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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    jilliby nsw
    Age
    71
    Posts
    111

    Default

    This is my T & C grinder
    IMG_0496.jpg
    Some of the attachments I made for the workhead
    IMG_0493.jpgEr 32 collect holder
    IMG_0492.jpgTool post for doing lathe tools. Also a 3 jar chuck attachment
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Ian,

    Now how did you fasten it up there
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    jilliby nsw
    Age
    71
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Haha, yes upside down pics. For some strange reason when I added the images from the photo library the algorithm chose to place 2 of them upside down and despite numerous attempts at adding pics to the post there was no way the computer was going to cooperate! Anyhow I reckon that an upside down pics is better than no pic

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Ian,

    Quote Originally Posted by hpa1 View Post
    Haha, yes upside down pics. For some strange reason when I added the images from the photo library the algorithm chose to place 2 of them upside down and despite numerous attempts at adding pics to the post there was no way the computer was going to cooperate! Anyhow I reckon that an upside down pics is better than no pic
    The secret is to edit the picture and re-save it ! Just re-saving doesn't remove the "EXIF" data embedded in the picture. Its the EXIF data that tells the computer which way up it should be plus a lot of other data you might not want to share.

    I usually just crop the outside edges off and save. If needed it also allows me to resize a picture.

    HTH.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Thanks, and upside down is definitely better than no photo. Forced me to copy them to my PC so I could have a decent look anyway

    This Power grinder has a 900mm square base.
    Yours looks to be a bit smaller than that but always hard to tell from photos (learned that lesson when I bought a horizontal bandsaw a couple of years ago that I thought was only a pallet wide from the photos. Turned out to be sitting on a DOUBLE width pallet and was 1.4T )

    Those attachments look great. Nice job!

    I spent an hour last night just faffing with it, spraying the surface rusted areas with acetone/ATF mix and and starting to clean them up.
    Only obvious damage so far is some damaged handwheel handles, and one of the handwheels has taken a whack at some point and cracked a chunk out next to the handle spindle.

    Haven't worked out yet what the deal is with lubrication of the ways. I can see inside the base there is a copper tube that looks to be running from the front to rear of the saddle ways, but as yet haven't found any obvious points to actually put oil in.
    The spindle and column have grease nipples.

    Steve

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default T & C pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by Toggy View Post
    On the 2nd pic of the cincy with the drive pulley. Appears to be the flat belt drive pulley for the internal grinding spindle.

    What are the width and diameter dimensions please as I have to make one.

    Ken
    Hello Ken.
    I have just measured the pulley at 5" diameter and 1" wide. The coning is about 5 thou. My model has a split casting to hold the spindle cartridge and 2 jacking bolts to open it up. Looks like they wanted to make it easy to change the belt.
    Regards
    BC

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default No2

    I've got a Cinci No2 without any accessories . It's a ex Tafe or Tech school machine by the look of it , been painted with horrible blue and yellow enamel . Am thinking of passing it onto somebody with more expertise than I have

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    I've got a Cinci No2 without any accessories . It's a ex Tafe or Tech school machine by the look of it , been painted with horrible blue and yellow enamel . Am thinking of passing it onto somebody with more expertise than I have
    That would count me out then
    I’m a complete newbie brewing lots of dumb questions while i bring this one back to life....

    I wouldn’t think you’d have too much issue moving it on if you decide to.

    Steve

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Thanks BC. That gives me a walkup start for making a replacement drive pulley. Then to make a mount for the internal grinding spindle cartridge.

    Tomorrow I will measure mine up and get back with the measurements. I haven't removed my bellows yet as their damage is just below the top clamping flat. The Elliott has a motorised head with a high speed output (belt driven step up) and a straight low speed drive.


    Ken

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    Found the grease nipples for the saddle lubrication.




