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  1. #1
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    Default I begin to Knife Making

    Hi everyone, I am new here and today I want to share a metalwork of my own.

    4 weeks ago I started the project of making my own knife. And that's what I did, I did dew things wrong but I learned a lot from it. It was a really huge project for me, and I plan on making another one soon. I loved doing this, it was fun.

    My knife is designed for bushcraft woodcutting. It's 6mm wide and the handle is made of plum tree wood. I'd love hearing your thoughts about it, tell me what you think ?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjmXtJuFTgY&t=1s

    Thanks

    Nolan

  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi Nolan F

    Welcome to our MetalWork Forums.

    You are in good company.There are a few knifemakers here.

    To explore the other areas of our forum here's a guide on how to to navigate our Forum and find all the other forums and help pages.

    Goto the FORUM box in the top left hand corner of the page and click the down arrow. This will bring up a pull down menu that has Forum Home at the top

    Click Forum Home which will present a scroll down page entitled Forums and members help.

    Our rules, the Terms of Service are right at the top ,we encourage you read them.

    Below that are all the various help pages and subforums that make up our MetalWork forum.

    We look forward to your questions and contributions of knowledge to our Forum.

    Grahame

  3. #3
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    Default

    Hi Nolan,
    I've made a few knives over the years,(as do some of the guys here).
    The first 'set' I made took me over a year.
    I am impressed on the work and effort you put into your first knife and so "Congratulations".
    I'ts a hobby that 'sucks you in' over time and I'm guessing this wont be the last knife you make.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Welcome to the forum Nolan.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Brian is correct,

    Its is a bit like being drawn to the dark side. Oh! I will only make a few knives. Famous last words.

    Into the shed and work with your hands mainly. Sometimes a knife costs me more to make than buying one off the rack.

    It also seems that knife makers are usually interested or involved in a cluster of other related activities.

    Archery and Black Powder Muzzle Loading are a couple where they have Knife and tomahawk throwing events.

    That leads to leather work for making knife and hawk sheathes . Also same guys sometimes in Bushcraft , Outdoors,Camping, Hunting Shooting and Fishing too.

    Then its Blacksmithing- it never stops- no time to get bored - just get poorer, doing so many things.

    Grahame

  6. #6
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    Default

    Nolan,
    I watched your video and must say it is a really good effort for a first knife. It should work well for you.

    I like the plum handle timber- very attractive.

    It is a good stout knife and thick enough at the spine to take a hammering when splitting branches.

    Things I noticed.

    The glue, to me it looked like work workers glue. Some timber glues are water based and while the glue works wonderfully for timber it can have poor adhesion with timber to steel.

    Also water based glue can let go after exposure to water.That might be something to keep an eye on.

    Perhaps next time use some epoxy based glue may be better to use.

    Thong holes and thongs are used on some bushcraft knives. If required the hole could be added later.

    A piece of brass from the hobby shop might suit. The ends can be flared out to avoid fretting the thong and contrast nicely with the dark wood.

    I don't know if it was the camera angle but the blue vehicle might have grinding grit embedded in the paint and glass by now.

    The sparks are near red hot when they hit and melt into the paint and glass surfaces and are nearly impossible to remove. I found that out the hard way.

    Do you know what sort of steel that was used or alternately where it came from? Ie: heavy duty ride on mower blade or a car spring? In this country they mower blades can be picked up for nothing where they service the ride on mowers.

    Congratulations on your first knife. Good job!

    Grahame
    Last edited by Grahame Collins; 28th May 2020 at 06:39 PM. Reason: Punctuation

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Briangoldcoast View Post
    Hi Nolan,
    I've made a few knives over the years,(as do some of the guys here).
    The first 'set' I made took me over a year.
    I am impressed on the work and effort you put into your first knife and so "Congratulations".
    I'ts a hobby that 'sucks you in' over time and I'm guessing this wont be the last knife you make.
    Hi ! Thank you very much !
    I can confirm, what you say is true. Now I want to make a lot a things but I am not shure that I'll have the time ^^. I will make a new one for sure !

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Nolan,
    I watched your video and must say it is a really good effort for a first knife. It should work well for you.

    I like the plum handle timber- very attractive.

    It is a good stout knife and thick enough at the spine to take a hammering when splitting branches.

    Things I noticed.

    The glue, to me it looked like work workers glue. Some timber glues are water based and while the glue works wonderfully for timber it can have poor adhesion with timber to steel.

    Also water based glue can let go after exposure to water.That might be something to keep an eye on.

    Perhaps next time use some epoxy based glue may be better to use.

    Thong holes and thongs are used on some bushcraft knives. If required the hole could be added later.

    A piece of brass from the hobby shop might suit. The ends can be flared out to avoid fretting the thong and contrast nicely with the dark wood.

