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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    If space permits I'd think about adding a terminal block to directly connect the VSD to the windings, leaving the switch free to switch the VSD.

    Stuart
    that would be nice.. not sure how to go about setting it up at this stage however

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwah View Post
    that would be nice.. not sure how to go about setting it up at this stage however
    Agreed - a nice idea, but you'd have to run the 240V mains into the switch, then out again to the VFD, then run the VFD output back in to connect to the motor. In this situation, it's best left with the switch doing nothing with a separate switch or isolator before the VFD.

  3. #33
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by RustyArc View Post
    Agreed - a nice idea, but you'd have to run the 240V mains into the switch, then out again to the VFD, then run the VFD output back in to connect to the motor. In this situation, it's best left with the switch doing nothing with a separate switch or isolator before the VFD.
    I don't think that was what Stu had in mind.
    I think he was suggesting to just wire the unpowered FWD switch on the VFD.
    This is a much better way to do it because it does not involved shutting down the VFD every time after every cut.
    Usually the VFD would be left on and the FWD and STOP switch just turns the motor on/OF.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I don't think that was what Stu had in mind.
    I think he was suggesting to just wire the unpowered FWD switch on the VFD.
    This is a much better way to do it because it does not involved shutting down the VFD every time after every cut.
    Usually the VFD would be left on and the FWD and STOP switch just turns the motor on/OF.
    Ah, that makes more sense. In that case you could run a light-duty shielded cable for the switching. That said, if the VFD is mounted somewhere within easy reach, you could just use the buttons on the front. If it was me, though, I'd prefer the toggle switch and ideally some kind of e-stop (which I would put on the supply side to the VFD).

  5. #35
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    got it all wired up and running today, works a treat!

    next step is to mount it in an enclosure, ideally with a toggle switch for on/off as previously mentioned..
    can anyone point me in the direction of a similar thread or walkthrough for setting this up?

  6. #36
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwah View Post
    got it all wired up and running today, works a treat!

    next step is to mount it in an enclosure, ideally with a toggle switch for on/off as previously mentioned..
    can anyone point me in the direction of a similar thread or walkthrough for setting this up?
    What VFD did you end up with?

  7. #37
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    ended up getting a huanyang 1.5kW unit
    figured I would start at the bottom and if it lets me down i'll upgrade to a Hitachi NES1 unit

  8. #38
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwah View Post
    ended up getting a huanyang 1.5kW unit
    figured I would start at the bottom and if it lets me down i'll upgrade to a Hitachi NES1 unit

    The manual should show you how to set up an external Forward/Stop switch.
    From memory the switch is wired between FWD and DCM and PD001 is set to 1.

  9. #39
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    any idea where to get enclosures/switches at a good rate?

    if your interested

  10. #40
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwah View Post
    any idea where to get enclosures/switches at a good rate? ]
    I only have 2 of my (9) VFDs inside enclosures.
    One is for my MW lathe where the VFD is inside an old Black and Decker Orbital Sander carry case, and the other is mounted inside a galvanised tool box nut that is more of a carry case.

    I either mount the VFDs direct onto the machine like these.
    Sometimes you will see I have put little galvanised dust shields over the top but as I have quite good dust extraction they don't seem to do much.
    This has a remote switch and speed control on the white mounting box near the main switch


    This BS uses a remote on/off switch and speed control (not visible in the picture) in a plastic box with a magnet that can be moved and attached to any part of the BS cabinet.
    I could just used the VFD but there are cabinet door and foot brake interlocks involved so it's better to use remote switching.


    or I mount the VFD onto SHS posts above machines like these
    Remote switch and speed control on the white box near the main switch


    No remote switch on this one I just used the VFD switches


    I could have done the same here - but there are also several interlocks involved so I set up a remote switch.


    Here's one where the VFD is inside the machine.
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=193863

    The dustier a shed is the more likely I would be to put VFDs inside enclosures.
    As I said above my dust extraction is quite good - I have 2 exhaust fans and a ducted wood dust extractor system (all are more than 1000CFM).
    I do have a lot of swarf and metal dust on the floor from time to time.

    For remote switches I started out using small low V switches but now I like to use these
    http://www.altronics.com.au/p/s1042-...toggle-switch/
    because they are clearly labelled and have a very positive feel to them.
    They also come with ON-OFF-ON for FWS and reverse setting in the one switch if needed.



    You will usually see an additional bright YELLOW and RED safety switch as well - This I usually use before the VFD so that it cuts the power to everything if needed.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwah View Post
    any idea where to get enclosures/switches at a good rate?
    I have a spare secondhand enclosure, internal dimensions roughly 200x300x130.
    Where in SA are you?

    Michael

  12. #42
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    I was originally going to mount the vfd bare on a shs behind the saw but based on the amount of dust that builds up in my poorly sealed shed i doubt the vfd would last long.. i also find the on/off buttons on the huanyang to be small and tricky to press

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    I have a spare secondhand enclosure, internal dimensions roughly 200x300x130.
    Where in SA are you?

    Michael
    thanks but the vfd is 180mm thick so it would not fit in that enclosure.
    furthermore based on ventilation requirements and the location i want to place the enclosure it needs to be a 300w x 400h x 200d
    which isn't cheap.. elec shops would charge me more than what i paid for the vfd for a enclosure that size
    ebay has some for less than 100..

    cheers

  13. #43
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwah View Post
    I was originally going to mount the vfd bare on a shs behind the saw but based on the amount of dust that builds up in my poorly sealed shed i doubt the vfd would last long.. i also find the on/off buttons on the huanyang to be small and tricky to press
    I agree the buttons are very ordinary an eventually the plastic membrane over the top of the buttons wears away as well

    thanks but the vfd is 180mm thick so it would not fit in that enclosure.
    furthermore based on ventilation requirements and the location i want to place the enclosure it needs to be a 300w x 400h x 200d which isn't cheap.. elec shops would charge me more than what i paid for the vfd for a enclosure that size bay has some for less than 100.
    I used a very cheap ($20) galvanised tool box from bunnings for my 3p-3p 7.5HP VFD.
    http://www.bunnings.com.au/rhino-465...l-box_p5810171
    It's more of a transport case for this VFD and I normally operate it with the door open, but it should fit the HY OK.
    If your enclosure is air tight you should fit a fan to the enclosure or at least cut/drill some air holes in the sides at the top and the bottom.
    This box is so leaky it probably wont need a fan for the intermittent testing that I do with it.
    If I decide to use it for extended periods with the door closed I will add a fan

    The switch and speed control are on a small plastic box attached to the RHS with a magnet so it can be move to where it is needed


    Here the switch is on top of the enclosure


    The back is stiffened with some 5 mm Al plate.
    The big switch on the side supplied the power to the VFD
    The black rubber feet on the base and the back are pushed over wooden dowels bolted to the case.
    The reason for the feet on the back is so I can lay it on its back for transport.


    The output uses a relatively unique 3P plug which reduces the chance of other plugs getting shoved in there.
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