Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    victoria
    Age
    63
    Posts
    28

    Default Sheraton 9AR Gearbox input shaft

    Looking for some information on the removal of the input shaft to the 9AR gearbox.
    Looking at the Sheraton and Hercus they appear similar save to say the Sheraton has a locking collar with a grub screw Vs Hercus with a taper pin.
    I have the collar removed but cant seem to move the shaft.
    My assumption is the shaft should move from inside the gearbox to the outside - based on the collar being on the inside of the gearbox to prevent the shaft from moving out of the gearbox.
    The first compound gear is fixed to the shaft - I'm assuming it is a very tight keyway holding it in place.
    There are two small plugs, one beside the 1st compound gear and the other in the casting between the second compound gear and the lock collar. As best as I can tell these are plugs to hold the bushes in place for the two oil passages from the outside of the gearbox.

    Thanks
    TonyB

    IMG_7903.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    229

    Default Sheraton AR Gearbox


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    victoria
    Age
    63
    Posts
    28

    Default thanks for the picture

    Quote Originally Posted by Petip View Post
    Many thanks for this picture - it is true that a picture tells a thousand stories
    Is the book this picture comes from available to buy a copy of from anywhere?

    From the picture - the first cluster gear G/12 is secured to the input shaft G/46 with woodruff key G/44.
    As best as I can tell from this, with the lock collar G/51 removed from the end of the input shaft, the shaft should be able to move out of the gearbox housing towards the large boss that the yoke fits on (the change gear end).
    I have tried placing the housing boss on two blocks of redgum timber with the input shaft stub between them and gently tapping the shaft with a soft face dead blow hammer and a brass drift but the shaft does not seem to want to move. Without knowing a bit more about how the gear is secured to the shaft I'm not game to give it a bigger hit or try to press it out.
    I cant imagine why it would be so tight as it would have to have been able to be put on with some ease when initially assembling it as the middle boss would not take a lot of force if it was used to hold the gear secure while driving the shaft into the keyway unless a special tool / spacer was placed between the middle boss and the lead screw end of the housing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    victoria
    Age
    63
    Posts
    28

    Default Sheraton 9A Gearbox

    well with the help of the ausome parts picture I got the input shaft out and have been able to clean everything up and reassemble the gearbox.
    I found deformities on a couple of teeth on the first input cluster gear and also on the left tumbler idler gear - probably from cuttings etc finding their way through the gear train, these caused the gears to bind so some careful work on the offending teeth and the whole lot turns freely now.
    Assembling the cluster gear set was fun trying to get the gears and the keyway aligned, ended up putting some white marker paint on the teeth that matched each gear pair and with that I knew which position they needed to be when I fed the shaft through. It was like having to get the tumblers of a combination lock aligned to open it.

    The gearbox is back on the lathe and I am now working on the apron.
    Another journey learning how these things are put together.
    I notice the Hercus aprons have an oil reservoir under the clutch area, my apron has a grease nipple in the bottom section to the left of the clutch knob - which is a round knob with knurling around the edge as compared to the Hercus knob with four finger grips.

    Does anyone know if the grease nipple is normal or should there be a plug in that hole and fill the reservoir with oil?
    If the grease nipple is normal, what grease is used in here?
    Ordinary grease is thick and not going to be picked up by the gear teeth and distributed around the gearbox like oil would. Does it need the likes of a self leveling grease or something else?

    Again my thanks to all for your help with this little project.

    TonyB

    IMG_7915.jpg






    Quote Originally Posted by ajbvicau View Post
    Many thanks for this picture - it is true that a picture tells a thousand stories
    Is the book this picture comes from available to buy a copy of from anywhere?

    From the picture - the first cluster gear G/12 is secured to the input shaft G/46 with woodruff key G/44.
    As best as I can tell from this, with the lock collar G/51 removed from the end of the input shaft, the shaft should be able to move out of the gearbox housing towards the large boss that the yoke fits on (the change gear end).
    I have tried placing the housing boss on two blocks of redgum timber with the input shaft stub between them and gently tapping the shaft with a soft face dead blow hammer and a brass drift but the shaft does not seem to want to move. Without knowing a bit more about how the gear is secured to the shaft I'm not game to give it a bigger hit or try to press it out.
    I cant imagine why it would be so tight as it would have to have been able to be put on with some ease when initially assembling it as the middle boss would not take a lot of force if it was used to hold the gear secure while driving the shaft into the keyway unless a special tool / spacer was placed between the middle boss and the lead screw end of the housing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    victoria
    Age
    63
    Posts
    28

    Default grease nipple in apron

    just passing on that I have learnt that the grease nipple in the bottom of the apron for filling the chamber with OIL (Sheraton recommended High Quality Engine Oil SAE 10).
    In some circles the fitting is referred to as a ZIRK / ZERK.
    The grease nipples on the headstock on the other hand are intended for greasing the headstock bearings with an ELP2 grease.

    Cheers
    Tony

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