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17th Mar 2020, 09:22 PM #16Most Valued Member
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hahah. No it isn't. Its just I sent my ph number to Ray and asked that he send me a reminder txt on the weekend as I didn't think I'd be able to have a look until then.
As it happened I was able to have a look this arvo.
Under the cap cover was, as expected a large capacitor.
Unfortunately the foam that had been around it to stop it moving had deteriorated with age and was in the process of turning into a sticky, gooey mess, with the result that part of the label on the cap is unreadable.
I've left the pics of the cap at a fairly large file size just in case someone can enhance it but I don't like their chances.
It appears that I'm not the only thing falling apart with age
motor.jpgcap 001.jpg cap 002.jpg
peter
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18th Mar 2020, 01:28 AM #17
Hi Peter,
From looking at your pictures, it says "Z1? 3.24 MFD", then underneath "110 - 230 VAC 60 C"
I think that its a period between the 3 and 24 for the capacitance. 3.24 seems a little low but not too unreasonable. The voltage rating is basically 230 volts AC at a temperature of 60 Centigrade. The rest is easy to read.
They look like nice motors, by the way I would paint over the terminal box cover and refit it with the label inside or remove the label. Maybe someone’s idea of a prank.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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18th Mar 2020, 08:07 AM #18Most Valued Member
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My other half (who has a better eye for this sort of stuff) had a look and she reckoned it was a Z1 as well. Followed by possibly a 6. Neither of us picked up on the period between the 3 and 2.
Yeah I'll remove the 3 phase label from the terminal box. The motor is quite heavy for it's rated output.
peter
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18th Mar 2020, 12:21 PM #19Most Valued Member
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single ph and has a something XXX-324mfd capacitor...not 3.24....which would be way to small for a start capacitor on a motor of that size
edit..if you look at the parts list in one of the links above it says its a 270-324mfd capacitor
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20th Mar 2020, 09:38 PM #20Intermediate Member
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I think Eskimo may be correct - I think I can make out 270-324. If that is the correct code, these sites maybe of assistance.
Baldor EC1270A02SP Starting Capacitor 270-324UF 125VAC
BALDOR EC1270A02 Starting Capacitor
SCAP125-270-324 270-324uF 125V Pins
https://irrigationdirect.com.au/prod...MaAuZcEALw_wcB
Good luck,
Bob
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21st Mar 2020, 01:50 AM #21
Hi Bob, Guys,
The cap shown in the picture is definitely marked 110-230 Volt, and the code on it is E51300.
The capacitance value could be either 3.24 uf or 324 uf. One seems too low and the other a bit on the high side.
32 uf seems more reasonable for a motor of that size. I've not found anything with that code number.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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21st Mar 2020, 07:42 AM #22Intermediate Member
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Baldor Start & Run Capacitors
Baldor Start & Run Capacitors, Original OEM Replacement Parts
Baldor EC1270A02SP Starting Capacitor 270-324UF 125VAC
$25.00
$23.00
This cap appears to be a 'modern' replacement using a 'plastic' case rather than the original aluminium case.
(result of Google search "baldor 51300 capacitor")
BobLast edited by Oldgreybeard; 21st Mar 2020 at 07:52 AM. Reason: added googlr search criteria
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4th Apr 2020, 10:17 AM #23New Member
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Its a US voltage motor
My guess is that is a US voltage motor, but it is specially wound for US single phase 115V or US 3 phase 208V.
I'd say the 4 pole windings are specifically manufactured so that it can be converted from 1 to 3 phase US by connecting the wires as shown according to the motor nameplate. You don’t see this very much at all.
I don’t know about the connection box nameplate though, its data throws a spanner in the works.
The US doesn’t have a single source of voltage supply as we do here.
They have single phase 120 v, which can also be supplied as 2 phase 240V, 180 degrees out of phase. There's also areas with 110V single phase.
With respect to the 120V is also 208V 3 phase, or should I say from the 208V 3 phase is generated 120V single phase. to neutral.
They also have higher voltages generated differently for 3 phase only.
