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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    jilliby nsw
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    67
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    102

    Default

    On mine the inch pedal also operates brakes when fully depressed. When you let the pedal up it allows the fork to move if the fwd / rev lever is in position. I think from memory there was an adjustment of the pedal and transmission. Does machine move if you move lever into fwd / rev and not touch pedals?. Mine aso has a filter on top of the transmission next to the fill / dipstick.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    54
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    1,362

    Default Any forklift mechanics here?

    Sounds like the same as mine.
    Here's a photo of the pedal arrangement. I can see the selector rod on the side of the trans housing moving when I push on the pedal, and exposes shiny rod.




    There is an adjustment rod from the pedal to the trans linkage. The adjustment rod isn't locked and if I'm reading it correctly lengthening the rod would result in less "disengaging" when you press the pedal.




    The filter on the trans I've managed to get a cross ref for, and its the same as a Ryco Z411.

    Steve

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    54
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    1,362

    Default

    ďFilter is the same as RYCO Z411Ē
    Hmmm. Maybe.

    Definitely not the same as the Supercrap Auto Z411 replacement. I wouldnít usually buy their filters but thought it would most likely end up being sacrificial if the trans needed work so may as well save a few dollars. Bad choice.

    Supercrap on the left, original on the right. The Supercrap one bottoms out on the threaded fitting before the seal contacts




    I had pulled the old filter, cut the case open and had a look to see if it was full of debris. Nothing - It was perfectly clean.
    Oil looks good - not dirty or burnt.
    Started the engine with the filter off and thereís plenty of oil pumping out.

    I have a feeling Iím about to learn whatís inside it.....

    Good news is I picked up the new hoses today, got them fitted and was able to check the full ranges of travel.




    Steve

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    jilliby nsw
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    Default

    Ok Steve, did some research and the problem zero's in on the inching valve or adjustment. when the inch pedal is up the valve is closed and oil is directed to clutch packs. When inch pedal is depressed valve opens and lets oil pass clutches so no transmission movement happens but hydraulics still operate to raise and lower forks.
    So problem should lie in the adjustment and/or valve operation. Adjustment can be worked out by adjusting the little rod in the opposite direction to the direction of travel when pedal is depressed. Inch valve may be stuck slightly open as there is no motion forwards or backwards. Valve can be accessed outside of transmission apparently. Careful as there is generally a spring just waiting to fly out and hide hahaha. Fork mechanic says this is about the only remaining possibility if oil level & filter is ok. If machine has been sitting a while it is possible that valve doesnt have free & full movement. I'd check that first and then check adjustment. Apparently the transmission is fairly reliable.
    Hope this solves your issue, best of luck, cheers Ian

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    54
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    Default

    Awesome - thanks Ian. I'll take a look at it.
    I've read online of the clutch pack that the inching valve controls being cactus, so hoping its as simple as the valve itself.
    I'm guessing there is probably somewhere that you can hook up an external pressure gauge to help with troubleshooting issues like this, but without a manual that's all it is - a guess!

    Noted about that "dink-donk" spring. I've got a few spares in the shed somewhere, but can never find them
    The gravel floor outdoor workshop is great for oil spills but not so good for dropping small parts.
    Hoping I can nick out later this arvo and grab a filter that actually fits.

    Steve

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
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    1,362

    Default Any forklift mechanics here?

    Found I had a filter that fitted in my odds and sods filters box so avoided a trip down the road to get one.

    Messed with the inching valve adjustment a bit, no change.
    Disconnected the linkage completely, no change.
    Removed the valve, stripped it down - looks fine. Full travel, no debris
    Reassembled it, tried to refit it but the damn pedal support kept getting in the way so after an hour struggling with it I removed the pedals to get some access. Should have done it right at the start before removing the valve !!

    Valve back on, fired it up - no difference

    I think the next thing is to pull the selector valve body off and see if there's anything obvious inside.

    Edit - photo of the inching valve and got a coat of paint on the engine cover..






    Steve

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    jilliby nsw
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    Regarding a manual I have gone through google and cant find much on older TCM forks at all. Theres a bit of information on later model machines but mostly their workings are controlled by electric solenoids. Manuals seem non existant. Fortunately being fitter I have managed to fix most things using prior industrial experience. Would love to get a manual for the forklift mechanical side of it though. Until then I "bribe" a local fork mechanic with honey in exchange for answers lol. Maybe you can find a manual of sorts

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    Yes, a manual would be great but I havenít come across one yet in my searching.
    Still trying to get my head around how the model numbers relate to years too.
    Iím thinking that there will be a slightly different model of the same age that will have the same trans - I just need to work out which one/s.
    Be good to know if the trans model number is stamped or cast on it somewhere as Iíve come across some TCM trans manuals online.