    I don't know if it was the camera angle but the blue vehicle might have grinding grit embedded in the paint and glass by now.

    The sparks are near red hot when they hit and melt into the paint and glass surfaces and are nearly impossible to remove. I found that out the hard way.

    Do you know what sort of steel that was used or alternately where it came from? Ie: heavy duty ride on mower blade or a car spring? In this country they mower blades can be picked up for nothing where they service the ride on mowers.

    Congratulations on your first knife. Good job!

    Grahame
    Before all Thank youvery much for all you advices?

    I heard of epoxy glue is it adhering on steel and wood ? I used basic wood glue not for the wood to adhere to the steel but to make a strong contact between the wood pieces of the handle. So they are all in one to make it hugs the shape of the blade.

    I'll keep an eye on the water.

    I didn't noticed I made sparks on the blue car. Thanks I'll will take a look at it to see if it's not too damaged

    I used a old piece of steel from an old gate frame. It is all recovery material even the plun tree wood is a tree we cutted in our garden.

    Another thank you, have a nice day.

    Nolan

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NolanF View Post
    Hi everyone, I am new here and today I want to share a metalwork of my own.

    4 weeks ago I started the project of making my own knife. And that's what I did, I did dew things wrong but I learned a lot from it. It was a really huge project for me, and I plan on making another one soon. I loved doing this, it was fun.

    My knife is designed for bushcraft woodcutting. It's 6mm wide and the handle is made of plum tree wood. I'd love hearing your thoughts about it, tell me what you think ?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjmXtJuFTgY&t=1s

    Thanks

    Nolan
    Like a few others pointed out it is quite addicting when you start making them! But soon it will turn into hmm lets try and make this tool and that tool and before you know if you will have a workshop full of custom made tools

  10. #10
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    Default

    Hi Nolan,
    A word or two about the steel used to make a knife. When you make your next knife this hopefully will be good information to have.

    We are talking of steel that came from the junk pile so to speak. Your gate hinge strap? Junked vehicles are good sources for cheap knife steel.

    The problem is to have knowledge of what the steel is and if you know the original application it is often possible to research the chemical /carbon %make up of the steel.

    Steel comes in different varieties. Common to knife makers jargon there are carbon steels and alloy steels. In the carbon steel groups ,steel ranges in carbon % from 0.03% carbon to 1.2% roughly. The higher end carbon % is what we budget knife makers using scrap steel are interested in.

    The primary function of a blade is to cut. To do this efficiently the steel edge must be hard enough to with stand friction and impact.

    To get this needed hardness the steel material must contain a certain level of carbon.The carbon content comes into play when the knife is heated and quenched.

    The blade metallurgy during the cooling transforms the steel at a molecular level from relatively soft to extremely hard.

    Usually quenched steel is too hard and must be tempered back a bit to get the suitable hardness.

    The carbon % content has a direct impact on what happens in gaining the desired hardness so the edge will be hard and springy enough to hold a decent edge and cut, but not so hard it will be brittle and crack or even break upon impact.

    I have some great diagrams on the sourcing of the scrap material for knife blades by both the forged and ground types. I'll dig them out ,it will take a while but i will post them


    By now you have probably tested your knife and what happens at the blade edge should tell you a lot if you take into account, the above.

    The internet is a wonderful resource and you can find loads of information. I am looking forward to seeing your next project that you begin.

    Hint, we love pictures.

    Happy knife making

    Grahame

  11. #11
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Hi Nolan,
    A word or two about the steel used to make a knife. When you make your next knife this hopefully will be good information to have.

    We are talking of steel that came from the junk pile so to speak. Your gate hinge strap? Junked vehicles are good sources for cheap knife steel.

    The problem is to have knowledge of what the steel is and if you know the original application it is often possible to research the chemical /carbon %make up of the steel.

    Steel comes in different varieties. Common to knife makers jargon there are carbon steels and alloy steels. In the carbon steel groups ,steel ranges in carbon % from 0.03% carbon to 1.2% roughly. The higher end carbon % is what we budget knife makers using scrap steel are interested in.

    The primary function of a blade is to cut. To do this efficiently the steel edge must be hard enough to with stand friction and impact.

    To get this needed hardness the steel material must contain a certain level of carbon.The carbon content comes into play when the knife is heated and quenched.

    The blade metallurgy during the cooling transforms the steel at a molecular level from relatively soft to extremely hard.

    Usually quenched steel is too hard and must be tempered back a bit to get the suitable hardness.

    The carbon % content has a direct impact on what happens in gaining the desired hardness so the edge will be hard and springy enough to hold a decent edge and cut, but not so hard it will be brittle and crack or even break upon impact.

    I have some great diagrams on the sourcing of the scrap material for knife blades by both the forged and ground types. I'll dig them out ,it will take a while but i will post them


    By now you have probably tested your knife and what happens at the blade edge should tell you a lot if you take into account, the above.

