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  1. #16
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    I think I found the problem

    The water on the bench in between the end caps is about half of what came out of the motor when I opened it up.
    MotorWater.JPG

  2. #17
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    Have you tested the RCD?

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I think I found the problem

    The water on the bench in between the end caps is about half of what came out of the motor when I opened it up.
    MotorWater.JPG
    Hi Bob,

    Looking at your picture, why am I not surprised !

    It looks like a good clean and giving the windings a bake in the oven wouldn't go amiss ! Grease the end cap rims when you reassemble it as it will reduce the possibility of water being sucked in. Warm motor + damp air = water. I'd check the bearings as well whilst its apart.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #19
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    Have you tested the RCD?
    Do you mean the RCD button push?

  5. #20
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    I got a power point tester with a RCD tester built in for Christmas from my 17 year old son, it was something I'd been thinking of buying and wasn't very expensive, a handy little gaget.

    It showed up one of my extension leads I got used from someone that the active and neutral had been reversed when wired up and I was using it.
    Great little unit for the price which was under $50

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  6. #21
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    This one, it's gone up probably $5-$10

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-PO...154756-20017-0

    There is another style I just seen for $27.70 that plugs directly into the power point without the cord

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  7. #22
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    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RCD-Eart...154756-20017-0

    Nixon are a reputable Australian company and I've bought many power points, light switches, industrial power points, cables, etc, etc from.

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  8. #23
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Cleaned up and dried out BS4 motor.
    Bearings seemed OK but I just happened to have a new spare set (same bearings as the WW Bandsaw blade guides) so installed those.

    The other thing I took the opportunity to address was the large " motor to saw" pivot/connector pin )P_.
    The old pin is about 8" long and 1/2" in diameter but the tube attached to the motor mount, through which this pin passed, had an ID of ~15.5 mm. The very loose fit meant when the motor was running it was moving/bouncing around and this vibe was transferred to the saw and blade.

    Anyway - turned up a new pin (P) for a much snugger fit and I also added a spring (S) between the motor mount and the saw to dampen the remaining vibe.
    The motor capacitor sits inside the short length of dirty white PVC and the clamp is holding a PVC cap in place with a smear of Silicone while it dries.

    The 1/2HP motor is from a Woodfast lathe - it has one run/start cap and no centrifugal switch

    MWBSpivot.JPG

    All good now - but for how long?

  9. #24
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    Hi Bob, Guys,

    Good to hear that you have got the motor sorted . Water and electricity don't make good bedfellows ! As long as there is no winding damage you are good to go.

    Fine on sorting the hinge pin, too small is not good. When I refurbished mine, I turned a plastic spacer with a 5 thou lip that was a press fit into the hinge pin bore on one side. That took out the play and was a good press fit in the hole and on the pin, the other end of the pin was in a brand new casting and was a good fit on the pin. I think that a spot of lubrication on those pivot points is a good idea.

    27-09-2019-005.jpg
    You can see the spacer at the right hand side of the hinge pin.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #25
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Bob, Guys,

    Good to hear that you have got the motor sorted . Water and electricity don't make good bedfellows ! As long as there is no winding damage you are good to go.

    Fine on sorting the hinge pin, too small is not good. When I refurbished mine, I turned a plastic spacer with a 5 thou lip that was a press fit into the hinge pin bore on one side. That took out the play and was a good press fit in the hole and on the pin, the other end of the pin was in a brand new casting and was a good fit on the pin. I think that a spot of lubrication on those pivot points is a good idea.

    27-09-2019-005.jpg
    You can see the spacer at the right hand side of the hinge pin.
    Wow yours looks so clean - mine has never looked that good.

    Anyway its a different hinge pin.

    Yours is the one referred to by the red X on the pic below.
    Mine is a hinge on top of the main arm - see red arrow.

    I just realised mine must have been modified (before I bought it - it did not have the orogibnakl motor) because instead of bolts (see red arrow) holding the motor plate on at that point there is a hinge on a plate that the motor pivots on

    Motorpivot.JPG

  11. #26
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    Hi Bob,

    Ahh I was looking at the wrong bit !

    On mine I replaced the whole motor mounting plate, pivot pin the lot.

    23-08-2019-001.jpg 23-08-2019-002.jpg 23-08-2019-003.jpg

    This is the new motor mounting plate. On mine there are grub screws that nip the hinge pin.

    Thanks for the compliment. Those pictures were taken during the refurbishment It isn't that clean now
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #27
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    This thread reminds me that I have to replace our earth leakage breaker...

    For a few years now ours has been tripping at random, very infrequent and cant pin a it to a faulty appliance.

    I had been noting that it didnt want to reset every time even when toaster or Coffee machine or other suspect appliances were unplugged. It could take many tries b4 it reset. I have even removed the GPO's to check for anything wrong.

    Then one day I watched as my wife turned off all breakers reset the RCD....it reset 1st time???

    from then on I have had many more requirements to reset it and and have tried while breakers are on, but no go...switch breakers off and it resets...this has me baffled so I think I will replace it to at least get it out of the equation.....

    but I might do that next time...lol...it must have a few years left in it

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    This thread reminds me that I have to replace our earth leakage breaker...

    For a few years now ours has been tripping at random, very infrequent and cant pin a it to a faulty appliance.

    I had been noting that it didnt want to reset every time even when toaster or Coffee machine or other suspect appliances were unplugged. It could take many tries b4 it reset. I have even removed the GPO's to check for anything wrong.

    Then one day I watched as my wife turned off all breakers reset the RCD....it reset 1st time???

    from then on I have had many more requirements to reset it and and have tried while breakers are on, but no go...switch breakers off and it resets...this has me baffled so I think I will replace it to at least get it out of the equation.....

    but I might do that next time...lol...it must have a few years left in it

    Have you checked for any items connected but not in a visible GPO, think range hood, ceiling fans, sensor lights, etc
    If there is a fault in the line with earth / neutral leakage then ANY appliance drawing load can cause a trip.

    Could even be water in a junction box or light fitting.
    Just because the item is turned off does not exclude it from fault finding as many items are single pole switched only.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    Have you checked for any items connected but not in a visible GPO, think range hood, ceiling fans, sensor lights, etc
    If there is a fault in the line with earth / neutral leakage then ANY appliance drawing load can cause a trip.

    Could even be water in a junction box or light fitting.
    Just because the item is turned off does not exclude it from fault finding as many items are single pole switched only.
    Yep. every thing has been checked in that way. I am suspecting a faulty Earth Leakage as it resets first time when all circuits have been switched off. When they are on its takes for ages to reset 20- 30 tries.

  15. #30
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    Hi Richard, Guys,

    The fact that the device doesn't want to reset unless you turn off the breakers tends to suggest that there is enough current flowing to prevent it resetting !

    Do all the breakers have to be opened or just a particular one ? If its all the breakers then I would be looking for something common to them.

    I agree with Droog !
    If there is a fault in the line with earth / neutral leakage then ANY appliance drawing load can cause a trip.
    It doesn't have to be an appliance, leakage across a cable join could be a suspect ! Even on the live side of the breakers.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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