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Thread: Homebrew Slotter project !
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16th Apr 2022, 01:07 AM #46
Hi Jekyll and Hyde, Steve, Guys,
Thanks for your comments guys.
I don't think that I've done enough welding to spatter the helmet glass ! But I do agree that stick and MIG produce a lot more spatter than TIG does. I've probably only done maybe six to ten hours welding in total, however having said that I'm on to my second 3Kg bottle of CO2.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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16th Apr 2022, 06:54 PM #47
Drive spindle bearing !
Hi Guys,
The drawing for the Drive Spindle bearing housing !
Quite similar to the Pulley bearing housing but smaller using 6002ZZ bearings.
Pulley Drive spindle.png
I've used the same four hole mounting arrangement, but when mounted on the back support plate the M6 screws will be in vertical slots so that the drive belt can be tensioned by pulling the housing up.
I now have the drive belt and need to grind a 40 degree lathe tool so that I can cut the "V" grooves for the multi "V belt into the cast iron pulley. I need to cut five 40 degree "V"s 3.45 mm apart and 3 mm deep.
I will do the drawing for the back support plate next.
Thanks for looking, your comments are appreciated.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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21st Apr 2022, 05:42 AM #48
Back support plate !
Hi Guys,
Between enjoying the few days of nice weather here at the moment I've got around to doing the drawing for the slotter backplate. This is the part that supports the pulley, bearing housings and the yoke guides. The top bearing housing is adjustable in order to allow me to tension the drive belt.
Slotter Backplate-01.png
As can be seen this is quite a substantial piece of metal and is just about the largest I can get onto the mill table, it also weighs a lot more than I expected. I have also acquired the 214 mm by 150 mm piece of 12 mm plate in order to machine the yoke.
Thanks for looking:Best Regards:
Baron J.
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25th Apr 2022, 12:25 AM #49
Pulley bearing housing !
Hi Guys,
I've had quite a productive weekend ! Lots of pictures in this post.
Apart from drilling and threading the fastening holes, the pulley bearing housing is finished.
24-04-2022-002.jpg 24-04-2022-001.jpg 24-04-2022-006.JPG
These pictures are of the two pieces of round bar that I had in order to make the bearing housings. I started with the largest one by setting it up in the four jaw chuck on the lathe after cutting it almost to length with the bandsaw. Since cold rolled bar is very rarely truly round I skimmed the surface for about an inch in length, faced it true and then turned it around and set it up accurately in the chuck using the trued up surface.
24-04-2022-003.jpg
Next step was facing the other end and truing the surface. This second end now becomes my reference end.
24-04-2022-005.jpg 24-04-2022-004.JPG
After drilling a 10 mm pilot hole right through the piece then I followed that with a one inch blacksmiths drill. Using a boring bar I now opened the bore out to 35 mm. This was done in order to clear the inner of the 6004ZZ ball races that I'm going to use. The red line is the radius where the M6 securing screws will go.
24-04-2022-009.JPG
Next I machined out the 42 mm pocket for the bearing to sit in, making it 12 mm deep so that the bearing sits flush with the housing face. The bearing is a finger push into the pocket. I expect that it will tighten as the workpiece cools down, since it became quite warm.
24-04-2022-007.JPG 24-04-2022-008.JPG
These two pictures are of the finished housing showing a dummy 20 mm shaft fitted into place.
Note a bit of 20 mm bar comes a bit sharp when it slides out of the bearings and lands on your foot. Trainers don't offer any protection at all.
24-04-2022-010.jpg
I've posted this picture because of the super surface finish and the rather interesting patterning on the small diameter surface. Also you can see where there is a hard patch in the metal leaving a shiny strip.
That is all for now ! More to come.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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25th Apr 2022, 09:32 PM #50
Yoke done !
Hi Guys,
I promised more !
However I chickened out machining the slot in the 12 mm thick steel plate, so I had a local laser cutting firm make me a yoke plate. They used my DXF file and very kindly marked the hole centres for the two M8 threaded holes as well, so all I had to do was drill and thread them.
25-04-2022-001.jpg 25-04-2022-002.jpg 25-04-2022-003.jpg
This is the plate that I collected this morning. You can see in the first picture where they marked the hole centres. Its now drilled and threaded M8.
I also collected the piece of 6 mm plate needed for the back plate. I'll take pictures of that when I've finished machining it.
Thanks for looking:Best Regards:
Baron J.
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30th Apr 2022, 01:03 AM #51
Patination !
Hi Guys,
I'm a little surprised that no one has commented on the patination left on the turned surface of this
piece.
24-04-2022-010.jpgBest Regards:
Baron J.
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30th Apr 2022, 11:40 AM #52Most Valued Member
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Is that the finish on the LHS of the part?
I get that from time to time as well. Far be it for me to comment!
Is that from a too high surface speed for the HSS tool or just crap steel?
So far I think it's looking great!
Simon
Sent from a galaxy far far awayGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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30th Apr 2022, 03:16 PM #53Most Valued Member
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30th Apr 2022, 07:43 PM #54
Hey John, I ain’t going to learn much if people don't tell me what they think !
