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  1. #61
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    Apr 2012
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    John you should have a mounting point for the indicator on the quill housing?
    If you clamp your 1,2,3 blocks to the table then you will have less chance of any accumulated error and also you then only need to dial in the side of the block.
    See in the pic how to use a parallel to measure the length of the block, be aware that when measuring your y axis that when raising and lowering your z the table to column distance will likely change with the up and down direction so when you go down go a little past where you need to be and then wind back up, not all mills are the same but you need to be aware of this to not get an error reading.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #62
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    Apr 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Unfortunately the Mitutoyo gauge only goes to two decimals plus or minus a half (third digit is either a zero or a five).
    You might get 4 decimal places if you use the imperial mode, then you will 10ths of a thou....maybe?

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    John you should have a mounting point for the indicator on the quill housing?
    If you clamp your 1,2,3 blocks to the table then you will have less chance of any accumulated error and also you then only need to dial in the side of the block.
    See in the pic how to use a parallel to measure the length of the block, be aware that when measuring your y axis that when raising and lowering your z the table to column distance will likely change with the up and down direction so when you go down go a little past where you need to be and then wind back up, not all mills are the same but you need to be aware of this to not get an error reading.
    Hi John,

    Thanks for that picture, I now see what I'm missing !

    Surprising how the simplest thing becomes invisible at times I just couldn't see that set up. I do have a precision set square with a 100 mm calibrated blade that I can use. And a suitable 0.0001 dial test gauge that I can use to get a zero. Next problem is where I can place a Magmount on the mill head instead of using the quill and drill chuck to hold the indicator.

    As far as winding the mill head up and down, I know that it moves about 4 or 5 thou to my left when I lock the head and about 6 thou the other way when locking the quill.

    I'll change the setup and take another picture. Many thanks for your assistance and advice.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #64
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    Apr 2012
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    John can you mount or clamp your indicator to the column?

  5. #65
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    John can you mount or clamp your indicator to the column?
    Thanks John,

    I don't know ! I will have to investigate that.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #66
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    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default Pictures !

    Hi John,

    I've redone the measurement set up for setting the Linear deviation. I did find that if I used a long rod to hold the dial gauge that I could place the Magmount on the side of the mill head next to the quill feed. The dial gauge is a half thou Mercer, though that doesn't make setting zero any easier. I measured the set square blade at 82.0 mm dead, so that is my reference value.

    17-09-2022-001.JPG 17-09-2022-002.JPG

    The setup to set the zero position.


    17-09-2022-004.jpg 17-09-2022-005.jpg 17-09-2022-003.JPG

    The readings on the DRO also showing the dial gauge at the position where I took the readings. I repeated the measurement several times and got a consistent last digit result.

    I make the correction value 0.000125. Now to find out how to enter this correction value into the DRO.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #67
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    John this vid gives a pretty good step by step demo, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drufKxVdSXk he even puts a DTI in the spindle, not sure i like that but it seems to work for him.

  8. #68
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi John, Guys,

    I've followed the instructions in the Op manual without success ! So either I'm doing something wrong or the book is wrong. I've Emailed the manufacturer "Shenzhen Hengxingxing precision instrument about it, but not received a reply other than an acknowledgement that they have received my Email.

    Now we wait !

    I'll post details of the work so far on the "Pebble Tumbler" in the next post.

    Thanks:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #69
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    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Thumbs up Gearbox construction !

    Hi Guys,

    I've started work on a simple gearbox to step down the tumbler speed and be able to run the motor at a reasonable speed.
    I've removed the optical speed control from the motor, so that is now out of the way.

    Gear Chain.png

    This is the arrangement drawing of the motor and two gears. Actually three, four if you include the belt gear. The motor has a brass 10 mm diameter toothed gear on the end of the shaft, the motor in light grey and the toothed gear in yellow driving the gear in dark grey. In the centre of this gear is a smaller gear, shown in green. This gear drives the olive coloured gear which will be mounted on the shaft driving the belt pulley.