    Still no sign of any way of lubing the table ball ways, but I've just checked in the Cinci #2 manual and it says:
    " The table rides on precision ball bearings. These and the ways should be cleaned and dried periodically, but should never be oiled or greased as oily lubricants eventually pick up grinding grit.
    After cleaning, dust the balls lightly with colloidal graphite "

    Is that the same graphite powder you use to lubricate door locks?

    Steve

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    jilliby nsw
    Age
    71
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    That would count me out then
    I’m a complete newbie brewing lots of dumb questions while i bring this one back to life....
    Steve
    Steve the machine may look complicated and scary but its not. Basically its a mounted bench grinder and a workhead which give you the ability to move the tool your sharpening in any of X,Y&Z axis as well as rotary motion. So to use the machine work out what you want to sharpen and then work out what standard machine accessories you can use for the job and what you need to beg, borrow or make to complete the task.
    For example for me to sharpen the end of an endmill, I needed something to hold the tool, so I made the ER32 collet adaptor to fit onto my workhead so I had 2 planes of movement to get the angles needed. the 3rd plane of movement is provided by the grinding head settings. The workhead spindle can be indexed by degrees or direct indexed to cater for the number of facets that need to be sharpened ie. 2, 3. 4, etc. Once you can get your head around the sharpening process (tool angles & setup) the rest will fall into place. There are a number of T&C sharpening books around that will tell you the recommended sharpening angles needs for a variety of tooling. There are also a variety of attachments commercially made to hold tooling such as drill sharpening jigs etc.Hope this hasn't confused you too much it is a little difficult to cover "how to" thoughts and processes into a few lines of print

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Thanks hpa1.
    I've grabbed all the online T&C books I could find over the last few months. I think I've now got a basic idea of what needs to be done, but I'm sure the devil is in the detail. I'm sure the devil is in the detail though, and only experience will help with that.

    Fortunately I've gotten quite good at making blunt/damaged cutters, and have been building up a stockpile to practice on

    Apart from cleaning it up and actually getting it running, I'm going to need some form of indexing as the current workhead doesn't seem to have any. Its basically just a rotating morse taper socket with a clamping screw to lock it (unless there's something I've missed).

    Steve

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Usually there is some kind of a finger that runs in the flutes of a cutter to provide the indexing.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default T & C indexing

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Thanks hpa1.
    I've grabbed all the online T&C books I could find over the last few months. I think I've now got a basic idea of what needs to be done, but I'm sure the devil is in the detail. I'm sure the devil is in the detail though, and only experience will help with that.

    Fortunately I've gotten quite good at making blunt/damaged cutters, and have been building up a stockpile to practice on

    Apart from cleaning it up and actually getting it running, I'm going to need some form of indexing as the current workhead doesn't seem to have any. Its basically just a rotating morse taper socket with a clamping screw to lock it (unless there's something I've missed).

    Steve
    Back again. In a previous post I showed some of my indexers. I have simple and adjustable factory units and home built as well. If you can't find them in a search of my posts message me and I'll repost. A spin indexer can be used and is good at gashing the cutter end.
    regards
    BC

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Steve,

    I took some measurements today. The Elliott column is 630mm diameter which my calculations give me 190mm or in its imperial measurements 7+7/8 inches. Appears about correct from eyeballing a vernier.

    It has 275mm elevation (10+7/8" --11" when of the lift screw.

    The rubber bellows are 1.19mm or 0.0430"

    The top of the bellows clamp to a vertical surface via a jubilee style clamp. The bottom clamps to the horizontal surface of the base via two screwed down steel clamps.

    As an aside the head is stamped 220 380 440 3ph 50G. I am guessing the 50G denote 50 hertz. I have not opened up the motorised head to check the electrics but will have to do so soon due to dry bearings which I assume will be some type of preloaded bearings. Even though I power it via the rotary phase converter the 220 suggests a VFD could be used.

    I have hijacked your thread a bit but the info may be of use to somebody looking for information.

    Ken

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