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  1. #16
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by adyadad View Post
    Keep your 240v. I recently had to mount some outside blinds on my daughter's house. The 18v cordless didn't cut it into brick. Swapped to the 240v and it was easy..
    It depends a bit on the drill. My newish Makita cordless hammer drill does a really good job through bricks and concrete so I stopped using my 240V gear for these sorts of jobs. The Old 240V Ozito has an SDS chuck so I use that for longer holes in concrete as I have a set of long bits for it.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Guys,

    Batteries are available from Chinese sources, and its not too hard to rebuild a battery pack ! The problem is that you really need a spot welder to weld the replacement nickel strips connecting the batteries to each other.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #18
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    Jul 2006
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    Athelstone, SA 5076
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    Quote Originally Posted by bollie7 View Post
    I bought new way back in the mid 1980's for the princely sum of $230,


    how do you recall that...did you write it down on the drill?....still got your first paypacket as well?...i have .... but its empty

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Charlestown NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    how do you recall that...did you write it down on the drill?
    haha, I have no idea actually. Some numbers have just stuck in my head yet others either disappear entirely in a short space of time or worse, transpose into a different number. Usually only discovered after I have cut, made or ordered something to the wrong size. Case in point. I recently ordered a cheap coolant pump from Aliexpress. Some time between measuring my tank at 210mm deep and ordering the pump, I managed to transpose the numbers and turn it into 120 mm deep. Duh. So the pump arrived today and its way to short for my tank. bugger.


    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    ....still got your first paypacket as well?...i have .... but its empty
    No but I can remember it was $45/week on top. I thought I was rich.
    peter

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    I can remember my first pay packet, $12.60 after tax. I can remember my bank details from 20+ years ago, but have trouble lately with passwords, so I write them down.
    Only trouble is trying to remember where I placed the book with them in!!!!!!
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #21
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by bollie7 View Post
    No but I can remember it was $45/week on top. I thought I was rich.
    peter
    I remember my first pay packet. I was 13 and mum dragged me around the shops in a small country town and signed me up for a job during the school holidays at a small menswear store. I had to dress like a dork in all new clothes, dress shorts, collared shirts, tie, and new school type black shoes, which I had to pay for by borrowing money from mum. My pay was $10.30 a week and it took me more than half the holidays to pay off the cost of the clothes. I spend the rest of may pay on a Joplin Vice which I still have and a set of P&N drill bits some of which I still have.

    Apart from the shoes, which I subsequently wore to school, I hated those clothes and avoided wearing them as much as I could. Before the next summer holidays I got myself a job stacking supermarket shelves in the evenings and could wear regular jeans and sneakers. Mum was very disappointed I was not wearing nicer clothes to work. Can't remember what it was but the pay was lightly better, plus we could eat as much of the left over doughnuts and other baked goods that were being thrown out at the end of the day. I reckon I put on about 10lbs that summer. There was a group of 4 other lads involved in the cleaning up and restocking and we got up to all sorts of mischief those evenings.

    The following summer I decided to get a real job in a cement product concrete factory. Excellent pay but- hot - dusty - grimy - backbreaking stuff. I could go on but that's enough for now.

  7. #22
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    Jun 2016
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    Sydney
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    I have a 40 yr old B&D corded drill with cast aluminium body and 2 speeds (by gears). Made before they went plastic. I have a smaller Makita corded drill as well. Both get used extensively on the farm and in the workshop. I don't have a battery-powered drill. Thought about it a few times, but never really needed one.

    Btw: a brace & bit with a flat drill bit will go through timber faster than an electric drill ime. I have 3 braces.

    Cheers
    Roger

  8. #23
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcaffin View Post
    Btw: a brace & bit with a flat drill bit will go through timber faster than an electric drill ime. I have 3 braces.
    Have you tried the Speed Bore Augers on an electric?

    My problem using braces is I run out puff/speed after a couple of long holes.

    I used a brace for about half a day when I started building nature playgrounds (often whole hardwood logs and branches) but gave it away for a set of speed bore bits, a gutsy cordless drill, an even gutsier cordless impact driver, and 4 batteries.

