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Thread: oil can

  1. #1
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    Default oil can

    Just found this site talking about the eagle 66 oil can and someone making a clone of it, the page has a pdf plan at post #6 https://www.homemodelenginemachinist...oil-can.26811/

    not sure if it will work https://www.homemodelenginemachinist...015-pdf.89047/

    looks ok, might have to make one.

  2. #2
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    an originalvintage-eagle-66-oil.jpg

    and one basically made to the plan vintage-eagle-66-oil replica1 .jpg

  3. #3
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    Default

    Soldered seams at the bottom of the can tend to become leaky.

  4. #4
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    Default

    I am sure you are right about soldered seams.

    I think the original eagle 66 didn’t have soldered seams at the bottom and was pressed or formed from one piece.

    The clone is meant to be sealed with loctite or you could do a press fit I guess

  5. #5
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    Default

    Had a look at this today and started pricing up some of the materials - if you haven't got the brass sitting around doing nothing, it's not going to be cheap. Might have to think about this one...

    Michael

  6. #6
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    have seen a few made with just a brass tube and everything else aluminium, may be lighter that way also.

    Michael, think you are already doing me a favour on the rotary tables, so if you want some 2 inch brass tube for the oil can let me know and I'll post you some.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the offer, but someone I know has the tube if I need it. The top, bottom and pump body are the bits that are the bits that I think will cost for solid brass. At the moment I'm thinking steel for those bits, perhaps plated or painted.

    Michael

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    Soldered seams at the bottom of the can tend to become leaky.
    Odd. Soldered water pipes can remain leak free for decades, even under pressure. Is that something to do with additives in the oil leaching the tin out of the solder?
    Chris

  9. #9
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    Probably more the length of joint. A soldered pipe joint is probably 10mm long(?) where as some ofthese solder joints can be a mm or so - effectively a line. Work does electronics and the electronic techs and engineers are always concerned about any joints being over an area rather than a line. Soft solder I know, but apparently solder does not handle fatigue well, so if there is not adequate support for a joint it can fail.
    A pipe joint would mainly be loaded in shear too, where as a right angle joint (side to base) is probably loaded more as a peel joint.

    Michael

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    A pipe joint would mainly be loaded in shear too, where as a right angle joint (side to base) is probably loaded more as a peel joint.
    Possibly. Might be a good idea to make the side to base a capillary joint.
    Chris

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    Soldered seams at the bottom of the can tend to become leaky.
    my dad says BS...He's dead but I swear I heard him say it

  12. #12
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    Personally I'm welding mine. No problems with solder joints anticipated...
    DSCN8577 (Small).JPG

    Michael

  13. #13
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    looking good there Michael.

    I haven't started mine yet but have the plans on my bench and think I have most of the materials. just need to make time to do it.

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