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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
    Posts
    401

    Default How to : Replacing a Lathe fwd/rev switch - HZ5B-10/2 D009

    Figured I would post this as a bit of a "how to" as information seems pretty scarce and I had to hunt around for a while.

    While the information posted will be about how I replaced the switch on MY lathe it will likely apply to most similar lathe's.

    The switch itself is a HZ5B-10/2 D009
    I did not have much luck google searching this number or trying to find it for sale anywhere, I could find HZ5B-10/2 switches easily but not in the D009 variant. The variant defines what the switch does in each position




    I ended up messaging an AliExpress seller who was able to supply the D009 variant, for those looking this is the store, just message them and ask if they are able to supply the HZ5B-10/2 D009 if you are looking for one. The postage for me was quick, ordered 23rd August, arrived 2nd September.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HZ5B...371920825.html

    My Lathe is a Hafco AL330A, basically a home workshop sized geared head lathe. The one pictured below is not a picture of mine but it's the same model, the red circle is where the forward / reverse switch itself is. The Orange circle is where the shaft locking collar is located.



    First step is removing the orange locking collar, with the lathe turned off and unplugged, move the lever to the up position. On mine there was an Alley key grub screw and also a roll pin. The roll pin needs to be removed completely however the grub screw can just be loosened. With the collar loose slide it up the shaft a little then move the shaft to the right to pull it out of the switch. I found it easiest to move the lever up and down a little and the shaft slid with ease.

    Now that you have the shaft out of the way its time to remove the switch itself, there is a single SHCS holding the switch mount to the lathe bed. Remove this SHCS, the switch should now just be attached by the wires. Remove the 2 screws holding the cover over the switch mounting plate. Then remove the 4 small Phillips drive screws holding the switch to the switch mount.

    At this point its best to note down the wire configuration before removing all the wires.
    Mine is wired single phase 240v, I believe it may be wired differently for the Americans on 110v but should be easy to work out.
    I found on mine there was 3 control circuits that were all using a common ground. This meant that I had 1 x Brown wire with 2 x Red wires branching off it. My original switch was wired as
    1. Yellow
    2. Red / Brown
    3. White
    4. Red / Brown
    5. Red/ Brown
    6. Blue
    7. not used
    8. not used

    Referring to the product Brochure above you can see that 5&6 are connected when the switch is centered. When toggling the switch 1&2 will be connected one way and 3&4 when going the other way.
    This means that Yellow & white are my motor switch wires and Blue is my motor off wire. I did test to see if the lathe still worked without the blue wire connected and it did. I am not sure what purpose the Blue circuit served as the lathe still appeared to run like normal without it connected. I did connect it up just for the sake of completeness.

    Now its time to prep the new switch, if your original switch is an old one like mine you will find that while the part number remains the same, the switch is visually different.





    That's okay, we only need the switch barrel, take the other parts off



    I found that the mount plate was different, on the original it was molded as part of the body, the replacement was removable
    the original one was 45x45 with the replacement being 48.25x48.25
    The original had 3mm mount holes to mount to the switch mount plate, replacement was 4.5mm
    The replacement also had a border around it so it could recess the clear bit for if you used the red knob

    I could have modified the yellow plastic mount plate but figured if I had to spend the time to do it I would just make up a new plate. The plate I made ended up 4mm thick





    I found that I also had to cut about 5mm off the end of the square shaft or it fowled inside the shift rod.
    Last thing that you will need is a washer as the original switch has a raised bit out the square end, I found a washer in my bolts drawer that was about 1.8mm thick and it did the trick. It just needs to be a similar thickness to the original bit, needs to clear the shaft and fit inside the switch mount. This is actually used to stop the shift rod from having excessive play.

    It's now time to mount the switch back in the switch mount, you want the terminals facing up and down rather then forwards and backwards.

    Wiring wise some bits are interchangeable. I chose to use pins 7&8 instead of 5&6 as I could route my wires cleaner and they both do the same thing. Being that the three red / brown wires were all the same I choose to put them on the side. I think it was 1,3 & 7 from memory.
    The blue wire then goes to the matching pair of 5&6 / 7&8 depending on which set you decided to use. This would have been pin 8 in my case.
    The yellow and white wires are then your motor switch wires, in my case they go on pins 2 and 4. I found when I put Yellow on 2 and White on 4 the switch worked opposite what I expected. My lathe had always been lever up is forwards, lever down is reverse. I am not sure if this is the correct way or if there is even a wrong and right way, but as this is what I was used to, I wanted it to stay that way. This was an easy fix, swapping it so Yellow was on 4 and White was on 2 put everything to how I wanted it.

