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  1. #16
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Mine will easily spin all the way on, so that might be a factor in its willingness to unscrew itself.
    Yep - that was the issue with a biggish Chinese lathe at work. Had to be careful with the brake - but it also had Chuck lock.

  2. #17
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    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    I keep thinking I should make some sort of draw-bar style retainer for my 4 jaw. More often than not I don’t need the stock to go into the bore of the 4 jaw chuck. I only occasionally need the bore of the 4 jaw when I’m turning long square stock.
    Chris

  3. #18
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    May 2020
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    Willowbank QLD
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    Danshell

    I have a connon motor VFD and I am wearing through the stop pad on the unit. I was thinking of seeing if I could buy a new pad. Now I have seen your setup that is what I want. Would you be able to post here or send the circuit diagram and such as a how to. I allready have the same tacho set up. My 11x24 lathe has forward and reverse with no screw on chuck.

    Thanks

    Steve

  4. #19
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I keep thinking I should make some sort of draw-bar style retainer for my 4 jaw. More often than not I don’t need the stock to go into the bore of the 4 jaw chuck. I only occasionally need the bore of the 4 jaw when I’m turning long square stock.
    https://metalworkforums.com/f189/t19...drawbar-hercus

  5. #20
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    Sep 2008
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    Riddells Creek, Vic.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reidy41 View Post
    Danshell

    I have a connon motor VFD and I am wearing through the stop pad on the unit. I was thinking of seeing if I could buy a new pad. Now I have seen your setup that is what I want. Would you be able to post here or send the circuit diagram and such as a how to. I allready have the same tacho set up. My 11x24 lathe has forward and reverse with no screw on chuck.

    Thanks

    Steve
    I would also be interested in seeing the circuit diagram as your panel is "similar" to what I built for my milling machine years ago but needs a bit of an upgrade now.

    Lex.

  6. #21
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    Oct 2019
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    No problems Steve and Lex. I’m at work tonight but tomorrow I’ll post up the info so if anyone else wants to do a similar thing they can see it also.

  7. #22
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    Here are the instructions to do what I did to my Lathes remote panel.

    A few little disclaimers.....I was helped out by a gentleman online with these instructions (although I have edited them to show what I did exactly) the diagram he drew said on it not to distribute or post online, he afterwards told me to use them to help others when requested. However the diagram and instructions are now altered to show what I ended up doing, they are not the actual ones I was given.
    Also, do this at your own risk. All of this worked for me with no problems but thats not say you wont have issues, so use this guide with caution.
    And finally, I do not not know the legalities of wiring a VFD for remote switches in Australia. Even though the remote switching is low voltage, you are placing wires in an area that has high voltage wiring nearby, so again, do so at your own risk or get a qualified electrician to do it. Obviously I unplugged all power from the VFD before proceeding with any wiring!!

    WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE LOW VOLTAGE REMOTE SWITCHES

    wiringdiagram.jpg

    PHOTO OF MY REMOTE PANEL AGAIN FOR REFERENCE

    IMG_4550.jpg

    The main power ON/OFF switch that is lit up in the photo is switching the 240v AC so I can not show a wiring diagram for this. This is a job for a qualified electrician The reason I did this is so I can leave the Lathe plugged in at the power point and switched on and I can control it at the main panel.

    I am going to supply links to what I bought in regards to the hardware, but please note I am a tight so I buy things on ebay and sometimes from China. Postage took forever in some cases as you can imagine atm but thats the price a cheapskate like me has to pay!

    240v Green ON/OFF Switch with light
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/22mm-Ill...A/223044624237

    Emergency Stop Button (PLEASE NOTE THE Normally Open or Normally closed configuration as per wiring diagram)
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Emergenc...e/273615978725

    Green and Red Forward/Stop/Reverse and black Jog Momentary switches (PLEASE NOTE THE Normally Open or Normally closed configuration as per wiring diagram)
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/22mm-Pus...N/132779231926

    Digital Tacho
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Red-4-Di...U/174352016181

    Shielded Wire
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SHIELDED...N/114160435032

    10K Potentiometer
    https://www.jaycar.com.au/10k-ohm-li...meter/p/RP7510

    Potentiometer Dial
    https://www.jaycar.com.au/numbered-k...-1-10/p/HK7549

    Mini Breaking Switch (again please note to the on/on configuration)
    https://www.jaycar.com.au/spdt-minia...r-tag/p/ST0335

    Once wired, here is how I programmed it all. This works for the Folin BD600 Series VFD but it may help others that use other VFD's??

