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Thread: Powered workshop press build
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22nd Nov 2020, 08:44 PM #61Most Valued Member
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The Loctite thread sealant is one of my favourites. I think the one I'm using now is 567 - its a white paste.
If you were closer I'd have definitely taken you up on it. I don't go through a huge amount, probably only one 50ml tube every couple of years.
None of the tapered threads that I used it on leaked, it was the hoses at the ram that I only did the flare nuts up finger tight and didn't go back and tighten....
Steve
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7th Dec 2020, 03:54 PM #62Most Valued Member
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Tidied up the power pack wiring with a 240-110v step down transformer for the valve solenoids and mounted the VFD properly.
Seemed a shame to rip the transformer out of its nice box but it just wouldn’t fit otherwise.
Also made up a fitting for the ram to be able to lift the table.
Works well.
Steve
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13th Dec 2020, 11:10 PM #63
Nice Work
Great job Steve. Seriously impressive.
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29th Jun 2021, 06:39 PM #64Most Valued Member
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Press is still going great and has been getting a bit of use lately, but not directly for metalwork.
It’s helping me keep warm in the workshop though
Steve
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15th Jan 2022, 10:06 AM #65Novice
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Questions
Gidday all, I was already going to build my own press before looking through this thread.
I do have 150 PFC material on hand for the top beams and table 75 x 12 hot rolled for the uprights and various bits and pieces for the base.
I don’t have the material for the pins but holes drilled 1” so 25 mm was my thought.
Hydraulics yet to be finalised but was thinking about a 20T inverted bottle jack ( on hand ),however now thinking a press ram (or gp cylinder )with air assist pump ( don’t seem that expensive ).
Question is are there any hard and fast rules on construction and sizing ?
Could I go up to 30T on that sizing of material?
I am also having a hard time deciding weld or bolted, I don’t pretend to be an expert welder and had thought of tacking it up and taking around the corner to a certified welder
Looking at the offerings from China for 30 T some look absolutely puny where others look massive.
Should I have started a new thread on this ?
Raggsie
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15th Jan 2022, 01:16 PM #66Most Valued Member
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My 30T air over hydraulic came from DTM trading, it’s around or marginally heavier than your proposed dimensions, it’s welded into assemblies and they are bolted together to make the press (and make it smaller for shipping). If you’re looking for cylinders and power units, have a look at DTM trading’s website, Wayne is easy to deal with and also keeps spares for the stuff he sells. I have no affiliation with Wayne or his business other than several positive purchases.
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15th Jan 2022, 11:36 PM #67Most Valued Member
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Hi Raggsie,
Regarding a separate thread - if you've just got a couple of questions then I wouldn't bother, but probably a good idea to start one if you're getting into a build and want to document how you did it and ask specific questions along the way.
So to answer your question - no, there are no hard and fast rules in regards to material sizes for presses, and as you've alluded to there's a big variation in the material sizes of different commercial ones.
The main difference is cost and flex - more material generally means less flex, but more cost.
A bit on flex....
To put it bluntly - flex/spring in a press scares the crap out of me. It results in a huge amount of stored energy that will release VERY quickly if something lets go, and the more things flex the more your vertical pressing force becomes outwards trying to spit things out the sides. Spit something out the side of a flexible press that's at its maximum pressure and you'll likely remember it for a while.
Decide what size work area you want for a start - keep it as small in width/depth as you can while still being able to fit the jobs you want to do in it. The wider you go, the more flex you get for a given size table/head beam.
If you use flats for verticals you can pass shafts through from side to side. Obviously you can't if you use eg PFC for the verticals. Keep in mind that your depth (front-back) between the uprights controls how large a diameter you can get between the beams on the press.
The size of the uprights is mainly determined by the tonnage of the ram, but also has to be rigid enough to support the weight of the press itself and along with anything you put on it.
Bolted or welded - both are OK but best to copy an existing design - particularly for bolt sizes/grade and numbers.
If welding don't make your weld the only thing that is taking the pressing load, eg don't butt weld 2 pieces of flat together to make an upright, or fillet weld the end of the flat onto the underside of the head beam.
Steve
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17th Jan 2022, 06:32 AM #68Diamond Member
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17th Jan 2022, 08:36 AM #69Diamond Member
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Here is an example.
https://www.google.com/search?q=caro...h8sP0z-06uRcSM
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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