    Steve

  9. #24
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    Feb 2009
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    jilliby nsw
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    I think the next thing is to pull the selector valve body off and see if there's anything obvious inside.

    Yes when I think about it perhaps the issue is more than likely the main fwd / rev lever / valve as the fork doesnt move at at all. The inching valve only disconnects the drive.
    What about the fluid path from the tank to the transmission, blocked pick up tank filter maybe, blocked pipe. Just having a stab in the dark as its been years since Ive had the floor plates out. Id start at the tank and work my way forward, had a similar problem with diesel hilux starving for fuel. Turned out to be a gauze filter totally covered in some slimey gunk in the tank. Praying for you Steve lol

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    54
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    I had that same slimey snot in my old yard crane when I got it. Water and oil grows new life forms!!
    Luckily with this the trans oil is just in the trans itself - the only place it goes external is to the cooler in the radiator. Without having a the hydraulic diagram its hard to know whether an issue with the cooler or hoses might be relevant, but the fact that the oil is being pumped out well with the filter off ( ie a 10" high gusher at idle) suggests its at least flowing well from the pump to there.
    Still the possibility it might not be making sufficient pressure to operate the clutch packs I guess.

    Had a few lucky strikes today. First was finding a hard copy transmission manual from the US. I can't cross ref from the chassis model number I've got to the actual trans model, but it looks identical in the photos, so I figure it will at least be useful from a troubleshooting and general hydraulic circuit diagram perspective.
    The other one just now was finding some original Microfiche slides on ebay from Germany. They were listed as FG9 - but when I looked at the photos of the cards themselves my exact model FG18N16S was listed. Bingo!!

    Stormy here today so not good for pulling the top off a trans outside. Will get on with my hydraulic press build

    Steve

  11. #26
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    Feb 2009
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    jilliby nsw
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    Hi Steve, just as a matter of interest it seems that when you find the engine number stamped on the block ( mine is hidden behind the distributor) the prefix A** is the engine type. Mine is an A15 ie 1500cc in capacity.
    Did you have any success with the transmission or are you sidetracked on the press at the moment. cheers Ian

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Any forklift mechanics here?

    This is the engine serial number etc from mine. No "A" on it, and I didn't find any obvious reference online to a S15 engine....




    Not so much distracted as just haven't had a opportunity. Mainly been busy with work or jobs around the yard although I guess picking up the twin head drill press on Saturday was a distraction
    Definitely wished it was going when I unloaded that. Would have saved me an hour messing around with the gantry and slings etc.

    Yesterday was a hot gusty nor-wester and too dusty to open it up. Shaping up to be the same today...

    Steve

  13. #28
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    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Any forklift mechanics here?

    Pulled the valve body off the top of the trans tonight after the wind died off...

    Not much inside - just the clutch packs and a couple of gears. One pack for FWD and one for REV.
    The REV pack is the one on the right (ie front of the trans).




    I poked and prodded at the valve body with an air nozzle to see which ports went where.
    Identified that the 2 ports with the o-rings at the LH front corner of the trans (top corner in the photo) are the ones that go to the clutch packs.
    The LH one is the FWD clutch, the RH one is the REV clutch.
    Putting the air blower in each port I could make the appropriate clutch move.

    I had a look over the valve body, removed the pressure relief valve spring and checked that the valve was free to move.
    Removed the lower half of the body, but nothing of interest. Going to be a PITA to make a new gasket for it to match the galleries/ports.





    There are couple of blanking plugs in the galleries that go to the clutches, so I'm guessing I could put a gauge on those to check the clutch oil pressure. Probably a bit pointless unless I can find out what the pressure SHOULD be.
    My main concern now is how much free space/play there should be in the clutch packs. Without actually having measured yet, I'm guessing there would be at least 3mm in these ones. More than what I expected.

    Steve

  14. #29
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    I put the valve body and cover back on and hooked up a pressure gauge to the pump port. Getting about 180psi at idle which as far as I can find out so far seems reasonable.

    Didnít have anything to connect into the clutch ports so ordered a cheap kit from eBay with gauge, hose and fittings for cheaper than I can buy a hose locally.

    I had a suggestion from another forum to check the diff, so jacked up a wheel. Zero drive.
    Pulled that axle - it was fine, but looking inside I could see a displaced ring with splined bore.
    Pulling the other axle to get a different view I could see the ring was actually one of the diff side gears. Iíve come across stripped teeth, broken cross pins and chomped up crown wheel bolts in diffs before, but never a fully floating side gear!

    Will be interesting to find the cause after Iíve pulled the mast and diff housing to get to it

    Steve

  15. #30
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    68
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    4,723

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    Sounds like someone's given it a hard time!!!
    Was it drivable before?? Can't remember reading about it
    Sounds a bit like my Ute, tailshaft turns but no drive to the wheels.
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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