    When I was programming it I had some difficulties getting it to bring up the parameters required in the case of the forward/stop/reverse switches. I had to factory reset a couple of times and in the end I think I may have done them first and the terminal control operation after those, or perhaps it was the other way around......arrgh....but anyway you will figure it out, just try one way and if that doesnt work go the other way!!

    Screen Shot 2020-09-16 at 9.58.05 am.png

    Screen Shot 2020-09-16 at 9.57.51 am.png

    Now the gent that helped me with this also recommended I do this learning thing outlined below. I have not done it yet. The electrician at work said its not needed but doesnt hurt either way, so again choices are all yours.

    Screen Shot 2020-09-16 at 9.58.25 am.png

    Please note these are the parameters I gave my motor. Some of you may not want to run your motor up to 75hz, so please do your own research and or call your supplier and ask.

    Now just a quick explanation as to how to actually program these figures into the VFD..........here is an example for the Reverse/Stop/Forward functions,,,

    Press "PRGM" > use arrows to go to F05
    Press "FUNC" > keep at F05.00
    Press "FUNC" > Leave 1 at 1
    Press "FUNC" > Press "PRGM" twice to go out

    ---------------------

    Press "PRGM" > use arrows to go to F05
    Press "FUNC" > use arrows to go to F05.01
    Press "FUNC" > Change 4 to 3 (4 should be the default display)
    Press "FUNC" > Press "PRGM" twice to go out

    ---------------------

    Press "PRGM" > use arrows to go to F05
    Press "FUNC" > use arrows to go to F05.02
    Press "FUNC" > Change 9 to 2 (9 should be the default display)
    Press "FUNC" > Press "PRGM" twice to go out

    That is a basic tutorial. As you get into programming your VFD you will see that it is quite simple and when doing repetative steps some of the steps I have described above are skipped....you'll understand when you start messing with it.

    I hope that helps and if you have any issues yell out and Ill see if I can help. I am not an expert at all. I am simply a person like you, who asked for help, received it and now I am passing on the knowledge that i was given.

  8. #23
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    Whoops, I forgot the wiring diagram for the digital tacho.

    Here is a screen grab from a youtube video I watched that helped me to wire mine up.

    https://youtu.be/j59UjV0-ptE

    Screen Shot 2020-09-16 at 11.22.41 am.png


    The only thing I will mention is that high voltage wiring interfered with the tacho wiring and made it very erratic. I had to shield the tacho wiring to get it to work properly. Took me bloody hours of stuffing around with it before I realised what was causing the problem.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Cairns, Qld.
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    Default VFD Panel - South Bend

    Hello Danshell & other responders to this thread. I'm rebuilding a Sheraton 9C lathe lately as a shed project. This machine is pretty much a copy of a basic South Bend 9 lathe as I understand it. It won't be my primary machine.
    I'm right now at the point of working on the antiquated - looking reduction drive assembly, i.e. the heavy cast-iron mount, yoke & pulleys, plus the need for a new single phase motor of 0.55 Kw. or less, which is going to cost about $200 locally anyway.
    Would you care to share the type, size & manufacturers of the VFD & 3-phase drive motor that you used? I note that your supplier is in Melbourne. I'd no doubt look for a supplier closer to me in FNQ.
    I guess the main question at the end of it all is, "Is it worth it" ??

    Many thanks....
    H614

  10. #25
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by danshell View Post
    Whoops, I forgot the wiring diagram for the digital tacho.

    Here is a screen grab from a youtube video I watched that helped me to wire mine up.

    https://youtu.be/j59UjV0-ptE

    Screen Shot 2020-09-16 at 11.22.41 am.png


    The only thing I will mention is that high voltage wiring interfered with the tacho wiring and made it very erratic. I had to shield the tacho wiring to get it to work properly. Took me bloody hours of stuffing around with it before I realised what was causing the problem.
    What are you powering the tacho with?

