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Thread: Powered workshop press build
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1st Nov 2020, 09:10 PM #31Most Valued Member
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Powered workshop press build
Finally got a chance to get to the steel supplier and get some flat for the ram mount.
Hacked out a rough hole with oxy-lpg torch and bored it to take the cylinder.
For those who think carbide can’t ever handle an interrupted cut, this was a rough hacked flame cut hole. I gave the insert a touch up on the grinder when the bore was about 90% cleaned up as it was getting a bit dull. It already had the ground face and edges - I was just dressing them.
Steve
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2nd Nov 2020, 01:23 AM #32
Hi Steve,
I like how you have ground the insert, very much like I would have ground a HSS tool bit.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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2nd Nov 2020, 08:08 AM #33Most Valued Member
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Thanks John.
I can’t take the credit for the grind or the boring bar. They came with the boring head when I bought it off another member here.
It definitely works well and has been very durable. The flame cut edge of this hole would have been very hard on a HSS tool.
Steve
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2nd Nov 2020, 10:58 PM #34Most Valued Member
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Powered workshop press build
Welded the channel to the lower plate, and machined the bottom side of the upper mount blocks so they sit snugly on the top of the ram with the pin fitted.
Here’s a photo with the mount plates 90deg from where they will end up.
What’s now obvious is the fluid fittings need to be at 90 degrees to the mount blocks as there wont be enough clearance between the fittings and the side plates as is.
I was thinking about blanking the existing ones and welding on some new ones in the right place, then realized the much easier fix is to cut off the cylinder mount lug, rotate it 90 deg and weld it back on!
Steve
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3rd Nov 2020, 02:37 AM #35
Hi Steve,
Can you not just use a 90 degree elbow on them and turn the top cylinder one through 180 degrees ?
That would get you away from the side plates without a cutting / welding job.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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3rd Nov 2020, 09:25 PM #36Most Valued Member
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Powered workshop press build
Unfortunately not John.
Here’s a photo of some 16mm thick flat where the side plate will be. About 25mm clearance, and the bosses on the cylinder protrude about 20mm
Turned out to be an easy fix moving the attachment lug.
Couple of minutes in the bandsaw, quick cleanup with the grinder including beveling the lower edges for welding then glued it back on. Was literally done in under 30 mins
Steve
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4th Nov 2020, 01:53 AM #37
Hi Steve
Thanks for the picture, I didn't quite understand how little space you had there, now I do !
It is coming along nicely. A press for me would be a nice thing to have around. At the moment any bending I need is done with the vise and a hammer.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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4th Nov 2020, 10:07 PM #38Most Valued Member
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Powered workshop press build
Was thinking that things were progressing quite well with the different projects I've got on the go, and that I hadn't had visit from the stuff-up fairies for a few days.
Buggers must have sneaked in while I was asleep!!
So... I'd cut the PFC for the head to length with about 5mm gap for clearance between the upper beams. All good.
But I hadn't allowed for the fact that it was going to get welded to the 20mm plate along that edge. Not so good.
And then I welded it....and it didn't fit. Not good at all
My first thought was to just mill the weld and about 8mm off each end and re-weld, but although that would allow it to fit between the beams it wasn't going to give any sort of positive location of the head fore-aft since the weld would be tapered and there's a slight radius on the outside corners of the channel.
Came up with this solution - mill the existing weld back to the channel face, and cut the center edge back to allow for re-welding there where it won't interfere with the beams.
I'm a bit concerned about having cut the weld back at the high stress point between the channel flange and the lower plate. If I had a dovetail cutter or similar that would have reached in there and undercut the corner I'd have done that so it could be re-welded across the end. Thinking I might have to dig it out with the grinder just at the corner under the vertical flange and weld it.
Also added a cutout to allow the cylinder bosses to pass through the bottom plate as I realised that the mounting lug height was bigger than the clearance between the lower boss and plate, so if I'd welded the side and upper mount plates on as it was the cylinder would be captive!
Mocked up with the side and upper mount plates.
Steve
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6th Nov 2020, 09:57 PM #39Most Valued Member
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Nice when a plan comes together.
Partially welded up and can still get the cylinder out
Started on the support trolley that will ride on top of the upper beams and and carry the ram mount.
Some 2” cam rollers, and a bit of channel which I’ll weld into a rectangular frame. Made some threaded blocks for the roller shafts to screw into.
Have a couple of ideas on how to attach it to the ram mount but haven’t made a final decision. Will need to have a bolted joint somewhere to allow it to be removed.
Steve
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7th Nov 2020, 01:30 AM #40
Hi Steve,
You seem to be progressing very nicely with your press build.
I was at one of the engineering firms that I visit on Monday, they have an "Amarda" 100 ton CNC press brake. The amount of tooling that they have is enormous. I'm told that this thing can fold 6 mm plate and hold work ten feet long. They were making steel tool boxes for flat back wagons whilst I was there. An impressive machine.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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7th Nov 2020, 09:48 PM #41Most Valued Member
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Thanks John.
Yes, those big brake presses are impressive, and so is the price tag on the tooling!
Got some more done today.
Blocks for the cam followers welded in, some clamp bolts fitted to the corners of the carriage and welded it up.
Spent about half an hour with a bottle jack and blocks of wood raising the ram support up to the top beams, through the carriage.
I’ve decided to just use some 8.8 grade M16 bolts to bolt the ram mount to the carriage - 2 bolts either side, one above the other.
Shear strength of the threaded section of each bolt is about 7T, and at most I’ll only get about 20T on the return stroke of the ram if I ever use it for pulling.
Generally the bolts will only have to support the weight of the ram and mount, plus lift the table which is maybe 100kg.
Steve
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7th Nov 2020, 10:05 PM #42Most Valued Member
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It's imPRESSive
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15th Nov 2020, 08:30 PM #43Most Valued Member
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Painted the head area earlier in the week, and got the new cylinder seals installed and put it back together.
Wasn’t planning to paint the cylinder when I did the head but ended up with some leftover paint so painted most of it intending to finish it after the gland end was back on.
As you can see that never happened!
Today I got a chance to hoist the cylinder into the head. Made a washer for one end of the pin and welded that on, and made a retaining collar with locking bolt for the other.
Getting close to hydraulics time
Steve
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16th Nov 2020, 02:45 AM #44
Hi Steve, Guys,
Good job that you have a forklift ! You’ll never shift it otherwise. I wonder just how much it does weigh.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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16th Nov 2020, 06:09 AM #45Most Valued Member
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It will likely never feel the forklift tynes unless I'm dead and my daughters are cleaning up!
The pallet jack works well for moving it though.
Rough "back of an envelope" calc is just over 500kg...
200kg of 250PFC
100kg of 100x20 flat
30kg of SHS for the base
30kg of 150PFC for the head carriage
50kg for the head itself
50kg for the ram
50kg for the misc plates/pins
Steve
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