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  1. #16
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Insulated crimp terminals

    BaronJ - I’m blaming you for this...
    You just had to mention terminals not coping and motor failures:



    Went in for dinner tonight and when I came back out the internet radio wasn’t connecting to the wireless. Long story short, tracked the issue down to this cap lead on the compressor.

    Steve

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Well there you go. Are the terminals shaped to take a round ferrule, or are they flat like ours?
    Hi Chris,

    Usually a round hole with a clamp screw, though a lot of the higher rated ones like on cookers and some VFD's are flat clamp plates with turned up corners so the bootlace cannot be pushed out and has to be compressed.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #18
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    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    BaronJ - I’m blaming you for this...
    You just had to mention terminals not coping and motor failures:



    Went in for dinner tonight and when I came back out the internet radio wasn’t connecting to the wireless. Long story short, tracked the issue down to this cap lead on the compressor.

    Steve
    Ooo ! Not guilty your Honour
    Can I plead the fifth ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #19
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    The reputable ones will generally be rated at 600VAC, some of the less reputable brands vary somewhat from 600VAC to 30VDC.
    AC and DC ratings even for quality switches can be quite different.
    I've seen switches with AC/DC ratio ratings from 1:1 to about 20:1 with prices often in proportion.
    Most 250V rated switches (even some decent quality ones) have AC/DC ratio ratings between 5 and 10 to 1, so a 250VAC/24VDC switch is fairly common.

  5. #20
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    Jul 2006
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    Athelstone, SA 5076
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    bootlace ferrules are being used in most airconditioning units these days...both low and hi voltage.

  6. #21
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    Jul 2006
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    Athelstone, SA 5076
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Printed numbers and letters would look so much more professional and wouldn't rub off, thanks heaps for the tip, something I should have thought of myself.
    cable markers are available from most electrical places.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I've seen switches with AC/DC ratio ratings from 1:1 to about 20:1 with prices often in proportion.
    It's not surprising that solar panel isolators commonly fail, given the high DC voltage and currents they have to carry.
    Chris

  8. #23
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    It's not surprising that solar panel isolators commonly fail, given the high DC voltage and currents they have to carry.
    We have an Enphase system that uses micro-inverters on every panel. This means we have 240V AC thru cables on the roof as opposed to high VDC back to a single inverter.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Insulated crimp terminals

    Decided to buy a mixed box from ebay to use for low current/voltage non-critical jobs and testing, and keep the decent brand name terminals for use on real stuff.

    So I grabbed one of these boxes as it had most of the types I needed https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400-pc-A...x/112212276904

    Thought you might be interested in the difference between a branded (Narva) terminal and the equivalent size that came in that mixed box:
    Narva at the top, cheapie at the bottom of photo




    Narva:
    Thickness of ring material: 0.75mm
    Thickness of insulation: 0.9mm

    Cheapie:
    Thickness of ring material: 0.5mm
    Thickness of insulation: 0.7mm







    Steve

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Steve,

    The ones at the bottom are automotive ones ! Touch the insulation with a soldering iron.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    melbourne
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    473

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    I found these inside a carpet cleaner yesterday... 20200807_201705.jpg

    I found the insulation a bit later...
    (yes, it tripped the cb. And I had to completely dismantle the thing to get to it)

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
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    1,322

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    Seeing as we're talking all things crimping, I don't crimp these kind of terminations often, but when I do, I'm always unsure of which way around I should be using my ratcheting crimper, as the anvil has two distinct jaws, one with a bigger void than the other. I assume the bigger jaw is meant to smoosh the plastic sleeve onto cable's insulation, while the tighter jaw is doing the actual electrical crimp through the plastic sleeve, onto the metal of the terminal and the copper of the exposed cable. Do I have this the right way around?

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    Yes, you have the crimper the correct way round. I use either a Crescent, or PressMaster tool at both home and work, both have directional dies, the side that forms the plastic creates a lead in that is intended to provide a degree of flexibility whilst maintaining mechanical protection.

    Pretty evident when you stack Chinese cheapies up against Name brand gear that there really is no comparison. Personally, I don’t use insulated lugs unless I have no other option. My preferred means of connections is with a Deutsche Connector.

  14. #29
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    ...

    ...My preferred means of connections is with a Deutsche Connector.
    Coincidentally I've been looking at options for connectors on my landrover ute project. Apart from the original connectors being rubber plugs with bullet connectors its an '85 model so needs a complete rewire.

    It had come down to either Deutsche or the typical "waterproof" style connectors like these:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10X2-Way...V/392863613594

    Having another look just now I noticed the major difference (apart from price) is in the actual pins at the cable entry end. Deutsch is a complete tube, whereas the "waterproof" auto plugs are the couple of small tabs that lock down onto the insulation.

    Now that I've decided to use Deutsch .... any recommendations on crimp tools etc?
    The DT range of plugs will do 99% of what I need and since I have nothing currently I'm thinking about something like this kit to get me started: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-...0/323947365215
    Any thoughts?

    Steve

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    This kit might be better value as you get more connectors. Not sure if genuine or not though.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Deutsch-...frcectupt=true

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