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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    Default Washing machine woes

    We have an asko front loader, 15 years old.

    Its suddenly got erratic, sometimes deigning to wash, sometimes agreeing to open the door to relinquish said washing, sometimes producing only a few clicks.
    I cleared the laundry sufficiently to remove the top and back, only for it to behave flawlessly - for a day.
    My question to the collective wisdom.
    Is it worth spending money to repair? Ie, are the mechanicals likely to have a reasonable further life?
    Or should I write it off now, while there are 'repurposeable' bits still functional?
    And of course the other side is will a 'modern' machine have a reasonable life and be 'better' in any way?
    I haven't quite written it off yet, but there's very little to go wrong other than the logic board which could cost a lot...

  2. #2
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    If it's the logic board then you might not be able to get the spare part as 15 years is the outside time for manufacturers to supply these sorts of spare parts.

    With our old dishwasher (a fisher and paykel) the logic board started to cause probs after 12 years.

    After a lot of mucking about taking the machine back and forth to the service centre, we worked out that it suffered from low voltage failure. It would run on 240+V not on 239V or less. This was a bugger to identify as it would always work at the service centre, but sometimes yes, sometimes no, at our place. If was a Prof at work that suggested the voltage problem. This is a know problem for that model and happened mainly to people using the machine in the country where the voltage often drops off.

    The service centre had no replacement boards available as they had replaced so many of them over the years, and only place I could find a spare was on ebay which I felt I could not trust. The board it self was mostly inaccessible with several sections being potted in epoxy.

    I got around the prob for a few years by running it from a variable transformer (Variac) but over time the V required to run it got higher and higher. By the time we chucked it in it needed 260V to keep running.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    melbourne
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    Yep, one supplier says nla, price was 356, another says stock but 450.
    Not sure (actually I am sure) it's not worth spending 450 when I can replace for 800.

    I know there is a cost in holding parts, but at the spares prices, I reckon a full set of (available) parts would be North of $3k for an original price of 6-800...🤔

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Hi Russ, Guys,

    At 15 years old I would think that bearings and bushes would be worn ! As far as the thermal door lock is concerned they get lazy over time and do become voltage sensitive. The bimetallic strip that pushes the door lock slide across, relies on the main motor current to activate it, but relies on cooling to unlock the door.

    Usually two screws will release it and you can remove it to replace or clean it. They are normally riveted together so you cannot split them apart, but you can get into the slide with a toothbrush to clean the crud away. A drop of very thin oil on the slide sometimes helps.

    As far as bearings go, the drum ones tend to fail because water has got past the drum shaft seal ! The test there is to lift the drum and see how much play there is, on some machines the tub is a sealed plastic case and the bearings cannot be replaced, on others its a bolted on back plate with a gasket seal around the tub. The bearings on this type are easy to replace if you can get the water seal and back plate gaskets. Some manufactures made a kit of parts for this type of repair.

    The electronics tend to suffer dry joints in various places ! You mention that some of the parts are potted. These are usually the high voltage and current ones, the heater is the most common. The heaters themselves usually suffer from corrosion failure but are easily replaced. A common trick is to use the heater as a speed limiter for the motor when washing but shorting it out when spinning, but that depends upon the control circuits.

    HTH.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    melbourne
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    Default

    Thanks for the comments.
    Pretty sure the lock is solenoid based. No potted components fortunately, and I do actually have a board removed a few years ago, I think it suffered after a spider committed suicide on a hv terminal.
    When it does work the motor is fine, I suspect the door switch if it is not the logic board.
    I will check for loose bearing, there is definitely a 'noise'. It's replaceable but overall I suspect not economically.

    I also proved the often suspected fact that washing machines eat socks... I found about 15 kids socks inside, plus a set of keys. (slipped into the gap between drum and case)

  6. #6
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    North Brisbane. Qld. Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by russ57 View Post
    I also proved the often suspected fact that washing machines eat socks... I found about 15 kids socks inside, plus a set of keys. (slipped into the gap between drum and case)
    I often find $2 coins in mine. Strangely nothing else. I'll get rich.
    Nev.