It may have the high insulation properties so that it can be used with higher voltages according to the connection box data.
In this case It doesn’t necessarily need a capacitor to start the motor on single phase. There's already an inductance there with the redundant 3 phase windings which should give it a "push" (or pull) out of phase, to start. It then may have an centripetal cut out for these windings, perhaps. I'm starting to suppose here.
Baldor are know for their speciality motor setups.
If you want to use it according to the motor nameplate, it wont work in Australia, as we don't have these voltages, single and 3 phase, so its a no-go.
If you want to use it according to the connection box nameplate, it should work only on 415V 3 phase.
But I'd be standing by ready to pull the plug a few seconds after starting it.
Shane,
Brisbane
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5th Apr 2020, 01:41 AM #24Senior Member
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DO Not Connect it to 3 phase power.....
Dont go by what is printed on the connection plate as these can be misplaced and replaced with another from a different motor. This was determined to probably be the case in a previous post.
To determine the details on a motor and particularly a Baldor you search on the serial and part number that is stamped on the motor plate which is riveted onto the frame to prevent confusion as can occur when connection plates are changed erroneously.
From the part number on the motor plate it is a single phase multi voltage motor. Not a 3 phase motor. Read the previously attached date sheets from Baldor.
The idea of dual voltage is so the equipment to which it is fitted can be installed in different countries with different voltage supplies. eg USA and Australia.
I've worked for the last 30 years for a multinational manufacturing company as a senior electrical technician and this type of motor is common. Baldor do make a wide variety of specialty motors but this one isn't that special.
Shane is partly correct in the US voltages but the 208v 3 phase he mentions is actually 240v 2 phase where the "3rd" phase is a neutral and this is mainly a domestic supply system for large loads like water heaters and cooking ranges.
If you are going to connect it up to 3 phase I would be getting Shane to plug it in as I wouldnt go near it.
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5th Apr 2020, 09:33 AM #25Most Valued Member
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5th Apr 2020, 11:45 AM #26Senior Member
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Ive never seen a 2 phase motor except for stepper motors but they are a different thing. Baldor don't make any 2 phase general purpose motors but they do make 1 phase motors marked L1 and L2 for the power supply. For Australia that is L1 for 240v line and L2 is the neutral line. A 230v motor is fine to run on our 240v supply.
in 99.99% of cases if it has a capacitor fitted its a single phase motor.
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5th Apr 2020, 03:09 PM #27New Member
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Sparksy is safer " do not connect to 415 3 phase!
Although given the data on both plates (assuming correct) yes I would have tried it on 415, at the risk of losing the motor.
The US 208V 3 phase is actually what i said,
The US has in fact 2 totally differently generated 120V supplies.
The domestic 120V is 120V to neutral, from the same transformer you can also have phase shifted by 180 deg to get 240V for their heavy domestic loads. We here sometimes call this split phase (480V) for our supply and distribution only and the same term is incorrect for what’s called "split phase motors", but this too can be a misnomer.
The commercial 120 V is different to the 180 deg "split phase"
It is actually a three phase generated phase to neutral (centre tap star (wye)) voltage, with phase to phase being 208V.
https://ctlsys.com/support/electrica..._and_voltages/
Eskimo, I have seen here 2 phase motors for the fans on big 350A welders, cooling fans on A/C plant as well used 2 phase motors. These are 415 V motors run off 120 deg shifted 2 phases and they work fine, as the end result is a sine wave anyway.
And be safe, as Sparksy said, I'll connect it for you!
Shane
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5th Apr 2020, 07:59 PM #28Most Valued Member
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This particular motor was originally running on 240v single phase. I never knew what the equipment was but I seem to remember (this has been in my shed for some time now) when I first got it out of the skip, it was wired into a switch (which was busted after being dropped into the skip) then a single phase 240V plug. I remember cutting the cable to get it out. (I think that was this one.) This was back when I was still agile enough to climb into, and more importantly, back out of the big skip at work. These days if I can't retrieve something from outside, it stays there.
thanks for all the replies.
peter
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