    21-09-2022-001.jpg

    The whole lot will be mounted on this piece of 3 mm thick rigid plastic.

    21-09-2022-004.JPG 21-09-2022-003.JPG

    This is the motor fastened to the plastic strip.

    21-09-2022-002.JPG

    These are the two plastic gears salvaged from a printer or photo copier. I don't know if these came off the same piece of machinery. However they both have 6 mm diameter spindles.

    21-09-2022-005.JPG 21-09-2022-006.JPG

    Two views of the assembly. I've used a couple of 6 mm drills as temporary spindles. In the second of these pictures you can get an idea of the depth needed to mount these gears. Applying 6 volts to the motor causes them to turn quite nicely.

    More to come, thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Thumbs up More Done !

    Hi Guys,

    Quite a busy day ! I've been cutting and milling a 13 mm thick nylon bracket for the Pebble Tumbler motor support, so that I can fasten it to the wooden base.

    26-09-2022-001.jpg

    One of the first jobs was to get out a fretsaw and file in order to round the ends of the plastic plate. Its now completed except for reaming the left hand hole 6 mm +0.1 so that it was clearance for a 6 mm journal. The middle hole is still intentionally a tight fit on a 6 mm dowel pin.

    26-09-2022-004.JPG 26-09-2022-005.JPG

    Now I needed something to support the motor and allow it to rotate a little before being secured in position with an M4 screw. I used a hole saw in the drill press to drill a hole all the way through. A 37 mm hole saw drilled a 37.5 mm hole due to the sight wobble, so the motor could be rotated easily.

    26-09-2022-002.JPG 26-09-2022-003.JPG

    Next I drilled a 3.2 mm hole in the top and tapped it M4. I used an 8 mm drill to countersink the hole so that the screw head was below the surface. I flycut all four sides of the nylon piece prior to drilling and threading.

    I also marked and drilled a 6 mm hole for the support shaft for the gear. The red line that you can see marks the position of the plastic plate supporting the gears.

    26-09-2022-008.jpg 26-09-2022-006.JPG 26-09-2022-007.jpg

    These three pictures are of the partially assembled motor showing how the journal supporting the gear indexes the gear mounting plate preventing it from moving.

    26-09-2022-010.JPG 26-09-2022-009.JPG

    These last two pictures are of a trial assembly. It illustrates nicely how the assembly is positioned. The shaft through the plastic plate with the belt on one side and the driven gear on the other. The shaft runs freely in the plastic plate and the bearings in the nylon mounting.

    The next step is to make a pair of angle brackets to secure the motor mount to the wooden base.

    More to follow ! Thanks Guys for your support.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #71
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    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Thumbs up Trial Assembly !

    Hi Guys,

    I've done some more work on the Pebble Tumbler drive and canister !

    03-10-2022-002.JPG 03-10-2022-001.jpg

    This is the motor mounting bracket with the "L" shaped brackets made from 0.9 mm aluminium strip fastened to the bracket. A small adjustment to the height of the bracket was made because the top just fouled the bottom of the canister stopping it from rotating. I milled a couple of mm off the top.

    03-10-2022-005.JPG

    This picture is of the drive end with the fourth iteration of the toothed pulley driving the belt. The canister is seen in place with the wing nut securing the ends together. The far end is chemically bonded to the rim of the canister so any liquid leaks will only be from the fixings in the centre. The M6 threaded rod has a heat shrink sleeve protecting it inside the canister. I did grease the threads to try and prevent any liquid ingress corroding the threaded rod.

    03-10-2022-006.jpg 03-10-2022-003.JPG 03-10-2022-004.JPG

    These last three pictures are of the motor and mounting with a closeup of the gearbox. You can also see the "O" ring on the canisters removable end.

    I have had the tumbler running with the full rated 24 volts on the motor, with the canister turning at about 40 rpm. I'm going to run a test with some water and a few pebbles to see how it goes.

    More to come ! Thanks guys:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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