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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Those old motors typically had a lot of cotton insulation in them ! Unfortunately they also retain a large amount of the dust and other stuff that absorbs moisture. Whilst you have obviously cleared a great deal of the debris that was in there, what is left will take a fair bit of drying out.

    At this point you really have only two choices, re-wash and try to clear anything else that might still be retained then bake dry and re-test. Or bake and hope that it drys enough that the readings improve.

    One thing that might help dry it out is to feed the windings with enough high current DC to heat them up and then re-test to see if the insulation resistance has improved. 800K is not enough to create enough leakage to trip a earth leakage breaker at 440 V. But do make sure that you have a good earth on the frame.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    I've put the original motor aside for now, and made up an adapter plate to fit another modern motor I had here.
    Its 1.5kW so way overpowered, but its a much smaller in every dimension so will have less inertia than the original if I do happen to crash.
    I'll ultimately be running it with a VFD I think so could possibly look at tweaking the settings to limit the maximum power.




    Gave it a quick spin up to check the direction of rotation and (as always) it was backwards. Sorted that and it runs nice and smoothly.
    The spindle isn't silent, but its not making any nasty noises and I'd say is quieter than many of the TCG's I've seen on Youtube.

    Just need to fabricate a wheel guard then it will be ready to actually grind something.
    There's still a number of things to tidy up before its completely finished such as making some new handles for the handwheels, working out what I'm doing with the electrical panel and sorting out some form of dust collector funnel to attach the shop vac to. Also making up a few more wheel hubs.
    Then I'll start down the rabbit hole of workheads etc.I've only got a very basic one now.




    Steve

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default Tool and cutter grinder rebuild.

    Hello from BC.
    That is an excellent job on the grinder rebuild. The flat belt drive allows a bit of slip and is a saver when you crash the wheel. Send me a message if you need pics of work head arrangements or indexing fingers. My Tos has a good micrometer stop and the cinci spring stops are good to work with. I would build a sub spindle or shaft extension to get the wheel over the table.
    Regards
    BC

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Hi BC,
    Thanks for the feedback.
    Not quite sure what you mean about the extension.
    Here’s a couple of photos of where a 4” flared wheel reaches with the existing spindle.





    Steve

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default T & C grinding

    Hello from BC.
    Your wheel position over the table is better than most but with some setups especially with the top table swivelled it may be hard to get the wheel to the job. With larger grinders a sub spindle can be bolted to the wheelhead like an internal grinder. On my Clarkson there is a screw on shaft extension, one end male the other female. It gives 60mm further reach. At times the available work envelope is just not enough with the Clarkson even though the main table swivels 90 deg and the top table swivels on top of that. Rong Fu got around that by having the table on a base that slides on ways at 90 deg to table movement. It gives about 180mm extra transverse travel and opens the envelope up quiet a lot.
    Regards
    BC

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    Gotcha. Thanks.
    Since I have to cut tapered bores anyway for the hubs I’ll make an extension shaft at the same time.

    Here are the current spring loaded adjustable stops. Just finished putting them back together.






    Steve

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    This is the work head I’ve got. I’ll have to strip the old paint and filler off and repaint it. Big heavy bugger - it’s not going to be on and off the grinder often.




    Trying to work out the taper.
    Only taper I can find in my engineers black book thats close might be a Jacobs #5.
    This Morse 5 only goes in about 40mm but is a nice fit.




    Steve

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

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    But wait....that’s only a sleeve. The real taper is even bigger!









    Steve

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Nice job you are doing there, a little tool envy I must admit.

    Is there any id on the sleeve ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Thanks John

    No, I can’t find any markings on the sleeve itself.
    I did a bit more research into tapers but still nothing that’s a likely match. I’ll just have to match it when I make any arbors.

    The weather has turned to turds here, a balmy 5.5C at the moment , raining and blowing about 30km/h so doesn’t look like I’ll be getting any painting done unless I venture out in it to get more firewood to warm the workshop up.

    Steve

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default T & C grinder

    SAM_0685.jpgSAM_0684.jpgSAM_0686.jpgSAM_0687.jpgHello again.
    A few pics of my Tos grinder. 1st is a sliding spring stop, 2nd the micrometer stop. Pic 3 is of 2 turret lathe MT sockets. 1.5 inch OD, hard and ground to size. They make great tool holders when used with a collet chuck. Last pic is of a fabricated work head that came with the Clarkson. Not too hard to do. If you make a work head incorporate a swivel with a horizontal shaft. You can easily set clearance angles with it that way.
    Regards
    BC

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    Thanks for the photos BC.

    Do you just have the one micrometer stop on the LH side, or is there another one for RH stop?

    I've got this body and spindle part of a Clarkson workhead here that I picked up a while back, so will probably fabricate a mount for that incorporating a horizontal shaft.
    Its tiny compared to the original workhead - just about fits inside the bore!!




    Steve

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    Hello Steve.
    The Tos only has provision for 1 micrometer stop, you could unscrew it and turn it about.
    Your workhead is sure a monster. Looking at the swivel graduations on it's base you might get enough tilt for primary clearance but not secondary I think. Wonder what it's intended use was? Keep an eye out on Ebay USA. They have a lot of grinder accessories listed most of the time. I prefer the smaller units. After working one of them for a few hours you appreciate how much work would be needed to operate a large head. Do the maths on reciprocating a table that weighs 200kg plus rotating a spindle that weighs 6kg 200 times in an hour. When I installed my Kearns borer I lifted a machine pry bar that weighs 30kg every 2 minutes plus pushing and grunting for 2 hrs. I drove home with tail between my legs for sure. I have ground most cutters with a small 3MT work head which is light to use. You just have to be careful the grinding force doesn't pull the cutter into the wheel if you lose your grip. Only a problem with annular cutters at 60mm or so.
    .SAM_0688.jpgSAM_0689.jpgSAM_0690.jpg
    The first pic shows just the base of a Cinci work head in front of my Rong Fu daily used item. It's nearly 3 times as heavy. Then a pic from the other side. Lastly the indexer I use. It came from a USA made air bearing spindle unit we used for the first few years. The big bug bear was the length from pivot point to the cutters end. It was far too long and we had to use it on a sub plate. Also as you swing the body about to grind the other facet angle the amount the table had to be wound back and forth was a waste of labour. A good unit for endmills but not annular cutters.
    regards
    BC

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    Thanks again BC.
    Looking in the Cinci #2 manual, I reckon mine looks very much like this face mill workhead (with an 18" facemill mounted). Definitely a similar very solid double swivel arrangement, and mine would also be large enough to swing that diameter cutter:




    Roughed out some wheel hubs the other night.
    My plan at the moment is to cut the internal thread for the puller, then bore the taper.
    I'll then machine a tapered arbor to suit, mount the hub on it and finish the other features. Hopefully that gets them pretty true.




    Steve

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

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    Getting close to finally being able to use it.
    Making up a wheel guard. Machines a mounting block to bolt to the head, and found this cracked round bar in the scrap.
    Guard itself is an old bit of fire pipe from the scrap bin at work.




    Just need a fitting to connect the rod to the guard.

    Made a start on some replacement handles for the hand wheels.
    Remembered I had this old machine roller that is some sort of engineering plastic. Delrin maybe?



    Cut a couple of bits off it to have a play with.


    This is what I’m trying to make



    I’ve got this far, but it’s pretty average



    Not sure what the best way is to get a nice smooth contour, but I’m tempted to make up a wood lathe style tool rest and have a crack at it like that with a hand held tool on a long handle.

    Steve

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