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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    470

    Default DIY sandblasting cabinet

    Been wanting a sandblasting cabinet for a long time, got some some pocket money to spend so Had a look at the H&F cabinet and not to my liking. So done some research on the web and found one chap who made his own and watch the video on how he made it and i was sold. So stated welding up the frame and cut steel sheets for the hopper.

    IMG_8696.jpgIMG_8697.jpgIMG_8698.jpgIMG_8699.jpg

  2. #2
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Welded up the hopper, it went a bit pear shape don't know why i check my measurements and were correct . Anyway i got it to fit into the frame.

    IMG_8701.jpgIMG_8704.jpgIMG_8705.jpgIMG_8706.jpgIMG_8707.jpgIMG_8708.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    5,942

    Default

    Thanks for the WIP on this, will be watching with great interest as I'd like one myself, once I get a larger compressor.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #4
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Thanks for the WIP on this, will be watching with great interest as I'd like one myself, once I get a larger compressor.
    Kryn
    Hi Kryn,
    No worries mate, this should be a straight forward project. Those Chinese cabinets need to have some mods to get them working right, which i look at and would need to spend at lest $200 extra on top of the sale price. So i decided to make one from scratch and i know it will work OK.

    Cheers,
    Mark

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Western Sydney
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    262

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbine Builder View Post
    Welded up the hopper, it went a bit pear shape don't know why i check my measurements and were correct . Anyway i got it to fit into the frame.
    Nice work looks industrial , what's the volume capacity ? seams look good , how did you weld them up , was it stitched or done in one hit , mig or stick ?

  6. #6
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    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    2,651

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    I’ve got one of the el cheap Bunnings bench top ones.
    Already I can see that yours has a much deeper hopper and steeper sides.
    If you can explain the benefits of the various features as you go along would be really useful.

    Steve

  7. #7
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iron triangle View Post
    Nice work looks industrial , what's the volume capacity ? seams look good , how did you weld them up , was it stitched or done in one hit , mig or stick ?
    Thanks, I stitched weld first with mig. I think i should have welded the hopper sheets together in the frame.

  8. #8
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    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    470

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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    I’ve got one of the el cheap Bunnings bench top ones.
    Already I can see that yours has a much deeper hopper and steeper sides.
    If you can explain the benefits of the various features as you go along would be really useful.

    Steve
    Hear is the video of the build, i purchase the Sketch for 10 euros. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cydrlW58yCE

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
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    6,446

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbine Builder View Post
    Welded up the hopper, it went a bit pear shape don't know why
    No worries! It has not come out too bad at all. Its not like the Queen will come in next week for an inspection is it?

    For next time the trick to minimise distortion in sheet metal fabbed items is to minimise the heat input and spread the heat inputs to make the distortion work in your favour.
    A thing to consider is mig gun access between leg and hopper at the top.

    The hopper ,tacked on frame helps make the hopper cone more rigid and resistant to warping. Helps! I said but not 100% so.


    When all is tacked up the idea is to lay a short bead,say something like 100mm long and move to the diagonal opposite and lay a similar bead.

    Move 90 degrees to the next unwelded hopper joint and lay another 100mm bead and then move to its diagonal opposite and weld 100 mm bead.

    Rinse and repeat as the Americans say. At the finish- if you have to grind excess weld metal off is was too much metal deposited.

    The less metal deposited there is, the less there is to shrink and distort.

    Anyway who said the hopper has to be full seam welded- again ! less metal-less distortion

    Don't let the weld cool out between doing the those short beads as you need to move to the opposite to take advantage of the contraction to opposing bead.


    One cooling bead counteracts the other.

    Lincoln electric had a cartoon of the principals of weld distortion ,made in WW2. Have to shut down now storm coming.

    regards
    Grahame

  10. #10
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    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    No worries! It has not come out too bad at all. Its not like the Queen will come in next week for an inspection is it?