  7. #7
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    Actually, last week I pulled $14.50 out of the coin trap...

  8. #8
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    Check Gumtree, we picked up a refurbished Asko front loader (last of the Made in Sweden models) for $350 5-ish years ago, still running perfectly with 1-2 loads a week.

  9. #9
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    Melbourne
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    Have a good look at the soldering on the board. (maybe you my have already done this)
    With ours the wash times started to go great crazy long, short story version, traced it to a dry solder joint on the relay for the heating element.
    Never know your luck.

    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    last of the Made in Sweden models
    Well thats sad news. We have had ours for a long time and its been "almost" faultless. if memory serves other than the above its had a pump replaced.

  10. #10
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    If you would enjoy a project, and you can access a timing diagram, you could program an Arduino or similar microprocessor to replace the logic board. If that doesn't interest you or is beyond your capabilities (and no shame if that is the case), check out Gumtree or local classified adds or else shell out for a new one.
    Be aware that many new ones, especially the cheaper ones are not likely to last for all that long. Our current machine, a Fisher and Paykel is a replacement for one which failed within 6 months, and for some reason the repairs could not be undertaken in reasonable time. The display board, (which also has its brain,) on this replacement machine failed at around 3± years. Out of of the warranty period, the repairs cost $275 ish, and I must say although I like the operation of this machine, it definitely has a reliability problem, and I would not buy another. That decision is also influenced by persistent anecdotal tales of Fisher and Paykel unreliability. This contrasts with our old washing machine, a Hoover made by Email in Orange NSW, which we bought in 1987. I think that I replaced the drive belt once, and the only reason the Hoover needed replacing around 3 years ago, was that the plastic lid with its microswitch actuator was failing, or my repairs to it were failing, but ironically I had kept it for parts to make a parts washer, and not got around to actually building that project. When the F&P went to the doctor, I dragged out the old Hoover, flushed out the gum leaves and set it to work again till the F&P returned home from washing machine hospital.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by russ57 View Post
    Thanks for the comments.
    Pretty sure the lock is solenoid based. No potted components fortunately,

    When it does work the motor is fine, I suspect the door switch if it is not the logic board.

    I will check for loose bearing, there is definitely a 'noise'. It's replaceable but overall I suspect not economically.
    Hi Russ

    The solenoid door locks were always iffy ! A good clean and a check that the micro switch isn't lazy.
    The early solenoid locks were replaced by thermal devices which seem to be more reliable.

    You might find that the "noise" you hear could be coins in between the drum and tub rattling about. The other thing that I've found that causes all sorts of weird noise is the reinforcing bones that are put into ladies bra's, they go through the holes in the drum and catch the heater element.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the tip...

    I'm told asko are now not well regarded.
    Wife is keen on samsung. (special door in door to allow adding the sock that always escapes on the trip to the laundry...)

  13. #13
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    Apr 2010
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    Bundoora, Victoria
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by russ57 View Post
    Thanks for the comments.
    I also proved the often suspected fact that washing machines eat socks... I found about 15 kids socks inside, plus a set of keys. (slipped into the gap between drum and case)
    Most washing machines have a special single sock collection area. Once it becomes full, you have to replace it as the machine ceases to work.
    On a serious note, you've done well to get 15 years. Most will give up after 8 to 10. Personally, Id replace it.

  14. #14
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    An executive decision was made, and the replacement has been ordered...

    I did contemplate the arduino idea. Could be a great hack.
    I'll probably try to get it running then offload it, or it can join the "low cost material being accumulated in preparation for unknown future projects" pile...

  15. #15
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    Hi Russ,
    If you do get it going, even if only limping along, sadly I think that you should keep it. When the new one $hits itself, about a week after the warranty period has elapsed, you will still have a washing machine to hide your socks in while the newer machine is in dock.
    Good luck

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