Thread: Signal Wiring - SEW Eurodrive MOVITRAC LTE

Hi wise people. I'm seeking some guidance. I recently purchased an ATM 260 and to relocate it, disconnected the hard wiring, removed the lathe form the stand, and electrically disconnected the installed VFD. Now I'm attempting to reassemble this some months later (protracted project this one). The facts are;
The VFD model is MC LTE A0008-2B1-1-20. So an older model!
It's mounted inside on the back of the stand elec cabinet.
The VFD only acted as an invertor, no controls were used (bit hard where located)

There is the standard and obvious wiring
240v 1ph supply
The 3ph wiring going out

Where I'm struggling;
The power/control circuit contains;

• A center off rocker switch
• A kill switch (front panel)
• Saftey interlock switch (lid, saddle travel etc)

But I don't understand how/why the set up for the power/control wiring. Why use a Rocker Sw. (didn't notice this when I bought it)
I've drawn up how it 'appears' it was configured prior to disconnection (attached). Please be aware, this based on how I interpret the Signal Terminals function and the wiring I have in front of me (Terminal 1 being an output, 2 & 3 being inputs.)
I've also included images from the Operating Instructions, and the complete instruction booklet.

Can anybody explain/help.

Regards

SEW Eurodrive control wiring.pdfMovitrac LTE A Operating Instructions 09_2007.pdf

H Rusty,

From a quick perusal of your diagram, it seem that the switch selects the internal speed setting or an external control !

You need to power it up and see what the parameter P-19 is set to to understand the original intent.

My guess the way you've drawn it would be it's set to 5, 7 or 9, to act as a fwd or reverse selector, but then again I have no idea what other controls you have on the machine, mechanical or otherwise. Most of the options in P-19 seem to deal with FWD/REV in some way on those two terminals.

If there are no other electrical signals to the VFD, the motor must be starting whenever the power is turned on, if you didn't have to get into the cabinet? Or did you use the e-stop or interlocks to start?

I think you’re on the money. It’s most likely forward and reverse selection.

Just a note on the way that wiring is done, you may wish to alter how the E-Stop works so it is mains rated and works on the incoming supply. It’s not considered good practice to run an E-Stop into an input like that. In the event you need the E-Stop you want to make sure it kills the whole thing, if something has gone wrong there is no guarantee the E-Stop will register and be acted upon correctly using a GPIO terminal like that. Having a mains rated switch that interrupts both Active and Neutral on the incoming supply line to the VFD ensures the machine will stop.

If it was me, I'd be taking note of all the parameter settings first and that will tell you how it was wired up, before you owned it.
There probably won't be that many changed from dfault, but you need to know which ones are.
From there, I'd set it up temorarily on the bench to get it working and prove the wiring.
Then make a electrical drawing of the circuit.

Steve

Apologies for the delay in responding and thanking all who took the time and trouble to respond. Immensly appreciated.

I tracked down the previous owner and he stated exactly what you folk had come up with. It's a simple Fwd/Rev function.

Also suggested by racingtadpole was rearranging the EMERG Sw wiring. Good pickup and that will be changed. Both the Emerg Sw and the cover interlock will switch out the 240. I'll have a very simple and safe setup for the Fwd/Rev function as a result.

The more recent isssue experienced was the garage RCD (RCBO) tripping every time I connected the motor. Dont worry, I did a bunch of checks, motor is fine, no shorts or low resistance. VFD is also fine, for an antique. I've moved it off that circuit and ordered a new RCD.

What I will do is give a big thumps up and shout out to SEW Eurodrive, specifically, Michael Stranieri, National Mechatronics Engineering Manager. He has been an excellent source of info and support. When I first experienced the tripping I reached out and he came back with a bunch of ideas, info and tests. I honestly thought I get no answer, or, "you need to buy a new one", at best.

And just to close out. Some people just don't care or are blind. I had to remove the motor to align the cover switch wiring conduit when reinstalling the bed back on the cabinet. I noticed it was a rather dirty gerally, as part of the clean I took the cover off, and the photo depicts what I found. The rest of the lathe wasn't treated much better, so I might have wasted some of my hard earned.

Henry
Motor full of crap.jpg