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Thread: Radius Grinding

  1. #16
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi John,

    That ain’t going to flex !
    Nup, also hopefully it won't resonate or vibrate it is about 28.5mm now so it did lose a bit of meat.....

  2. #17
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    Charlestown NSW
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    Nice.
    Glad to see my little contribution has been of use. Better than going to landfill.
    Peter

  3. #18
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    Default Position stops

    Here are some more bits for the puzzle.
    I will be happy when this stage 4 lock down is over as I am starting to have to make or modify things that I would normally just duck down the shop to get, here I only needed a long cap screw and a spacer but as I am in jail I had to make one.....
    I gave the bits a squirt with $2 shop machinery gray and assembled it and put oil in the spindle, no leaks yet so fingers crossed there, the sliding door is stainless.
    I ditched the idea of using felt for a cover seal when I tripped over an o ring, as you can see it is the perfect size....
    I am waiting for a couple of micrometer heads to arrive so I think I will wait till they get here before I make the mounting plate
    that will bolt on the flange at the top.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #19
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    Default Microscope mounting

    Hi fella's, here are some pics of the microscope mounting and a couple of pics of inserts that are viewed from the microscope
    to my mobile phone. The scale/ruler on the reticle has .1mm graduations.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #20
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    Sep 2012
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    Hi John, Guys,

    Really nice ! I Like the microscope assembly in particular. I have one of those USB microscopes, I'd not thought of making a housing for it, could be very useful. I wonder where you got the reticle from.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi John, Guys,

    I wonder where you got the reticle from.
    Hi John, I got that out of an Igaging loupe kit that I have but you can get them from aliexpress,

    search "microscope reticle"

  7. #22
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    Default Platen work table

    Hi fella's, a bit of an update and some pics.
    For a start I think this should work for me, if I'm not happy I can change it or even just make a different work table to suit whatever, a work holding clamp will likely be something like a vee block clamp that pulls up onto the bottom of the work table.
    The material is a bit soft and cast iron would have been nice but this was the best I could do at the mo.
    The way it is supposed to work is I find the centre of the axis of the radius at the tip of a tool to be ground with the microscope, the 2 mic's on the side are for setting up and keeping the tool holding jig parallel to the outer edge or centreline and also to push the jig or tool over the required distance.
    Another micrometer head will be mounted on the rear of the platen and this will be used to advance the tool to set the required radius, the
    micrometer heads would be removed after set up.
    Yup....I know...clear as mud
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #23
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    Default

    Hi John, Guys,

    I'm not entirely clear on what you are trying to do here.
    So I'll apologise in advance if I'm barking up the wrong tree.

    Any radius will have to be set by the distance from the centre point of the table to the wheel and will get more shallow as you move away from it. Also the workpiece will have to be raised above the table surface to allow the wheel to clear.

    Grinding small radius is one of the considerations that I have with the design of my TCG ! Its a bit like ball turning on the lathe, the smaller the ball the closer to the centre you have to be.

    I hope that I'm not teaching granny to suck eggs.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Any radius will have to be set by the distance from the centre point of the table to the wheel and will get more shallow as you move away from it.
    Hi John, yes you are correct, but I think that you first need to position the tool in relation to the table axis, the tool should have an edge that can can be centered with the scope, then this edge is advanced from the centre to the radius required + depth of grind.
    When you touch off the cutter to the wheel you set your micrometer stop on the grinder, then advance the tool/cutter into the grinding wheel the previously measured depth of grind, this should leave the radius required.......at least that is how I see it.

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Also the workpiece will have to be raised above the table surface to allow the wheel to clear.
    Correct again, the table is just that, it is there to plonk do dars on that will hold cutting tools to grind or maybe mill them.
    So there are a few more bits needed and I will probably make them as required, first I think I will mount my punch former to the
    table for a play.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #25
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    Default

    Thanks John, I'm beginning to understand where you are going now ! I'm looking and learning.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #26
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    I'm glad you know what I'm doing because I am actualy only trying to fend off dementia

  12. #27
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    Default a gentle shove

    G/day fella's.

    I ditched the idea of using a micrometer head to advance the job on the table, it was going to be problematic as different sized objects, or at least shorter objects/jigs would need spacers between the micrometer head and the back of the object/jig.
    I think that if I am going to get very close to getting accurate sized radius then I will need to mount an indicator at the front of the setup and use something at the back to advance the setup from the centre of the axis of the work table.
    With those thoughts in mind I made this adjustable pusher thingo, it has a 20 deg taper in the nut and at the end of the squishy bit, it use's a 22 x 1mm thread to tighten onto the 12mm stainless rod.
    At the other end it has a 22 x .5mm thread that is used to delicately advance the job into position.

    Now I have to make a clamp to hold that punch former, something that won't move it when tightened....
    Attached Images Attached Images

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