    Now its wired up mount the switch cover back on, put the switch on the end of the shift rod and mount the switch back on the lathe. Don't forget to put the collar back on the end of the shift rod, roll pin goes back in and tighten up the grub screw.

    You should now have a nice new switch on your lathe and you can get back to making swarf.

    Happy machining
    Wayne

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    texas, queensland
    Posts
    248

    Default

    i got my replacement switch from the toolex gasweld mob down near or in newcastle i think from memory .
    'If the enemy is in range, so are you.'

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    288

    Default

    Apologies for this 22-month old September 2016 thread dig, but I noticed it during the recent discussion of the Hafco AL-330A lathe.

    I had missed seeing this in 2016. My AL-330A reverse switch had gone too, but I had not done anything about it. I've just ordered the D009 variant switch from the Aliexpress merchant linked above, it's still there.

    Nice description that Masterspoon has given above on what to do to fix this issue -- thanks heaps for documenting it so thoroughly. This didn't really get any comment at the time, but it's the kind of thread that's very nice to have.

    We had better let it go back to sleep now.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    sandstone point queensland
    Age
    69
    Posts
    182

    Default changing al330 switch

    want to replace my switch also on my AL330 HAFCO lathe with the newer HZ5B-10 D008/2 SWITCH, ,and I wonder if anyone can help me? the wires on the existing switch are
    1 white
    2 red
    3 red
    4 blue
    5 black..........................
    6 brown 2,3 and 6 are linked with each other.
    attached is a photo of new switch, and old switch (still attached to lathe)have done the changes to the new switch so it fits ,just stumped on the wiring ,what wire number and color on the old switch goes to what number on the new switch
    .......thanks in advance

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
    Posts
    401

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by robyn2839 View Post
    want to replace my switch also on my AL330 HAFCO lathe with the newer HZ5B-10 D008/2 SWITCH, ,and I wonder if anyone can help me? the wires on the existing switch are
    1 white
    2 red
    3 red
    4 blue
    5 black..........................
    6 brown 2,3 and 6 are linked with each other.
    attached is a photo of new switch, and old switch (still attached to lathe)have done the changes to the new switch so it fits ,just stumped on the wiring ,what wire number and color on the old switch goes to what number on the new switch
    .......thanks in advance
    No photos showing on my end, guessing something went wrong with the link / upload

    Hoping that the D008 variant will work, from the spec sheet the differences are that the D009 has two sets connected when the switch is in the middle (off position) and one set for when turned to each side, where as the D008 variant has none connected in the middle and two sets connected for each side. I think the lathe still worked without the off position wire connected but just be careful as it might have been used to pull the solenoid low instead of just relying on cutting the energizing power. This means that it may be more prone to a failure where the lathe wouldn't turn off when returning to the centre if something went wrong or if you have a poor ground connection.

    That said I think this should work if your original was a D009 and your replacing it with a D008
    1. white - motor forwards
    2. red - ground
    3. not used
    4.brown - ground
    5.blue - motor reverse
    6.red - ground
    7. not used
    8.black - motor off

    If the lever direction is wrong swap 5.blue and 1.white

    The barrel is effectively 4 switches ganged together, so if it makes wiring easy you can change them a little. D008 should be
    1 & 2 - on when UP
    3 & 4 - on when UP
    5 & 6 - on when DOWN
    7 & 8 - on when DOWN

    You want ground & motor forwards on one set, ground & motor reverse on the reverse set. The spare ground and motor off are just floating but screwed to the switch so your not leaving them hanging.

    Edit
    just found your post with pictures here
    https://metalworkforums.com/f309/t20...ch-al330-lathe
    Looks like the replacement you got was a D009 so should be able to replace it terminal for terminal from the original
    D009 should be
    1 & 2 - on when DOWN
    3 & 4 - on when UP
    5 & 6 - on when MIDDLE / OFF
    7 & 8 - on when MIDDLE / OFF

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    sandstone point queensland
    Age
    69
    Posts
    182

    Default

    pulled the switch out today to get a better look at it ,may help with id............bob

    PHOTO 3 reads LA32 XK06
    -101
    3091
    PHOTO 2 reads Ui660v Ith10A

    hope this can helpbob
    Attached Images Attached Images

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