Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 33
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Insulated crimp terminals

    Does anyone have a recommendation for decent midrange-quality insulated crimp terminals in an assorted pack that can be ordered online?

    With terminals I've found a lot of them lately have really hard insulation. They are horrible to use so looking for some that have a softer insulation. Looking at them physically you can usually tell as the hard ones have quite shiny insulation with a bit of gloss. Hard to tell online though.
    In the past brand name automotive ones like Narva were reasonable, but lately I've had some of those that were also very hard too. I object to paying extra for a brand name and getting low end quality. Utilux are nice but I can't see an assorted box that I wouldn't have to donate both kidneys for...

    Looking for something like this assortment but happy to pay a bit more for something I know is decent: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric...EAAOSwk5FUs7Gj

    Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    How about bare crimps and them heat shrink over them, much neater job.
    Using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,542

    Default

    We use the Cabac ones at work...

    Michael

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default

    [QUOTE=Michael G;1972414]We use the Cabac ones at work...

    Michael[/QUOT

    whats wrong with the competitors gear...lol

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default

    You can get the softer shields but you need a different crimp tool. You feed the shield onto the wire first...then crimp your spade then slide shield down over
    But these are slowly disappearing. I got my last lot online.

    But as Micheal says I also use Cabac...but I had to pay for mine.lol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,542

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    We use the Cabac ones at work...

    Michael
    whats wrong the competitors gear...lol
    (Eskimo has picked up on the fact that I work for a sister company to CABAC )

    Despite the fact that we get them for a better than retail price, the guys in the office who do amateur radio and other (non-work) electrical tasks do like them and use them. Apparently there is even a type that is basically a terminal with a heatshrink sleeve on it, so you crimp on and then shrink the sleeve down for a better fit.

    Michael

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Thanks guys. I've also used Cabac ones but had forgotten about them.

    Dave J - I've got a few non-insulated terminals here and do exactly that if space is an issue or I really need a neat job. Most of the time though I just need a terminal on the wire and space isn't an issue so I don't want to be messing around with heat shrink and changing the crimp dies etc.

    Steve

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    Just a word of warning if you’re using them on AC applications..
    Check the rated voltage from the manufacturers data sheet.
    The reputable ones will generally be rated at 600VAC, some of the less reputable brands vary somewhat from 600VAC to 30VDC.
    We had a ‘thermal event’ at work about three months ago that did a lot of damage to an Epiroc Boomer rock drill that was traced back to the insulation on a control circuit lug breaking down with heat and coming into contact with another piece that slewed. When the packet of lugs came out of the cupboard they were found to be ‘automotive use’, not rated for the 400V circuit they were part of. They were also found to be crimped with a staking type tool, not a ratcheting form crimper.

    Have a look at the Ashdown Ingrams website, they should have something.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    Just a word of warning if you’re using them on AC applications..
    Check the rated voltage from the manufacturers data sheet.
    The reputable ones will generally be rated at 600VAC, some of the less reputable brands vary somewhat from 600VAC to 30VDC.
    We had a ‘thermal event’ at work about three months ago that did a lot of damage to an Epiroc Boomer rock drill that was traced back to the insulation on a control circuit lug breaking down with heat and coming into contact with another piece that slewed. When the packet of lugs came out of the cupboard they were found to be ‘automotive use’, not rated for the 400V circuit they were part of. They were also found to be crimped with a staking type tool, not a ratcheting form crimper.

    Have a look at the Ashdown Ingrams website, they should have something.
    yep the use of the proper crimp tool is a necessity if reliability of the joint is required.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    I'm no sparky, but in my view its all about the quality of the connection for anything I touch. I won't have anything to do with those stupid "squash it like snake on the road" crimpers that come with cheap automotive crimp sets - any I've ended up with in my hand go straight in the bin.
    I've even taken to using bootlace ferrules for the normal clamping type connections in plugs etc.
    Anyway, soapbox aside....

    Pretty sure Ashdowns terminals are just automotive use. I can't find an actual spec in their catalogue, and they won't let me register for online ordering unless I've got an ABN
    There's a branch not far from me, I'm just trying to avoid going out in the current climate....
    I've been happy with their gear though and I personally wouldn't have an issue using the terminals for anything I'm likely to encounter at home.

    Steve

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    I've even taken to using bootlace ferrules for the normal clamping type connections in plugs etc.
    I love bootlace ferrules for electronics, but I'm not sure they are approved for the types of connectors you describe. Some mains connectors work on the principle that when the clamping surfaces bear down on the wires they squash them flat which increases the contact area. A bootlace ferrule could interfere with that process. I've seen circuit breakers where the instructions specifically prohibit twisting the wires so the individual strands of wire flatten out and maximise contact area.
    Chris

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,105

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    How about bare crimps and them heat shrink over them, much neater job.
    Yeah I prefer the non insulated terminal with heat shrink as well. Sometimes will even label the end of the wire and slide clear heat shrink over the label. Much more professional look than those red blue yellow connectors.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Bootlace ferrules are required here in the UK for multi stranded wire terminations. The idea is that it prevents the strands getting splayed out and weakening the connection compromising the current carrying capacity. Soldered twisted strands are also banned for reasons previously discussed.

    The note about voltage ratings for insulated push on connectors is important ! Just look at the number of Chinese DC motors that Have failed because the push on connectors have overheated and damaged the brush holders.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    Yeah I prefer the non insulated terminal with heat shrink as well. Sometimes will even label the end of the wire and slide clear heat shrink over the label. Much more professional look than those red blue yellow connectors.
    Now that's a great idea I can use on my current project, I have been looking for labeling and those professional labelers are expensive. On guy on eBay had a bunch of numbers all consecutive for sale, but this idea is better as you choose whatever.

    On my Chinese mill and I think my lathe have white covers on the ends with texta markings hand drawn on them.
    Printed numbers and letters would look so much more professional and wouldn't rub off, thanks heaps for the tip, something I should have thought of myself.
    Using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Bootlace ferrules are required here in the UK for multi stranded wire terminations.
    Well there you go. Are the terminals shaped to take a round ferrule, or are they flat like ours?
    Chris

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •