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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    2,651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steamloco1954 View Post
    Back again. In a previous post I showed some of my indexers. I have simple and adjustable factory units and home built as well. If you can't find them in a search of my posts message me and I'll repost. A spin indexer can be used and is good at gashing the cutter end.
    regards
    BC
    Thanks BC. I've searched and found a couple of them that give me some ideas to start with.

    I should also get onto ordering a couple of wheels to get me started, considering post is so slow these days.
    The wheel hub fits 32mm/1.25" wheels.
    I've got a few plain white and pink wheels in the 6-12mm width that I picked up a couple of years back, so should be OK there, but no real idea on cup and dish wheels.
    For a start I'm planning to just concentrate on doing some HSS end mills, but will also need a diamond wheel to use for carbide ones.
    White wheels in the 60-80grit range seem to be the general recommendation, and around the 180-220grit in diamond

    Any recommendations on some general purpose wheels to start out with?

    Steve

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default T & C wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Thanks BC. I've searched and found a couple of them that give me some ideas to start with.

    I should also get onto ordering a couple of wheels to get me started, considering post is so slow these days.
    The wheel hub fits 32mm/1.25" wheels.
    I've got a few plain white and pink wheels in the 6-12mm width that I picked up a couple of years back, so should be OK there, but no real idea on cup and dish wheels.
    For a start I'm planning to just concentrate on doing some HSS end mills, but will also need a diamond wheel to use for carbide ones.
    White wheels in the 60-80grit range seem to be the general recommendation, and around the 180-220grit in diamond

    Any recommendations on some general purpose wheels to start out with?

    Steve
    Hello again.
    11V9 flared cup wheels are good for the end of end mills and annular cutters. An angle grinder 125 X 1.6mm cut off wheel for gashing, good quality of course. Also a 100 X 50mm straight cup wheel for using the flat face. EG when grinding countersinks, taps and 4 facet drills. 38A60 KV or similar. I have tried RA or ruby wheels which are tougher and give a better finish but cut slow on good quality HSS.
    A DS1 dressing stick is handy for the bench grinder wheels or tool room wheels if they just need deglazing or are loaded. Don't buy cheap brand wheels as they are rubbish. I stick to Norton or Abrasiflex. I have only recently started to grind carbide and found a 180 grit wheel a bit coarse.
    Regards
    BC

  3. #33
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    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    Awesome - thanks BC.

    There are both 100 and 125mm sizes in the flared cup wheels. Any preference?

    Steve

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default T & C wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Awesome - thanks BC.

    There are both 100 and 125mm sizes in the flared cup wheels. Any preference?

    Steve
    Hello again.
    100/75mm runs at the rite speed and the smaller wheel gets in where the big wheel won't fit. Also when grinding cutters like annular, the position of the wheel relative to cutter centre can change the distance to the following tooth. This is a bit dodgy on cutters with small spacing between flutes. Especially on annular cutters adjusting cutter tooth centre height with the index finger alters clearance to the next tooth. However it changes clearance angle and facet centre line. All a big compromise. Took me hours to get it down pat. Each cup wheel gets me about 2000 cutters so the cost is low. Dressing wears the wheel more.
    Regards
    BC

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    Cheers BC - I've just ordered both wheels online from Blackwoods.
    Probably not the cheapest place to buy them, but convenient for now.

    Steve

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    Just got a reply from Bellowflex about the column bellows.
    The can do a stitched type bellows for $275 + GST

    Looks like I'm going to have to keep my eye out for some poly-tarp and get the old sewing machine out myself.....

    Steve

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    2,651

    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    Managed to remove the motor from the bottom of the column and get it out of the base casting.
    Weighs about 30kg I reckon - and I've decided its not going back in.




    I'm thinking I'll combine Steamloco and BaronJ's suggestions and drive it with a DC treadmill motor mounted on the top of the spindle housing. I've got a 180v 1.5HP one here, and most of the parts to control it. Just need to pick up a bigger bridge rectifier as I don't have anything here that will handle the 7.5A




    I thought about using a small 3ph motor and VFD, and even plonked the smallest spare motor (1.5kw) I've got on top to see what it would look like. Decided it would be complete overkill....




    Opened up the electric panel, and felt like I'd stepped back a century.





    Measured up the wheel hub as I'll need to make some more, and turns out its 3" taper per foot , with 1" diameter on the large end.
    Looking online that seems to be a common size for a lot of surface and tool grinders.

