Needs Pictures: 0
Results 1 to 13 of 13
Thread: oil can
-
1st Nov 2021, 09:54 PM #1Golden Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2001
- Location
- ACT
- Posts
- 667
oil can
Just found this site talking about the eagle 66 oil can and someone making a clone of it, the page has a pdf plan at post #6 https://www.homemodelenginemachinist...oil-can.26811/
not sure if it will work https://www.homemodelenginemachinist...015-pdf.89047/
looks ok, might have to make one.
-
2nd Nov 2021, 08:34 PM #2Golden Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2001
- Location
- ACT
- Posts
- 667
an originalvintage-eagle-66-oil.jpg
and one basically made to the plan vintage-eagle-66-oil replica1 .jpg
-
4th Nov 2021, 02:41 PM #3Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,894
Soldered seams at the bottom of the can tend to become leaky.
-
4th Nov 2021, 03:22 PM #4Golden Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2001
- Location
- ACT
- Posts
- 667
I am sure you are right about soldered seams.
I think the original eagle 66 didn’t have soldered seams at the bottom and was pressed or formed from one piece.
The clone is meant to be sealed with loctite or you could do a press fit I guess
-
4th Nov 2021, 06:01 PM #5Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,540
Had a look at this today and started pricing up some of the materials - if you haven't got the brass sitting around doing nothing, it's not going to be cheap. Might have to think about this one...
Michael
-
4th Nov 2021, 09:47 PM #6Golden Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2001
- Location
- ACT
- Posts
- 667
have seen a few made with just a brass tube and everything else aluminium, may be lighter that way also.
Michael, think you are already doing me a favour on the rotary tables, so if you want some 2 inch brass tube for the oil can let me know and I'll post you some.
-
5th Nov 2021, 06:59 AM #7Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,540
Thanks for the offer, but someone I know has the tube if I need it. The top, bottom and pump body are the bits that are the bits that I think will cost for solid brass. At the moment I'm thinking steel for those bits, perhaps plated or painted.
Michael
-
5th Nov 2021, 03:10 PM #8Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- melbourne australia
- Posts
- 3,228
-
5th Nov 2021, 06:23 PM #9Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,540
Probably more the length of joint. A soldered pipe joint is probably 10mm long(?) where as some ofthese solder joints can be a mm or so - effectively a line. Work does electronics and the electronic techs and engineers are always concerned about any joints being over an area rather than a line. Soft solder I know, but apparently solder does not handle fatigue well, so if there is not adequate support for a joint it can fail.
A pipe joint would mainly be loaded in shear too, where as a right angle joint (side to base) is probably loaded more as a peel joint.
Michael
-
5th Nov 2021, 08:35 PM #10Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- melbourne australia
- Posts
- 3,228
-
30th Nov 2021, 11:32 AM #11Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Athelstone, SA 5076
- Posts
- 4,255
-
30th Nov 2021, 05:50 PM #12Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,540
Personally I'm welding mine. No problems with solder joints anticipated...
DSCN8577 (Small).JPG
Michael
-
30th Nov 2021, 06:42 PM #13Golden Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2001
- Location
- ACT
- Posts
- 667
looking good there Michael.
I haven't started mine yet but have the plans on my bench and think I have most of the materials. just need to make time to do it.