  11. #26
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by Halifax614 View Post
    Hello Danshell & other responders to this thread. I'm rebuilding a Sheraton 9C lathe lately as a shed project. This machine is pretty much a copy of a basic South Bend 9 lathe as I understand it. It won't be my primary machine.
    I'm right now at the point of working on the antiquated - looking reduction drive assembly, i.e. the heavy cast-iron mount, yoke & pulleys, plus the need for a new single phase motor of 0.55 Kw. or less, which is going to cost about $200 locally anyway.
    Would you care to share the type, size & manufacturers of the VFD & 3-phase drive motor that you used? I note that your supplier is in Melbourne. I'd no doubt look for a supplier closer to me in FNQ.
    I guess the main question at the end of it all is, "Is it worth it" ??

    Many thanks....
    H614
    Hi H614,

    If you have a browse around your local scrap yard you probably be able to find a suitable motor. If you do check that the scrappy will take it back and let you pick another one if its bad. I tend to go for sized up shower pump motors. Usually its only the hot side pump that is sized up and the motor is OK. However I'm told that shower pumps are quite rare in AU. Which is a pity because almost all the ones I've picked up are around 1/2 Hp, 660 to 700 watts.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Halifax614 View Post
    Hello Danshell & other responders to this thread. I'm rebuilding a Sheraton 9C lathe lately as a shed project. This machine is pretty much a copy of a basic South Bend 9 lathe as I understand it. It won't be my primary machine.
    I'm right now at the point of working on the antiquated - looking reduction drive assembly, i.e. the heavy cast-iron mount, yoke & pulleys, plus the need for a new single phase motor of 0.55 Kw. or less, which is going to cost about $200 locally anyway.
    Would you care to share the type, size & manufacturers of the VFD & 3-phase drive motor that you used? I note that your supplier is in Melbourne. I'd no doubt look for a supplier closer to me in FNQ.
    I guess the main question at the end of it all is, "Is it worth it" ??

    Many thanks....
    H614
    The VFD and Motor as you know was purchased from Conon Motor in Vic, their shipping is fast and very reasonable (for the most part it is included in the purchase price). The VFD is branded Home_ZHEJIANG NEW FOLINN ELECTRIC CO.,LTD it is the BD600 series.
    I have a photo of the plate on the motor that gives you the manufacturer and specs of that. The VFD is rated to for use on the motors HP rating.

    Is it worth it? Well for me it was. The whole set up, including the remote panel switches cost less than $400 and of course it makes the old cone pulley and step up pulley redundant as I can control the speed electronically. It can be done for half that price if you shop around on ebay. I paid a premium as I wanted to make sure the VFD and motor were compatible and it came from a reputable importer.

    I have a little shaper here that I am about to start restoring and I may do that one on the cheap and see how it compares.

    IMG_4560.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    What are you powering the tacho with?
    Hi Bob The VFD has a 24VDC outlet.

  13. #28
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by danshell View Post
    Hi Bob The VFD has a 24VDC outlet.
    Thanks. It's interesting that the VFD should upset the Tacho. I have 4 such tachos on machines in my shed, 3 are powered via VFDs and one by a simple 12V wall wart adapter and have no problems.

    How far away is the VFD from the tacho?

    I've had VFD noise issues with auxiliary electronics (Arduino micro processors) on my coffee machine and on my pressure monitoring system (PMS) on my dust collector. The coffee machine issue ws sort of sorted but still have probs with the PMS.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Thanks. It's interesting that the VFD should upset the Tacho. I have 4 such tachos on machines in my shed, 3 are powered via VFDs and one by a simple 12V wall wart adapter and have no problems.

    How far away is the VFD from the tacho?

    I've had VFD noise issues with auxiliary electronics (Arduino micro processors) on my coffee machine and on my pressure monitoring system (PMS) on my dust collector. The coffee machine issue ws sort of sorted but still have probs with the PMS.
    The VFD was right near the tacho when I first got it and tried to wire it up. It is under the bench now so I dont have an issue but when it was near it, it would make the display blink and show odd figures!!

  15. #30
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    Cairns, Qld.
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    Default VFD panel

    Hi Danshell & Baron J. Many thanks for the responses.
    I had a look at Conon's website; very interesting! The 0.55Kw 3 ph.motor that you show & the BD600 VFD to drive it (F1-H100S20007BXO, is that correct??) are a not unreasonable price, bearing Danshell's comment about the certainty of them working together.
    Would you be able to photograph the new motor & belt drive, & VFD main box installation on your SB lathe & post them here?
    Perhaps I should stop further work on the original step-down arrangements until I've weighed this up further?

    Rgds. H614

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