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  1. #106
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    Thanks Joe, Techo.

    Well I did some more work since last posting.

    As Joe reported, the guideway that shaft slides up and back on is a "generous" fit, allowing enough radial movement to be annoying. The guide blocks are very good fit so there is no noticeable slop but this small amount of rotational freedom may pose an issue and needs to be fixed. Easy done. Shimming under the guide insert by the required amount fixes this issue. Joe reported a 0.3mm shim was right for him, I only had 0.125mm stock so two of these totalling 0.25mm seemed to fix mine.

    Shim placement;


    I initially placed the shim stock directly under the guide plate but I found the guide plate rocked side to side and was not satisfactory. So I made a couple of 90 degree angle shim strips and placed them each side under the shoulders. This gave me a very positive feel and left no noticeable rotational (radial) freedom.

    Stroke adjustment;

    since I'm reasonably happy with the design of the adjustment mechanism, I opted for two opposing access holes. 8mm end mill gave a generous amount of room to get an Allen key in there. In use, I envisage having two T handle Allen keys and stroke adjustment using both Allen keys would seem reasonably straight forward. M6 grub screws have a 1mm pitch so each turn changes the stroke length by 2mm.

    I'm yet to make the spacer so I test fitted the assembly using four matching nuts as a spacer to separate the two halves and screwed the case halves together.

    Nervously, I plugged the it into the power point and gently squeezed the variable speed power trigger. All seemed to go well. No weird noises, no rubbing or fouling of moving parts! In fact it sounds like it did before I modified it which I'm happy with.

    The two opposing access holes work well for stroke adjustment.

    The four nuts used as spacers are approx. 5.75mm thick so a 6mm spacer or even a 1/8" aluminium spacer should do the job. A bit thicker than Joe's 5mm spacer but I'm happy with it.

    Next will be the spacer and then the blade attachment. These should be pretty straight forward. I'm hoping the design challenges are mostly behind me now. It will all come down to reliability after a few hours of use.

    Oh, I will also have to make a hand grip too.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  2. #107
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
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    3,102

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    Looks like you are getting it sorted Simon!
    I'm going to follow your lead now with the two grub screws. The capture mechanism on mine has already let go.....
    Since my dovetail is long enough, I'll slice a piece off it to make the fixed block.

    Here is a CAD model of the original Biax blade holder for your info. I'll attach a dimensioned drawing below.

    Biax_Blade_clamp v1.jpg

    I'll try my hand at making one to bolt to my adapter.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  3. #108
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    Thats a bugger Joe!

    Wrt the blade holder, I was just going to fashion any old thing to attach but it does make sense to make it the same as a biax and make it compatible with biax blades.



    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

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    Hi Guys,

    Just my 2pW so just ignore my comments here !

    Looking at the nice pictures of Joe's dovetail adjustment with two grub screws, it occurred to me that since there is enough room under the drive pin to drill and thread right through the dovetail and enough room to put retaining circlips on the adjustment screw to prevent sideways movement. Then a single screw could be used to adjust the position of the dovetail and the drive pin locked in place by the threaded hole and adjusting screw thread. It might be a better balance arrangement as well.

    Adjustment.png
    Not to scale !

    This drawing shows what I mean. The red lines represent a pair of circlips preventing the screwed rod from moving thus forcing the dovetail to move left or right by turning the screw. The green areas are drilled to clear M6.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #110
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    Melbourne
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    Hi Baron,

    You can't drill all the way through the dovetail from one end to the other because the there is a 7mm pin that is housed through the top.

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Cut the raw material for the Biax-type blade holder and will attempt to machine it tonight....
    Next I'll have to revise the dovetail adjustment in line with Simon's. Mine let go and scraped along the circular cutout in the spacer plate..... So the single-sided idea is not reliable. Insufficient strength in the retaining mechanism with a pin..... so dual opposing grub screws is the solution.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  7. #112
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    Didn't get as far as i had hoped, but a good start...
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  8. #113
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    That's looking great Joe.

    Is that hardened steel or oil blackened?

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #114
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    Hey Joe,

    I've sourced some small stock for these parts and will make a start tomorrow morning.

    Question; in your drawings you show no dimensions for the hole separation for the part that bolts into the actual power tool. As in the part with the M5 threaded hole and the other two countersunk holes...

    Regards,

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  10. #115
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Made a start.....

    And then miscalculated and stuffed it!

    Biax/Bunax making group project

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #116
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    That's looking great Joe.

    Is that hardened steel or oil blackened?

    Simon
    Neither Simon... just dark in the workshop.... it's just a slice of 4130....

    The two 5mm mounting holes are at 10mm centres. Sorry. And the width of the Biax blades is 20mm. Forgot that dimension too.... the position of the Blade clamp screw is not important, it goes in a slot in the blade.
    The odd angular geometry of the cover seems to be to clamp a 4mm rubber square with a little less compression at the end, so the blade can flaex a little up in use.
    The main dimension you need to check is the total width: 26mm is the gap in the Makita case of my saw. It may be different on yours!
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  12. #117
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    Hi Joe,

    Thanks. I figured the width was 20 mm and the wall thickness of the sides of the clamp being 3mm.

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #118
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    Today I made part of the blade attachment.

    I stuffed up again. Countersunk the M5 hole which I shouldn't have done. It won't affect its operation but it annoys me that I did it!

    Not sure what type of steel this is but it was a pleasure to machine. Definitely not MS, maybe it's Duraflex (is that 1045?)

    Just have to make the clamp and then the attachment to the round shaft on the tool.

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #119
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    In the hope that noone has made the clamp for the biax blade yet: I made a dimension error! The right hand 'taller' feet are shown as 10mm in my drawing - it is actually 12mm... Sorry.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  15. #120
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    No problems Joe.

    I haven't made that part yet.

    I see what you mean about the clearance inside the end of the tool.

    I'm going to have to make the attachment part (part that the clamp assembly attaches to) as a part that slides onto the round shaft and extends out a little before terminating into a flat surface that will have the two threaded holes at 10mm centres.

    The other option would be to completely cut/machine off the end shroud part that extends past the oil seal.

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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