I went and carefully checked the lathe tool ! It's very hard to tell if it was rubbing, I do know that it was a fraction over centre, maybe half a mm. Originally it was a piece of 1/2" M42 HSS that had already been ground for another job. In order to get enough reach I reground the end and turned it 90 degrees. I'll get a picture later.
Back shortly:Best Regards:
Baron J.
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30th Apr 2022, 08:59 PM #55Most Valued Member
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No worries John, I put my foot in my mouth that often that sometimes I am unsure whether or not to say anything, then i have the problem of not being gifted with a silver tongue and can maybe come across as being a bit abrupt so sometimes i am hesitant to open my mouth.
I will elaborate a bit more what i see there as i have had that same surface finish often when I am roughing down and the edge has gone on the cutter.
HSS or carbide will give the same look when blunt. even though I am fairly deaf I can normally hear "when" the edge on the cutter dulls off but i will often push on and try to get to the diameter where i will have 3 passes to go, it is at this point when i stop i will see that surface finish pattern, now i grab a new corner on the insert and have 3 cuts to finish.
If the material is a bit gooey then while roughing I also would have pretty much worked out what feeds speed and DOC would give me the best surface finish for the last cut, some materials just won't play and other stuff like 4140 ect are just lovely to machine.
If it is critical that you need a gr8 finish and be spot on the finished size and you have done a bit of roughing then it is often a safe bet to stop and sharpen or turn your insert at 3 cuts from your finished size, or else when it is really really important to get it right you can bet your left knacker that the cutter will lose it's edge during the last cut.
When the cutting edge goes off the surface finish looks like it has been rubbed....because that is what a blunt tool will do.
I say 3 cuts as that will give you enough cutting and measuring to end up at your finished size with a fresh edge on your cutter.
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30th Apr 2022, 09:22 PM #56
Hi John,
Thankyou for your reply and comments ! They are much appreciated
Now that you have pointed out what I should be looking for it makes sense. The pictures below show clearly that there was a rubbing surface and that I should grind the tool back quite a bit more. The chip breaker groove was in there originally.
30-04-2022-001.jpg
This is the setup that I've used, with the tool set well forward at at about 15 degrees or so. Problem with a 6 inch four jaw is that it will hit the saddle if I get too close.
30-04-2022-002.JPG 30-04-2022-003.JPG
These pictures show clearly that there wasn't enough front clearance. The tool face being flat and vertical just above the chip breaker groove.
As far as being diplomatic, don't worry about it. My wife regularly complains that I'm not the most diplomatic person in the world !Best Regards:
Baron J.
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1st May 2022, 08:15 AM #57Most Valued Member
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I would have to agree with you Shed. As said before, I get that finish from time to time and because I use alot of scrap metal whos type and grade maybe questionable, often my tool geometry may not be ideal.
Last thing you want to do is reshape or resharpen your tool for a final dimensional pass. You need 3 passes up your sleeve to sneak up to your final dimension.
Simon
Sent from a galaxy far far awayGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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1st May 2022, 10:18 PM #58
Hi Simon, Now John, has given me a clue, it is effectively a burnished surface !
The cutting edge on the tool basically doesn't have any clearance so the top edge cuts the material and the thin flat edge effectively smooths it. I must admit that I like the finish, its smooth and nice to the touch. My thoughts are that as the part got smaller more of the flat part of the tool came into contact with the surface.
A good regrinding is in order before I use the tool bit again.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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6th May 2022, 02:35 AM #59
Pully Spindle !
Hi Guys,
I've started work on the spindle for the cast iron pulley !
Not having any suitable stock to make it from I've pressed an M34 8.8 bolt into service. After cutting off the threaded portion, I'm left with the bolt head and just over 110 mm length of the shoulder part. I faced off the embossed lettering and turned off the corners of the hex head. This left me with a 34.7 mm diameter head that I could grip with soft jaws.
05-05-2022-002.JPG 05-05-2022-003.JPG
These two pictures show the part finished shaft fitted into the bearing housing. I've yet to mark and drill the bearing housing and tapping them for the four M6 securing screws
05-05-2022-001.JPG
This is the bolt secured in the lathe chuck using the soft jaws. Note the recess machined into the front. This was done so that I could use a ring to hold the jaws apart whilst I turned the insides the right size for the now round bolt head. I turned the shoulder down to 20 mm and finish lapped the shaft to size. The bearings are a good sliding push fit on the shaft, they were actually quite hard to pull them off by hand.
I also put a centre in the end just in case. I will put a centre in the other end when I turn it down for a press fit into the pulley bore.
More later:Best Regards:
Baron J.
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9th May 2022, 03:38 AM #60
Large Bearing housing.
Hi Guys,
I've now drilled the backplate for the bearing housing, and drilled and tapped the bearing housing for M6 CSK screws. These screws hold the bearing housing to the backplate and in turn support the spindle that will be pressed into the pulley.
08-05-2022-001.JPG 08-05-2022-002.JPG
This is the finished bearing housing complete with the M6 screws that will be used to secure it. I'm going to have to put the housing back into the four jaw chuck so that I can turn another couple of mm off the diameter ! A case of not quite getting my measurement right. The screw holes were intended to to be clear of the small diameter of the body.
Anyway it fits nicely on the backplate, I just need to countersink the screw holes in the backplate and then I can get on with sorting out the small bearing housing.
More to follow:Best Regards:
Baron J.
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