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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

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    Quote Originally Posted by tony_A View Post
    J&H would you mind measuring the Sandvik scraper insert please, length and thickness.
    If I can get my lathe to somewhere about the point where you have got yours to then I think I will be happy. I expect it will do all I am likely to ask of it.
    Mine is 20mm wide by 25mm long by 2mm thick. But I'm pretty sure there are different widths, I think the 25mm wide scraper comes with a 25mm wide insert, and I imagine the 30mm wide probably comes with a 30mm wide insert. Not sure if the lengths change. The way the pocket is on the Sandvik, it probably doesn't matter, I think I can run any of the inserts, or flip my insert 90 degrees.

    IMG_20200905_131150_591x1050.jpg

    You'll want some way of sharpening it too, if you've seen Stefans video on making a slow speed grinder (Glendo style), that seems the best way to go to me, and useful for other things. I've made the backing plate part out of a slice of a large round of ally I grabbed at the scrap yard about 8 years ago thinking it would be useful (finally was!) I bought a 4 pack of 150mm diamond discs of eBay for about $20. Think they were 320, 600, 800 and 3000. At this stage, I just run the backing plate on a quick and dirty mount in the collet chuck at 270rpm, although I want to find a suitable motor and build it proper with a work table, as I think it'll be very handy, and allow me to do fancy things with my lathe/mill inserts. The 3000 disc is showing a bit of wear, possibly missing a few diamonds, probably a combination of not using a toolrest, thus occasionally bouncing it a bit, and reprofiling with it when I should really have changed over to a coarser disc. The 320 seems to move material pretty quick, but I also bought an 80, which looks aggressive as hell. Haven't tried it yet, came from Dandenong via NSW over the course of 3 weeks, so by the time it arrived...

    IMG_20200808_173611_1680x945.jpg

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Port Sorell, Tasmania
    Posts
    74

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    Thanks J&H, have seen carbide flat bar on ebay including 20 *2 *200mm for $30. Claimed to be Chinese YG8 grade which is supposedly roughly equivalent to Sandvik H10. Ill order some and see how it goes.
    https://www.federalcarbide.com/tungs...son_chart.html

    As far as sharpening goes I have already convinced myself that I need one of Stefans slow speed honing/grinding machines. There are any number of variable speed, reversing electric motors on aliexpress for around $50. I wouldn't think the motor would need to be very powerful. I have other grinding machines capable of heavy cuts.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

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    Quote Originally Posted by tony_A View Post
    Thanks J&H, have seen carbide flat bar on ebay including 20 *2 *200mm for $30. Claimed to be Chinese YG8 grade which is supposedly roughly equivalent to Sandvik H10. Ill order some and see how it goes.
    https://www.federalcarbide.com/tungs...son_chart.html

    As far as sharpening goes I have already convinced myself that I need one of Stefans slow speed honing/grinding machines. There are any number of variable speed, reversing electric motors on aliexpress for around $50. I wouldn't think the motor would need to be very powerful. I have other grinding machines capable of heavy cuts.
    Which motors were you thinking of using? Most of the ones I can see at that price cost more than that in shipping on top?

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Port Sorell, Tasmania
    Posts
    74

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    This is one example, not sure if it is the best. Im guessing that it would be strong enough. 24V, 470 rpm variable speed 3.4 kg.cm torque, $70 inc postage
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3277...643&fromDetail

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

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    Quote Originally Posted by marcuschrist View Post
    also if I do make it down to Tassy I wouldn't be concerned about Numbers and I don't mind hopping from shop to shop all depending on surface plate availability of course.
    If you do make it down here you're welcome to come & visit, I'm south of Hobart. I'm not interested in a course and have all my own gear including a Biax and 1200 x 900 plate but it's always good to meet someone else into this sort of caper. Couple other local to me interested as well, with their own gear and hands-on practice.

    Hell will freeze over before I have *anything* to do with Facebook though.

    PDW

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Burleigh heads QLD
    Age
    29
    Posts
    114

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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    If you do make it down here you're welcome to come & visit, I'm south of Hobart. I'm not interested in a course and have all my own gear including a Biax and 1200 x 900 plate but it's always good to meet someone else into this sort of caper. Couple other local to me interested as well, with their own gear and hands-on practice.

    Hell will freeze over before I have *anything* to do with Facebook though.

    PDW
    That would be great, I have to admit that we actually used to have en email list to organize meetups but most of the guys had facebook so it took over due to convenience. I think in that changeover we inadvertently excluded a lot of guys in that email list, I actually had one fellow email me recently checking up on things.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

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    A quick little update - when I ran into the issue of my stone not fitting into the dovetails, I dug around on Practical Machinist and found that Richard King recommended a particular stone as his favourite, and linked to MSC. I tracked down the Norton part number at, of all places, RS Online. Now previously I've steered well clear of RS, but lately they seem to keep having what I want at a competitive price. Case in point, they sell this particular Norton stone at $26 including GST, and free shipping. MSC's price for the stone (although they're not overly cheap in the US either) works out to $22AUD. Not bad, considering that my stone shipped from the UK of all places - must have cost them almost as much in shipping as what I paid!

    https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/sharp...d%22%3Atrue%7D

    I was a bit put off by the picture of the white stone, but decided to trust the part number, and indeed what I received today was the correct brown MS24 stone.

    IMG_20200922_163615_1680x945.jpg

    So if someone is gathering tools for scraping, this would be an excellent thing to grab, would have made life much easier when I was doing all the fiddly dovetail work.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    Hi J&H,

    Maybe a silly question, wrt this stone is that so you can de-bur the dovetails after a scraping cycle?

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Hi J&H,

    Maybe a silly question, wrt this stone is that so you can de-bur the dovetails after a scraping cycle?

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Yes, it's for deburring after scraping cycles generally, but being rather thin means it's good for getting into the awkward spots. I believe that this is the stone that Richard King hands out to students at his scraping classes - or as least was at some point, he may have found something new and improved by now.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    341

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    That's quite reasonable. But 200mm thick? That must make it about 400kg? Which brings me to another question, how does one normally deal with lifting a 400kg lump of rock once it's out of the crate? Seems like a horrible thing to try and get slings under, but I can't see any other way of dealing with it. Seems you'd be buggered if it's sitting on any kind of flat surface, how do you lift it up enough to get something under it without levering chunks out of it?
    Very belated reply....

    Weight is ~300kg.

    The answer is with difficulty.

    The difficulty started with the plate getting delivered late one evening by lift gate. I have a long narrow driveway with a grass strip down the middle. So I had built a dolly in preparation, by adding wheels to a pallet. Proceed to have one wheel catch on an expansion joint and end up with pallet / 300kg rock tilted with one wheel buried in grass strip. Now 9pm and raining.
    Fortunately old school works -> car jacks and 2x4s -> managed to get a sheet of MDF under the pallet. Then was able to get wooden dowels under the MDF and then (with a lot of huffing and puffing) was able to drag it down the driveway, moving the dowels from the back to the front ad nauseam. Got it into the shed.

    Then the granite will sit quietly in shame in the middle of the shed right the in the way for some weeks...

    Then getting it from pallet to stand:
    It came boxed up in soft plywood. Easy to remove the surrounds. But the plate was sitting on a flat bit of plywood exactly the size of the bottom of the plate. I ended up driving in wooden wedges which lifted the plate enough to get slings underneath. Then a cheap chain hoist from the big beam in the shed and the plate was airborne.

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