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Thread: Homebrew Slotter project !
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9th Feb 2022, 08:11 PM #16
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9th Feb 2022, 09:49 PM #17Most Valued Member
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- Nov 2017
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- Geelong, Australia
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You can buy inserts specifically for poly vee belts:
https://www.carbideanddiamondtooling....Rake.DorNotch
Might be a little exxy for a one off though….
Steve
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10th Feb 2022, 03:39 AM #18
Hi Steve,
Thanks for your post and that very useful link !
It contains a lot of information that I was unaware of. Particularly that the size of the "V" changed with different belt designations and required a different insert !Best Regards:
Baron J.
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11th Feb 2022, 03:00 AM #19
Pulley nearly there !
Hi Guys,
I've finally faced both sides of the pulley and faced the edge and bored out the centre to 28.5 mm. A couple of pictures to show the finish on the edge and in the bore !
10-02-2022-003.jpg 10-02-2022-002.jpg
This first picture shows the very coarse grain of the cast iron on the edge, the second the much finer finish in the bore. Ignore the threads, they’re on the faceplate underneath.
10-02-2022-001.JPG
These are the bit of bronze and the 20 mm diameter bar that I intend to use for the shaft that the pulley will rotate on. The bit of bronze will be mounted on a mandrel to be turned to size for a press fit in the pulley.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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11th Feb 2022, 08:41 PM #20Most Valued Member
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- May 2011
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- Murray Bridge S Aust.
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Nice work, now I know how to do my chuck backing plate.
Sorry, tis a bit late, but I found these on Alibuba, several different sizes and prices, and they do 2 at a time too. Might help someone else in the future though.
https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...547dVqrzbb&s=p
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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11th Feb 2022, 09:16 PM #21Most Valued Member
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- Aug 2011
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- Melbourne
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Alibuba?
Sent from a galaxy far far awayGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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11th Feb 2022, 09:17 PM #22Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
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- Melbourne
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- 4,779
Sorry, I'm a couple bourbons deep atm....
Sent from a galaxy far far awayGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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11th Feb 2022, 11:41 PM #23
Hi Kryn,
Thanks for your post and that link ! However they don't specify what size of multi "V" belt they are for.
Whilst all the multi "V" belts I've found are 40 degree groove angle, the spacing between the grooves varies with the belt size/width. Until I know which size belt I'm going to use the double "V" insert doesn't help.
The link that Steve provided shows single inserts that you can buy in different widths to suit the belt. The tool holder allows you to stack several inserts together to get the correct groove spacing to suit the belt.
I do wonder whether buying the Chinese inserts and modifying by grinding off one "V" would be a more cost effective option ! As Steve mentioned the USA ones are very pricey.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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12th Feb 2022, 09:00 PM #24Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Perth
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- 134
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13th Feb 2022, 06:34 AM #25
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13th Feb 2022, 07:08 AM #26
Pulley bearing bush made !
Hi Guys,
I'll come up with some drawings soon, I need to find some more material to make the eccentric and sort out a suitable motor and drive belt.
I have now machined the bush to go into the centre of the pulley ! I'm not going to press it in place just yet though.
Some pictures of the machining process first,
12-02-2022-003.jpg
First I had to sort out a bit of bar in order to make a mandrel. The bar is free machining steel with a spigot turned down to 12 mm in order to fit the piece of bronze that I intend to use for the pulley bearing. I drilled and threaded it M6 in order to clamp the bronze piece to it.
12-02-2022-001.JPG
This is the method I used ! A short length of M6 threaded rod with a nut and washer on it.
12-02-2022-002.jpg
The finished outer surface.
12-02-2022-006.jpg 12-02-2022-007.jpg
I swapped the chuck jaws for my home brew soft ones, then machined them to suit the bush diameter and proceeded to machine the bore out to 20 mm in order to suit the 20 mm precision ground bar that I intend to use for the spindle supporting the pulley.
12-02-2022-005.JPG 12-02-2022-008.JPG
These two pictures show the finished bush ready for fitting into the pulley.
12-02-2022-009.jpg 12-02-2022-010.jpg
Showing the fit on the precision bar and in the pulley.