    For next time the trick to minimise distortion in sheet metal fabbed items is to minimise the heat input and spread the heat inputs to make the distortion work in your favour.
    A thing to consider is mig gun access between leg and hopper at the top.

    The hopper ,tacked on frame helps make the hopper cone more rigid and resistant to warping. Helps! I said but not 100% so.


    When all is tacked up the idea is to lay a short bead,say something like 100mm long and move to the diagonal opposite and lay a similar bead.

    Move 90 degrees to the next unwelded hopper joint and lay another 100mm bead and then move to its diagonal opposite and weld 100 mm bead.

    Rinse and repeat as the Americans say. At the finish- if you have to grind excess weld metal off is was too much metal deposited.

    The less metal deposited there is, the less there is to shrink and distort.

    Anyway who said the hopper has to be full seam welded- again ! less metal-less distortion

    Don't let the weld cool out between doing the those short beads as you need to move to the opposite to take advantage of the contraction to opposing bead.


    One cooling bead counteracts the other.

    Lincoln electric had a cartoon of the principals of weld distortion ,made in WW2. Have to shut down now storm coming.

    regards
    Grahame
    Thanks Grahame LOL! when i said pear shape it was really bad, didn't take any photos of the hopper to embarrassing I had to work at it for a while and got it sorted out and then it would not fit into the frame So use some G clamps and force the hopper into the frame bit of the hopper sticking out so just grind if flat against the top of the frame work. Once i tack the corners in then tack weld all along under the hopper. Then i notice the frame is twisted, pack some washers under one of the caster wheels to make it all level you can see it in one of the photos. I welded a plate at the bottom of the hopper instead having the trap door to release the blast media, less chance of leaking media

  11. #11
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    Jan 2016
    Location
    Wodonga Vic
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    38
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    633

    Default

    Looking good so far

    I've seen some old fridges converted into pretty decent sand blasting cabinets, being a cheapskate I'll probably take that route when I eventually make one

  12. #12
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by NedsHead View Post
    Looking good so far

    I've seen some old fridges converted into pretty decent sand blasting cabinets, being a cheapskate I'll probably take that route when I eventually make one
    Thanks mate I seen 44 Gal drums been used for blasting cabinets as well

  13. #13
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    May 2021
    Location
    Surrey
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    14

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    Quote Originally Posted by NedsHead View Post
    Looking good so far

    I've seen some old fridges converted into pretty decent sand blasting cabinets, being a cheapskate I'll probably take that route when I eventually make one
    I did just that several years ago, found a fly tipped under counter fridge, my kids thought I’d gone mad, well…….. ripped almost everything off, reused the interior light at first, junked that for a fluorescent. I cut arm holes in the door and a window, glass fixed with gaffer tape. I used some old OHP polyester film as a sacrificial window cover so when the plastic gets too opaque it’s easy to change. The gloves were regular pvc coated cotton long gloves, held in place by C shaped lengths of 30mm wide parcel strapping I salvaged centuries ago, but works fine. The gun is a commercial Guyson and the air is fed through an eBay foot pedal.
    the entire effort stands on a couple of Inverted T shaped lumps of timber screwed through at each end. It nearly took longer to post this than make!

  14. #14
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    Sep 2006
    Location
    Mallacoota,VIC,Australia
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    Default

    Looks good and I'm looking forward to seeing the progress. I started building one myself many years ago, but haven't finished it I will one day. The one I started making is based on blastoff abrasive industrial cabinet. What sandblast gun are you thinking of using ?.
    All The Best steran50 Stewart

    The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.

  15. #15
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by steran50 View Post
    Looks good and I'm looking forward to seeing the progress. I started building one myself many years ago, but haven't finished it I will one day. The one I started making is based on blastoff abrasive industrial cabinet. What sandblast gun are you thinking of using ?.
    Thanks mate I got the H&F #1~7 sandblasting gun and will use a knee switch instead of a foot switch for compress air delivery to the gun.

    Cheers,
    Mark.

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