    you need to see it in motion to really get the gist (video underneath)
    https://gyazo.com/07008e074d8e846755e5d8607025ceff

  11. #11
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    An X/Y vice/table would produce a pretty regular spacing.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Mornington Peninsular
    Posts
    23

    Default

    I bought the roloc arbor from Total Tools as a kit with some sanding disks. I used the blue pad - no idea what grit.


    My first attempt:



    As Bob suggests, trying it on the drill press was hopeless. Used the y axis on the mill with a DRO for overlap.

    Leigh


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Here's a pretty good video on the subject. Includes using an X-Y table with DRO.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY7sCiahxHA
    Chris

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ambrosia View Post
    I used the blue pad - no idea what grit.
    Thanks. The blue is 240 grit.

    https://www.totaltools.com.au/123449-pferd-50mm-very-fine-quick-change-surface-conditioning-disc-combidisc-5pc-47200083
    Chris

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    There is some extra material I found.

    I have been looking at some early pics of the Spirit of St. Loius aircraft.
    It s is beautiful compared it to some other jewelling.

    Here is some more information on setups.

    https://ezinearticles.com/?Engine-Tu...uide&id=622286

    Grahame

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