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Thread: Your help gratefully requested
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9th Sep 2015, 07:50 PM #1Novice
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Your help gratefully requested
Hi there,
I'm in the process of making a few knives and associated sharp things, ideally a draw knife too.
Can I weld (or get someone else to weld) some mild steel to my knife making steel? I have some 154cm, and 1095. The mild steel part would make the tang, so the join is clearly important.
Also, can I use some sort of welding rod to make a hard cutting edge onto plain steel? Isn't there such things as hard facing rods? Would that work?
Thanks!
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9th Sep 2015, 09:25 PM #2Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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If the knives are short enough there's no need to add mild steel tangs, they can be the same hardness as the blades.
For longer knives preferential blade and tang treatment is a better way to maintain the integrity between the two rather than attaching a mild steel tang.
That aside I have done exactly what you suggested when making drawknives.
See here http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...ight=drawknife
As my blade material was an old file I did temper it first so I could more easily grind off the teeth and shape the blade.
I assume your stock is already annealed which is fine to weld but then it will need to be hardened and tempered for optimum longevity of the edge.
I believe the 1095 cam be welded in its hardened state but maybe someone else can confirm this.
Also, can I use some sort of welding rod to make a hard cutting edge onto plain steel? Isn't there such things as hard facing rods? Would that work?
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9th Sep 2015, 09:43 PM #3
Hard facing rods are really not the right type of hard for a knife edge, they will chip too easily.
I would imagine the 154CM would be very hard to weld, you would need to TIG it with the correct filler.
Every maker i know uses the same steel all the way through, whilst this may seem wasteful it is the best way of ensuring the strength of the finished knife.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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9th Sep 2015, 10:52 PM #4Novice
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9th Sep 2015, 10:55 PM #5Novice
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9th Sep 2015, 10:59 PM #6Novice
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https://www.crucible.com/eselector/p...ss/154cms.html
Seems welding will be pretty damn difficult
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12th Sep 2015, 08:46 AM #7Senior Member
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- Jun 2011
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- gold coast
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I have welded 'rebar' onto 1095 to heat treat it, thinking i could 'break' it off later. No such luck!
I ended up leaving the rebar there for the tang.
Metallurgy aside, I think it's worth trying. It worked for me.
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12th Sep 2015, 11:09 AM #8
audio
Have a listen to this guy ..he makes knives
http://www.abc.net.au/radionational/...rnsten/6769276
http://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/...10/4309665.htm
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12th Sep 2015, 12:10 PM #9
John and his Son Tom are 2 of only a handful of guys able to do it full time in Aus. Most of the full time guys supplement their making with teaching, i don't think the Tassie boys do.
Whilst i'm sure its against forum "rules" I would suggest you go over to the ABF (Australian blade forum), you will get a lot more answers.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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