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  1. #76
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    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    72
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    1. Are you planning on making the case spacer 8mm as well?

    2. How are you planning on making this spacer? Just tracing it out and cutting by hand?

    4. What materials are you planning to make the dovetail assembly out of?
    Re 1.: Yes. Although for reasons of accident, my dovetail disk ended up 7mm thick.... I'll see if the disk is still strong enough with just a 1mm base, given it is now held to the crownwheel by three screws... On my Makita saw, the eccentric bearing doesn't engage fully in the scotch yoke. Have a look at yours to see if that is the case there too. I will measure the required spacer thickness once I have a trial assembly. I think I may be able to get away with just a 6mm case spacer.

    2.: I think just tracing off the cases and cutting on the bandsaw by hand; maybe drill some holes for tight internal radii. I .might even explore a perimeter groove for O-ring material gasket similar to the original.

    3: I made the disk with eccentric pin out of some scrap tool steel of unknown grade (not HSS). I don;t intend to harden it since it is already pretty tough (hence the accidental dimension change mentioned in 1. above. The slide will be a bit of O1A I happen to have and I intend to harden it once machined. Probably surface grind it carefully to fit tight into the slot, so that I don't need any adjustment or gib. The reason for the good steel and hardening is that I don't want it to wear and I want it to hold the press fit bearing pin very accurately and tightly.

    The dovetail disk is made and fitted now. The hold-up of the dovetail slot if that I had to grind a small dovetail cutter. It ended up 14mm across at the broad end and 60 deg included angle. We'll see how it works. It looks fragile.....

    IMG_20220205_003653_934.jpg
    IMG_20220205_003715_358.jpg
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Thanks for the details Joe.

    In the meantime I have made some progress of my own.

    You are correct about the pin and yoke engagement. The pin does not fully engage. I measure a 2mm nominal gap, which I plan on exploiting.

    I have made my dovetail assembly 10.0mm thick, allowing a dovetail slide of 8mm and keeping the base 2mm.

    In order to accommodate the extra 2mm, I have ground the top of the crown wheel by 2mm. This means the needle bearing will sit 2mm proud. So the 2mm thick base of the dovetail assembly has an 18mm hole bored. This allows for a light press fit the the protruding needle bearing to house and locate in the dovetail.

    So the dovetail assembly will be located using the needle bearing, the 7mm dowel pin and two machine screws on each side.

    I'm hoping to get away with a 6mm spacer between the two cases.

    Simon





    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    4,779

    Default Biax/Bunax making group project

    Pic
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Riddells Creek, Vic.
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    831

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    Looking good guys, keep up the good work.

  5. #80
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    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    That looks great Simon! Halfway there. Did you already have a small dovetail cutter? How wide is your slot? I see you drilled and tapped the adjuster hole before you milled the slot. Good strategy!
    I won't get a chance to do my dovetail slot or dovetail until Friday now...
    Also Simon: Have a look at your housing around above and around the crown wheel. I think you may be able to accommodate the dovetail slide sticking out a bit when in the longest stroke setting. That would make the assembly more rigid and allows a longer slide than anticipated originally.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  6. #81
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks Techo, Joe.

    Joe, yes I have 2 dovetail cutters of varying sizes. The one I used a 60 degx25mm is almost a bit too big but my other one is definitely too small.

    Yep, I read your order of operations and saw that you were going to drill & tap the hole before the dovetail and that made sense to me.

    I worked out why my assembly took up more room than anticipated, I left some extra meat on the plate that I forgot to face and surface grind down after finishing everything else!

    I'm yet to drill 2 holes in the crown wheel as you have done.

    I tried what Michael suggested, Sharpening a masonry bit but that didn't touch it. I'll try something again today...

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Simon, Guys,

    You need to grind your masonry drill tip using the same profile as a HSS drill.

    This picture is of one of mine !

    05-02-2022-007.JPG 05-02-2022-009.jpg

    I bought forty drills of four sizes very cheaply when a local distributor shut down and disposed of their stock. Not bad for a fiver (Ł5).
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #83
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks Baron, I sharpened a masonry bit using my drill doctor but it didn't work!

    Yea yea I know, not everyone is a fan of the DD!

    But I thought it should have worked.

    Anyway, in bunnings this morning I had a look at their drill bits and found a Sutton drill that has (I assume) extra cobalt. It states they are suitable for high carbon steel, so for $10 I bought a 5mm bit.

    It took a fair amount of drill press pressure but I think it will actually drill it.

    I'll need to put it on the mill in order to accurately drill the two required holes. I may try that tomorrow.

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #84
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    Jan 2016
    Location
    Wodonga Vic
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    38
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    633

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    Is the drill bit in a pink packet? I drill a lot of 50mm deep 5mm thermocouple holes in inconel 718, 945, Rene 41, waspaloy etc.. with those drill bits.

    I reckon they’re your best chance other than carbide.

    do those drill doctors have silly carbide grinding wheels in them?

  10. #85
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    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by NedsHead View Post
    Is the drill bit in a pink packet? I drill a lot of 50mm deep 5mm thermocouple holes in inconel 718, 945, Rene 41, waspaloy etc.. with those drill bits.

    I reckon they’re your best chance other than carbide.

    do those drill doctors have silly carbide grinding wheels in them?
    Yep.

    And yes the DD has a silicon carbide wheel. They are designed to sharpen masonry bits.

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #86
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Yep.

    And yes the DD has a silicon carbide wheel. They are designed to sharpen masonry bits.

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Here's the packet

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  12. #87
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Ok. I can confirm that those cobalt drill bits drill through those crown wheels easily enough.

    Although 5mm is a bit large for the job!

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #88
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    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Finally caught up with you, Simon Biax/Bunax making group project
    Managed to do the radial adjuster thread and my female dovetail tonight.
    Mail dovetail and adjuster screw next week...
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  14. #89
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Hey Joe, that's looking like a bought one, as usual a great job!

    You're ahead of me now. Your comment about having some more hang room got me thinking and I ended up making another dovetail disc, a little larger in diameter. 60mm.

    Made it out of a piece of hydraulic ram shaft. Once I removed the hardened chrome surface, it machined nicely. It's perhaps of similar grade to Duraflex?

    Anyway, it proved to be the final straw for my cheapie Chinese carbon steel dovetail cutter!

    I have had to order another one. It is coming from Melbourne so hopefully not a long wait. This one is a little dearer and made from TiN coated HSS. Hopefully will go the distance.

    Next I'll make the male dovetail to fit. Hoping I can make it a nice snug fit so it does not rattle about during use!

    I plan on making a maximum stroke of 20mm (similar to general purpose Biax) which means a 0 - 10mm adjustment is all that's required. Your thoughts?

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  15. #90
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Yes, that's how I see it too old. I was thinking around 7 to 8mm adjustment from 1mm radius of the eccenter bearing to 8 or 9mm = 2mm to 14-16mm Scraper blade throw.
    Hydraulic rams are often 4140. That's pretty tough on cutters.
    Anyway, we are making some interesting prototypes for others to follow.
    A group build sees to have stalled for now. Never mind, our builds will lead others down the rabbit hole.

    I've got lots of other things going on with reducing my workshop and project list into a transportable state as we are selling our place in the next couple of months....
    So this project is limited to one night a week for now.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

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