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  1. #1
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    Default Machining setup, thoughts needed

    Hi all
    I have a hole that needs machining which contains a shaft with a bevel gear on one end. Needless to say due to the meshing of the gears, some accuracy is required.
    Here's the thing, I am struggling to work out how to set it up accurately enough for what I want, though, I may just be overthinking it too much. I don't have much I can use to check the accuracy of the setup on the casting and with what I have come up with, something is just not sitting right in my mind.
    I am hoping for some input from the brains trust as to what I am doing wrong or if there is another way. If any more pics are needed please yell out, same with info and answers.
    It is a Pickering Governor used to control the speed of a steam engine.

    Phil
    Pickering speed adj copy.jpg 20180328_152121.jpg Pickering Governor24 copy.jpg Pickering Governor42 copy.jpg Pickering Governor68 copy.jpg Pickering Governor33 copy.jpg

  2. #2
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    Default

    Is the the existing hole accurately positioned but just worn? If so I might just ream it in place and make a bigger shaft. Otherwise I would probably use the bottom face of the valve base on an angle plate (ideally on a mill but you could put an angle plate on your faceplate.

    Sing out if you want to use a mill.

  3. #3
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    Default

    As Ralph mentioned, I'd set it in the centre of the casting. Because the gears are bevelled, adjustment would be back and forth using shims to remove backlash. As long as it's in line with the vertical shaft, it should be good.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    Is the the existing hole accurately positioned but just worn? If so I might just ream it in place and make a bigger shaft. Otherwise I would probably use the bottom face of the valve base on an angle plate (ideally on a mill but you could put an angle plate on your faceplate.

    Sing out if you want to use a mill.
    I just knew there was more info I forgot. This is well butchered and well worn plus there is a bit of a casting anomoly in the bore. My reamer is falling into the hole and veering off at an angle.
    Ta for the mill offer, it might yet come to that.

    Phil

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    As Ralph mentioned, I'd set it in the centre of the casting. Because the gears are bevelled, adjustment would be back and forth using shims to remove backlash. As long as it's in line with the vertical shaft, it should be good.
    Kryn
    Hi Kryn
    This is my problem, you just explained it better. How can I tell if it is in line with the vertical shaft?

    Phil

  6. #6
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    Default

    I'm in the front row learning here. Missed these post Phil.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Very hard sometimes to get a good feel from photos.
    Have you got an angle plate that is big enough to mount to the face plate and still allow you to mount the flange to it?

  8. #8
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    My thoughts are that the bottom flange is square (or should be) square to the bore, so clamp that to an angle plate and that should get the cross bore square to the plate base (whether that's on a face plate or a mill bed. (A horizontal mill could possible do the job without the angle plate).
    Getting the cross bore square in the other direction will need a bit of work with an indicator, but if you clamped a piece of plate to your 'good' surface, that would probably give you a good side to side position. That will depend on whether that surface is square to where the bore should be.

    Michael

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Very hard sometimes to get a good feel from photos.
    Have you got an angle plate that is big enough to mount to the face plate and still allow you to mount the flange to it?
    Hi Peter
    That's the only angle plate I have that will fit and swing in the lathe. I will try and take some more pics.

    Phil

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael g View Post
    my thoughts are that the bottom flange is square (or should be) square to the bore, so clamp that to an angle plate and that should get the cross bore square to the plate base (whether that's on a face plate or a mill bed. (a horizontal mill could possible do the job without the angle plate).
    Hi Michael
    I machined the recess on the opposite end to the flange and used that to get the vertical bore in alignment. The thought was that I could use the flange to bolt an outrigger support if needed

    getting the cross bore square in the other direction will need a bit of work with an indicator, but if you clamped a piece of plate to your 'good' surface, that would probably give you a good side to side position. That will depend on whether that surface is square to where the bore should be.
    This is my dilemma. 'That' surface still has original machining marks on it as the accessory that would have gone there never did. I am assuming that it would've been machined true to the horizontal bore. I need a surface/marking out plate so I can run around to either side with a dial indicator, same same with a milling table all of which I don't have so creativity is the name of this game.
    Just thinking that a fairly decent fairly straight bit of something, like a lathe bed could give me the same setup as a milling table.

    Phil

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    ...I need a surface/marking out plate so I can run around to either side with a dial indicator, same same with a milling table all of which I don't have so creativity is the name of this game.
    Don't you have a CI wing plate somewhere around the place?

    Michael

  12. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Don't you have a CI wing plate somewhere around the place?

    Michael
    Hells bells!! that's coming out in the morning.
    Funny thing is the shed's getting a cleanup and under the bench is next.
    Thanks Michael

    Phil

  13. #13
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    Would it be possible after seeing the set up on the face plate to do it on a mill Phill?

  14. #14
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    Absolutely Ray, about the only extra problems I could see would be not enough 'Z' because it would certainly take up some space but also requires a boring bar about 3" long.
    A head that can be swung 90 deg. would alleviate this problem though.
    There is also nothing to dial off to locate the bore under the spindle. The bore I have is well worn so dialling up will only be an approximation, as it will on the lathe, but, I will be able to see it rotating and gauge a lot easier by eye as to its concentricity.
    Silk purse out of a sows ear springs to mind, still, it is heritage.

    Phil

  15. #15
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    Default

    Your better bet is probably to put some smooth tape around the outside of the casting and dial in on that.

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