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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Steve,

    From the rag on the edges I would say that is Carbon loaded PVC ! The smell should give it away. Use a gentle flame to polish it whilst its spinning in the lathe, you will not get it smooth any other way ! Sanding it will just leave rings.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    Thanks John - I think you’re onto it.
    Thought I got a whiff of something familiar when I was cutting the wheel in half with the circular saw and it got a bit warm.
    I just didn’t twig as to what it was....
    Would have been chlorine

    Steve

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    Default

    Cleaning up the workshop tonight I thought I’d confirm if the plastic was PVC.

    Acetone doesn’t have any effect on the swarf, nor does PVC plumbing cement (MEK) so I don’t think it’s PVC.

    Here’s a close up of some swarf, and another photo after the same lump has been heated with torch.

    Any ideas what material it is?






    Steve

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    2,129

    Default

    I know very little about plastic but that sorta looks like it has graphite in it, if it has you could measure conductivity
    with a multimeter to know one way or the other.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    If the smell didn't give it away and MEK doesn't touch it then it could be a carbon loaded nylon ! Certainly the melted stuff looks as if it could be. Unfortunately the turnings could be either. I doubt that measuring its conductivity will tell you anything.

    When you heated it, did it try to reduce to a liquid and if so did it cool hard and shiny ! If so then it might be a nylon product.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    Default

    The grinder has been sitting off to the side while I got distracted with some other projects.

    Spent a few hours yesterday progressing the wheel hubs I started a while ago. I’d roughed them out and done the internal tapers, so mounted them on a tapered arbor and finished the clamping face and thread.
    Made up a sort of collet from a piece of scrap aluminum to hold the hub for threading the internal thread for the removal puller, and also to hold the collar while I faced the second face after parting.
    Bottom left of the hub photo is the start of a pin spanner for the spindle nut.
    Will need to make a larger one for the hubs (and still have to drill the holes in the hubs)






    Steve

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post

    Spent a few hours yesterday progressing the wheel hubs I started a while ago.

    Steve
    Steve these are a bit like lathe tool holders in the sense that you never seem to have enough of them, recently i have bought some diamond wheels and the bores in them vary in size (above and below 32mm) so i might have to make new hubs to suit the bore sizes, i will see how they run first..........

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    Default

    Too true.
    I already have more wheels than hubs and I haven’t ground anything yet!

    Ive also been thinking it would be a good skill building exercise on the grinder to make a tapered reamer for the bores, and it would speed up the process of making more hubs.

    Steve

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Power tool and cutter grinder

    Been slowly working on getting the grinder functional in between other projects etc.

    Got the hubs finished, made a couple of pin spanners and mounted some wheels.




    I had a long hard look at the original workhead and decided to just put it aside for now as its huge and I didn't already have any arbors with suitable tapers to get it going - which made it a bigger job that I was up for right now.
    I'd previously bought part of a Clarkson head from another member here, and a cheap ER20 straight shank chuck off eBay.
    Bored the Clarkson sleeve out to take the ER20 chuck and mated them together.




    Made up a rough tooth rest arrangement so I could have a go at sharpening an endmill. I made the post double ended for a start, but later cut it into 2 pieces of different lengths. The flexible spring steel piece that indexes on the cutter came from an old bow-saw blade.






    Here's a couple of the complete setup





    And the end result. Definitely need some practice but wasn't a complete failure. I'm confident it will cut better than before I attacked it on the grinder




    Steve

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default Tool grinding

    Hello from BC.
    You will find grinding the end of cutters easier with a flared cup wheel. They are easy to dress to a sharp edge. Good job with the grinder. I have started a Youtube series on T & C work titled In my shed with BC. A table stop gives you more confidence.
    regards
    BC

  11. #101
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Thanks BC. By coincidence I stumbled on your YouTube channel earlier today and recognized the grinder and extended work table. Have watched about half of the video already.

    With using a flared cup wheel do you basically end up using just the outer corner of the wheel or do you dress to a small land?
    The brand new wheel I have is dressed like this:




    Today I thought I’d have a crack at doing a 4 facet grind on the center part of a center drill as Most of the ones I have are blunt.
    Definitely well beyond my current skill set, and there’s a bit of play in the sleeve of the clarkson workhead which didn’t help.
    I had the fluted half of a broken 12mm drill so had a go at that. Being physically larger it was easier to see what was going on and it was much more successful.
    I couldn’t get the width on the primary relief the same for both flutes - possibly something to do with indexing on the opposing flute combined with the workhead play.

    I’m going to buy an ER32 or ER40 chuck and make a suitable sleeve for that as the ER20 doesn’t have enough capacity. It will also solve the head play issue.

    Steve

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    I think that its much easier to use the collet to index a drill or milling cutter. Set the flute up by eye, then even if its a fraction out when you rotate the collar the other flute is exactly 180 degrees away. If you look carefully at the third picture you can see the slot that the pin runs in. But you do have to get the ends of the slot exactly across the centre line.

    07-04-2016-007.jpg 22-02-2016-004.jpg 22-02-2016-005.jpg

    These pictures are from my four facet drill sharpener.

    Hope this gives you some ideas.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default 4 facet drills

    Hello Steve and Baron.
    In a previous post I showed a pic of using an ER 32 collet chuck with a 25mm plain shank in a Clarkson head. You can make a simple indexing collar for the back end or index off the collet nut. Be careful you don't undo the nut. I usually dress the whole face of the cup wheel as with annular cutters the outer edge grinds into towards the gullet and the inner part of the face grinds the outer facet. I get up to 10-12 cutters between dressing. The smaller cutters are more sensitive to wheel dressing so I start there and go up in size. There was another Youtube video posted Sat but I helped the auto focus and it's not great. Soon I will get to grinding individual tool types.
    Baron that is a great job on the 4 facet head.
    Regards
    BC

  14. #104
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default Back again with pics.

    SAM_0738.jpgSAM_0739.jpgHello again.
    The first pic shows the indexing collar I made and the second has indexing off the collet nut. 6 divisions. The head has a sleeve to reduce the bore from 32mm to 25mm. The ER32 chuck in on a 25mm shaft and perfect fit in the bore. it is surprising how little slop there is in the assy. If I adapt it with an ER11 chuck the runout is OK at about 2 tenths.
    regards
    BC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6EgMPEYxmw This shows most of the bits for the Clarkson including the spiral flute attachment.

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default sharpeing direction

    G/day Steve, I am not sure if I am seeing your grind correctly but thought i would mention that grind direction is important to get
    a nice sharp burr free edge, see pic for clarification.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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