    The internet is a wonderful resource and you can find loads of information. I am looking forward to seeing your next project that you begin.

    Hint, we love pictures.

    Happy knife making

    Grahame
    Hi Grahame,

    I am not the OP but have to say thanks to such a detailed response. I have a question for you. Is it in any way possible to reduce or increase the CO2 percentage in the mild steel at home?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TIG_Is_My_Jam View Post
    Is it in any way possible to reduce or increase the CO2 percentage in the mild steel at home?
    CO2? A typo perhaps

    Do you mean carbon % ? If you do,and in relation to increasing knife blade hardness, the answer is, not effectively. Reducing carbon % in steel, no,idea.

    I believe blacksmiths could "carbon pack" wrapping the item in carbon rich material which surface hardened the item but its not practical or effective for knife making for diy knife makers,in my opinion. The steel should have the carbon at the required % dispersed through out the whole of the blade.

    It is, carbon in a suitable percentage that evenly distributed through out the steel, that contributes greatly a grain change and hardening.

    Commercial stock, mild steel - you might know as flat bar, angle section (angle iron)and rod are low carbon steel. Center punches and chisels are medium carbon steel.

    For instance you can't take a piece of center punch size Low Carbon steel rod and heat and quench it and then expect it to be hard.

    It won't happen,if you strike it as you would a proper punch and it will fold and flatten.

    Deep in the bowels of my computer,(somewhere?) there is an illustration I am looking for.It explains the quench change wonderfully. I shall post it it as soon as I find the darn thing.
    Until then ,try Google and type in steel carbon percentage and heat and quench. Wikipedia might even have some info on it.

    Grahame

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    CO2? A typo perhaps

    Do you mean carbon % ? If you do,and in relation to increasing knife blade hardness, the answer is, not effectively. Reducing carbon % in steel, no,idea.

    I believe blacksmiths could "carbon pack" wrapping the item in carbon rich material which surface hardened the item but its not practical or effective for knife making for diy knife makers,in my opinion. The steel should have the carbon at the required % dispersed through out the whole of the blade.

    It is, carbon in a suitable percentage that evenly distributed through out the steel, that contributes greatly a grain change and hardening.

    Commercial stock, mild steel - you might know as flat bar, angle section (angle iron)and rod are low carbon steel. Center punches and chisels are medium carbon steel.

    For instance you can't take a piece of center punch size Low Carbon steel rod and heat and quench it and then expect it to be hard.

    It won't happen,if you strike it as you would a proper punch and it will fold and flatten.

    Deep in the bowels of my computer,(somewhere?) there is an illustration I am looking for.It explains the quench change wonderfully. I shall post it it as soon as I find the darn thing.
    Until then ,try Google and type in steel carbon percentage and heat and quench. Wikipedia might even have some info on it.

    Grahame
    I am a TIG welder actually so I do have knowledge of steel (self taught thou so no actual welder school attended). However my steel knowledge is somewhat basic and limited. I was wondering if that would be possible to manipulate the carbon percentage in the steel on your own at home.

    I think I understand what you mean. I will try to see it on google but if you ever find that graph maybe you can still post it here. If not for me then for other forum users

    Also thanks for your reply

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TIG_Is_My_Jam View Post
    I was wondering if that would be possible to manipulate the carbon percentage in the steel on your own at home.
    No that's not practical.

    Relate steel making as to how a cake would be made.

    Once the ingredients are mixed in there and baked, that is it. Impossible to remove them without destroying the cake.

    The chemicals and elements are added to the steel to obtain a specific result. The grade of steel- (plain carbon steel in our case ) the steel we, as knife makers, would be seeking is a high carbon steel.

    In our PLAIN CARBON Steel grades there is of course carbon in varying percentages and minimal trace elements of other types -silicon and phosprous at times but no other alloying metals.

    Low carbon steel ,medium carbon steel and high carbon steel have differing applications. As a welder you will find out the more carbon content a steel has ,the more difficult it is to weld. As a knifemaker when it has a high carbon content it good for DIY knifemaking.

    It is the higher carbon percentage grades that knife makers have to use. Without the carbon you have a steel knife shaped object that won't perform as well as a high carbon steel knife will.

    I am into traditional pocket knives and can tell you the old carbon steel (read high carbon blades) hold hair popping edges.Carbon steel blades went out of favour because if they were NOT cleaned and oiled, the blades corroded and stainless steel which is a steel alloy which has chromium and nickel in the metallurgical(and carbon) make up,took their place.

    I hope that helps.

    Grahame

  15. #15
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    @Graham Yeah, you explained it very well

    I am actually thinking of reading some good book on the topic of Steel once I have some free time. I would very much like to know more about it

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