    Steve

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Steve,

    Don't forget to allow for the inrush current for the bridge rectifier. 25 amp 600 volt ones are as cheap as chips !

    PS: I agree about the big blue motor in your picture, it looks enormous compared to the spindle.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    jilliby nsw
    Age
    71
    Posts
    111

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    I thought about using a small 3ph motor and VFD, and even plonked the smallest spare motor (1.5kw) I've got on top to see what it would look like. Decided it would be complete overkill....

    Steve my wheel motor is only a 1/2 hp single phase and it is adequate to carry out any grinding operation I've done to date. Re motor placement, I have a plate that bolts to the wheelhead with a ribbed belt drive. I'll get a pic tomorrow




  10. #40
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Steve,

    Don't forget to allow for the inrush current for the bridge rectifier. 25 amp 600 volt ones are as cheap as chips !

    PS: I agree about the big blue motor in your picture, it looks enormous compared to the spindle.
    Thanks John, I've ordered a couple of the 25A ones (AU stock) which should be here early next week, and also a handful of the cheap 50A square metal case flavour with the spade lug terminals from China in case I need them later.
    I was sure I had a couple here, but the largest one I could find was 8A. Likely I'll trip over one today now that I've ordered more.....

    Steve

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    6,439

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    Hi Steve,

    Yes that seems always to be the case ! You are sure you have one somewhere, but can't find it until you order another one. That safe place must be bloody enormous


    Just a suggestion. You’ve probably seen me mention "Shower pump motors" ! I've had half a dozen or more now, all obtained free from the local scrap yard. All 240 volt 50 Hz AC. In every case the motor has been perfectly fine. The problem has always been that the pump at one end or the other or both has sized up, usually the hot end.

    These motors all seem to be in the 300 to 600 watt range, mostly induction types but a few are variable speed universal brush motors. Easily identified by having a speed control knob on them. Though I very recently got an induction motor one that has a VFD built into it, which surprised me a little.

    They all seem to have 8 to 10 mm diameter shafts, so a useful size range. All the induction motor ones run at 2800/3000 rpm, whilst the universal types run around 3,5K to 4K rpm.

    The good ones have bronze pumps and impellers. Which I return to the scrap yard. This is really a bit of give and take, because the bronze is worth more to the scrap man than the rest of the motors, but they are not worth his time stripping them down.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Riddells Creek, Vic.
    Posts
    831

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    Steve, you may be disappointed with the performance of the DC motor on a machine like this, I think the best option would be to convert the original motor to Delta and use a VFD. I set up my old surface grinder, which has a motor like yours, and it has been working perfectly for years.

  13. #43
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Thanks Techo1.
    I'm actually keen to give the DC motor a try. HP wise it should be overkill, and I've seen lots of videos online of guys using them as motors for linishers etc which I'd think would be a tougher gig than this grinder.
    Also, with this motor being a 2-speed one, I'm not sure how its constructed - ie whether its just 2 completely separate windings or one of the Dahlander pole-changing style ones that I've just had my first encounter with on a mate's cold saw.
    If its the latter then it probably can't be run on 240v anyway.

    Should be minimal work to mount the treadmill motor on the top of the spindle head and drive it off the other end of the spindle and try it. I'll leave the existing drive belt in place in the column and make sure its clear of the spindle - that way if I change my mind down the track its easy to revert. I've got 415v 3ph-3ph VFDs here and a phase converter so plenty of options...

    Steve

  14. #44
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    BaronJ - those shower pumps sound like a useful source of motors, but they must be a UK thing as I've never seen any down under.
    Our showers generally just run straight from mains water pressure.

    Steve

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Steve,

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    BaronJ - those shower pumps sound like a useful source of motors, but they must be a UK thing as I've never seen any down under.
    Our showers generally just run straight from mains water pressure.

    Steve
    They are ! The local scrap guy seems to get loads of them, mainly from jobbing plumbers. I was in there this morning and he currently has an 8 ton skip full of them. I can basically go and help myself to what ever I want, as long as he gets the bronze scrap back.

    Generally the showers do run direct from mains water pressure, but there are people that like to have showers that sting like a swarm of wasps ! Of course there are also low water pressure areas where the pressure is quite low, such as living at the top of a hill.

    Some of these pumps will produce 8ft head and 5 bar pressures.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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