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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Needed some way of connecting the electric hoist to the carriage.



    The hoist comes with two 3mm pressed steel hangers which wonít work for me, so I hacked up a bit of 150mm channel (scrapped forklift Tyne extension) to make something that would.




    Steve

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    52
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    Not sure how far apart your wheels are on your trolley, but be careful about the balancing when there's no weight as there back heavy.

    These hoists are great and well worth there money, I've taken this simple hoist to a whole new level on this crane build which I'll reveil when I put up my crane thread.

    I have found on my old crane it's to quick for picking up and dropping down to be any good for any precise work like chuck fitment, or onto the mill table etc, so I fixed that.
    Using Tapatalk

  3. #33
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Thanks Dave.
    Iíve made a newbie mistake there and hadnít thought much about the actual load point - stupidly assuming it would be midway between the factory mount brackets.

    Iíll have to look at it properly and come up with a better solution.

    Steve

  4. #34
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    Dec 2013
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    Here is my old trolley that worked great and balanced well.
    Also here is a link to my crane build, sadly the pictures have been lost in this forum, so I hope it's ok to share. It also shows the festoon, I've seen guys using chain links instead of wheels for it.
    Home made jib crane for the shop
    Using Tapatalk

  5. #35
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    Dec 2013
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    Looking at your trolley design, to make it suit this hoist your wheels need to be further apart, split it in the center and widen it adding steel between and welded to the sheet metal, no pivot.
    Unless you want add a couple of extra couple of wheels on the motor end to take the weight which I've seen but doesn't look great.
    Or
    If you split it you can just weld either half of your trolley to each end to the factory sheet metal of the hoist, Reinforced it both sides with a bit of sheet metal from the trolley frame to the factory sheet metal will also stop the wheels seperating from around the round bar as I said in a earlier post.
    I would pick the latter.
    Using Tapatalk

  6. #36
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    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Swing gantry for the workshop

    So I poked and prodded it, attacked it with MIG, grinder and a few bits from the scrap bin.

    Ended up with this:
    Pivot moved to line up with the cable drum, support on the motor end that holds the hoist horizontal and also provides anti-spreading for the carriage, and a similar anti-spread brace at the drum end with a couple of bearings on it to stop the carriage tilting and jamming under the weight of the motor.







    Steve

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    jilliby nsw
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    67
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    74

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    I'm impressed, very creative Steve, that should work, well done

  8. #38
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by hpa1 View Post
    I'm impressed, very creative Steve, that should work, well done
    Thanks
    Not sure if it qualifies as creative, but hopefully an acceptable recovery of my initial mis-design !!

    Getting closer to finished now - just the support stay to make, and then decide what I'm going to use for bracing on the back of the post to reduce the flex under load.
    Stay will be some 25mm pipe, machined clevis at each end and a piece of 16mm all-thread for adjustment. RH thread only so to adjust it I'll need to pull the clevis pin and rotate it.
    Hoping to make a start on that tonight.

    Oh - there's always SOMETHING else: A guide wire/runner for the power lead to the hoist.

    Steve

  9. #39
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    Dec 2013
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    Your fabrication skills are great, nice brackets.

    If you make your clevis a U shape, the thread rod could enter in the center of the U and right hand thread wouldn't bother you, nore would it need unbolted to adjust it.
    The top of the U would have the holes drilled to suit your post brackets.
    Using Tapatalk

  10. #40
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    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Swing gantry for the workshop

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Your fabrication skills are great, nice brackets.

    If you make your clevis a U shape, the thread rod could enter in the center of the U and right hand thread wouldn't bother you, nore would it need unbolted to adjust it.
    The top of the U would have the holes drilled to suit your post brackets.
    Thanks Dave.

    So you mean the threaded rod would be free to turn in the hole of the clevis, and would need some sort of head or flange to stop it pulling through? Then the outboard end of the threaded rod would screw into something.

    Like this:



    Steve

  11. #41
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    Dec 2013
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    Was thinking something more like this, leaving ring spanner room
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  12. #42
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    You may need to weld 2 brackets close to either side of your mast for it to attach to to give you room for a ring spanner to rotate and tighten it.
    Make the U shape to accommodate your ring spanner at least 1 division, then position the lugs to suit.
    Using 2 lugs would spread the load to both sides of the mast, which will double the strength.
    Using Tapatalk

  13. #43
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    Forgot to add, the other ends can be just welded solidly to the center support, over that length a slight adjustment is not going to bend the rod, so no need for a pivot in the center.
    Using Tapatalk

  14. #44
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Damn - your drawing is much more professional than mine!

    I get what you mean now - thatís nice and simple.

    Made up this clevis for one end tonight.
    BaronJ - I reckon this will be good for a whole herd of elephants!!



    Steve

  15. #45
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    That looks nice and solid
    Using Tapatalk

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