    Most days two batteries (one on the drill and one on the driver) were enough to drill many dozens of holes and drive in the up to 20 mm diam x 300 mm long coach bolts. The driver was able to drive in the 12 x 150 mm long coach bolts without drilling holes except that it would occasionally snap the heads off about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way in. When I drilled the first few holes holes for the 20 mm diameter coach bolts some were too short and found if I was not careful the driver would snap the heads off those coach bolts when they bottomed out.

    This was a set of stairs cut from two lengths of 650 mm diameter Spotted gun, and bolted together using 20 x 300 mm coach bolts.
    The bolt heads are recessed 50 mm into the timber surface and the holes filled with a piece of dowel turned from PUECE OF THE HOLE
    Oiled2.jpg

    These were some of the tortoises in the nature playground I did carved the heads legs and tails for.
    The biggest one is ~8m long and just the head/nech alone weighs about 600kg.
    To support the heads, legs and tails above the ground I fabbed up steel stirrups from 3 x 50 x 50 SHS and bolted these to the undersides of the appendages using 12 x 150mm coach bolts.
    Finished1.jpg

    These logs were used as ladder/steps at an angle of about 15-20º and sat in recesses cut into another log and pinned in place with large coach bolts
    Steps1.jpg

    FWIW the carving of the turtles was performed initially with a 72cc and then with a 35cc chainsaw with a dedicated carving bar. The carving detail was done with a TC tipped 100 mm Arbortech carving wheel on a 240V 100mm Makita angle grinder which I ran from a genset, as my cordless grinder chewed very quickly through batteries. The

    Because I already had the genset on site I could have drilled the holes with a 240V drill but I don't like dragging power cords all over a site and repeatedly starting, running and stopping the genset.

    The big stairs were cut with custom made 120cc chainsaw mill.

  9. #24
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    Jun 2016
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    Sydney
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    Default Speedbores

    Speedbores - yeah, that's them. I especially like the version with the little pointy tips out at the corners.

    My B&D with 2 gears runs at 900 RPM on low gear: and goes through almost anything.

    Must say, I like those steps (1st photo). They look beautiful. Have you treated the wood with anything? I ask because I have a 20 L drum of linseed oil I got for very little, and I find it is wonderful stuff. All wooden tool handles get it.

    Carving bars for a chainsaw? Tell me more, please. I have 3 petrol chainsaws of various sizes, and one 2.4 kW electric chainsaw. And some l o n g extension leads. I find the electric chainsaw the most useful of the lot, and MUCH safer.

    Cheers
    Roger

  10. #25
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcaffin View Post
    cMust say, I like those steps (1st photo). They look beautiful. Have you treated the wood with anything? I ask because I have a 20 L drum of linseed oil I got for very little, and I find it is wonderful stuff. All wooden tool handles get it.
    Linseed oil and turps mix, 3 coats. Of course they finish only lasted in the open for a few months and with no one paid to re-coat they eventually went the usual grey.

    Carving bars for a chainsaw? Tell me more, please.
    Here's what a carving bar looks like alongside a 25" bar.
    Comp2.jpg

    The carving bar runs a 1/4" pitch, micro chain, is about 12" long, and the tip has a radius of curvature similar to that of a 20c piece.
    These bars are not cheap but small size makes the bar a bit lighter and hence easier to operate, and the pointier tip makes it easier to cut detail.
    The bigger saw runs a 3/8 Lopro chain which gives it a narrower kerf so less wood is removed but it also takes load off the power head. When I say the chain is a 3/8 chain, it's not really 3/8 and it requires a special drive sprocket not readily available so I make mine from 0.404" rim sprockets. The metal used in rim sprockets is some form of sintered/hardened steel alloy that challenges even carbide bits on the lathe.


    I have 3 petrol chainsaws of various sizes, and one 2.4 kW electric chainsaw. And some l o n g extension leads. I find the electric chainsaw the most useful of the lot, and MUCH safer.
    Humm . . . I consider electric corded chainsaws potentially more dangerous than petrol powered saws. Dragging leads across a worksite has to come with some risk, not just for the immediate task but for subsequent use of the leads unless the leads are regularly inspected and tested. However, the main issue with electric saws is the higher torque at low revs. This makes chainsaw chaps less effective against electric chainsaws compared to petrol powered saws which will stall easily at low revs.

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