12-02-2022-004.JPG
This last picture shows a four row multi "V" belt. This is the smallest of the multi "V" belts, I intend to use a larger belt with probably 6 rows which is much wider and can handle more power without slipping or getting distressed. The "V" spacing on this one is 1.60 mm, where as the one I want to use is 3.56 mm, its a much more robust belt.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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15th Feb 2022, 02:14 AM #27
Pulley & Eccentric Drawings !
Hi Guys,
I promised some drawings, so here is the first one detailing the Pulley and the Eccentric ! I'm quite sure that I might have missed some details, so if I have just shout out and I'll fill them in or correct any mistakes. I've tried to cover the details in the text along with the drawing.
Drive Eccentric-2.png
The pulley was made from a turned cast iron barbell weight that was nominally 8" inches in diameter. I faced off both sides because the weight was not flat and had a curve on both faces. I clamped the best face to the lathe faceplate using a fluted piece of cardboard to avoid distorting the faceplate when clamped the barbel weight to it. I drilled and threaded two M10 holes 180 degrees apart so that I could fasten it without using clamps.
The faced dimensions are 18 mm thick and 180 mm diameter. I haven't put the poly "V" belt grooves on yet so they are not shown. The spindle is 20 mm diameter. The drawing shows a 3 mm keyway which is not used. All the small holes shown in purple are drilled 5 mm and threaded M6. There are two guide plates one on either side of the eccentric, shown in purple on the right side of the drawing. The guide plates and the eccentric are made from 12 mm thick mild steel. The slot in the eccentric is machined to slide on M6 CSK hex socket screws. A 90 degree carbide wood router cutter was used to cut the Vs in the slot for the CSK screws.
A 20 mm diameter steel pin takes a 6004 ball race and is welded into the eccentric plate from the backside. The ball race is 20 mm bore by 42 mm diameter and 12 mm thick.
I've still a lot of work to do so I will take pictures and do drawings as I proceed.
Thanks for looking.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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20th Feb 2022, 08:43 PM #28
Hi Guys,
This project is temporarily on hold !
Mill motor is overheating ! So job stopped until I can sort it out.
Normal service will be resumed ! Soon.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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14th Mar 2022, 06:37 AM #29
Some parts machined !
Hi Guys,
I've now got the mill sorted out and running again ! So I've taken the opportunity to mill some pieces of black bar to size.
13-03-2022-001.jpg 13-03-2022-002.jpg
The parts resting on the drive wheel are the two side plates for the eccentric drive plate. The first picture shows how they will be arranged, the second picture shows the flycut edges of the three parts.
An odd thing is the bronze bush that was supposed to be a press fit in the pulley bore, is now a finger tight push fit. I'm not sure why this has happened !
Anyway the next job is to mark the pieces out for drilling and hole boring. I propose to do the eccentric plate first and then the side plates.
More to follow.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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17th Mar 2022, 03:41 AM #30
Eccentric Assembly started.
Hi Guys,
I've done some more on the pulley and eccentric.
16-03-2022-003.jpg 16-03-2022-002.JPG 16-03-2022-001.JPG
After drilling a 19 mm diameter hole and then boring it out for a press fit 20 mm diameter pin that will be used to support a 6004-2RS bearing. I then counter sunk the hole for the weld that will be used to make sure that the pin cannot move or work its way out in use.
Since I don't have a counter sink large enough to put a 45 degree bevel on the edge of the hole, I used a 45 degree wood router bit. These three pictures show it in used and the finished hole. I ran the router bit at 450 rpm with a drop of Trefolex as a cutting lubricant. It did smoke a little, but you can see the result.
Note that this is a 1/4" shank cutter and needs to be well supported in the chuck to prevent the risk of bending the shank.
16-03-2022-004.jpg
This picture shows the eccentric set in place using a piece of plastic bar as a locater pin with the two guides ready for marking out and drilling. That slot is 8 mm wide to clear M8 screws. I haven't decided yet whether to countersink the edges of the slot or to use inverted "T" nuts with cap screws.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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