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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    About 3 passes John.
    I ramped it down as I turned the rotary table until I had a couple of mm or so depth then finished going round at that depth - rinse and repeat until it cut through.

    Yes, enjoying the new mill.
    Not 100% sold on the operator position to the right of the table but getting used to it. Great having a DRO but it’s very basic one. Would be nice to have a couple of features such as the center point between 2 points.

    Steve
    You don't have a half function button?
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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    You don't have a half function button?
    Definitely not a button with that function, but it’s still possible that it has the functionality.
    DRO is a Hiedenhain of 1980s vintage. Old style LED segment display..
    I printed out the manual for it the other day - but I need to spend some time and work through it.

    More progress tonight, made a great slotted bracket for adjustment then realized that it wasn’t going to work due to space constraints.



    Set the mast up plumb, and decided that I didn’t need the adjustment so just welded on an angle to bolt to the existing structure.





    Will bolt through the both of the truss plates with crush tubes between.

    Steve

  3. #18
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    As long as the it's TTL signal it might be easier to buy a new Chinese readout with all the modern features and convert the plugs if needed, they can be bought for around $160 posted the last time I looked.

    I think those weld's will hold up fine. I always find it's nice to lay down heavier welds on thick steel.

    A piece of 4x2 with end plates and bolts between trusses would work as well.
    Did you swing the crane from it with a little weight? Just so you know it won't run to one spot.

    I know with mine (which is a lot heavier crane) relying on half timber house support needed to settle over a week, adjusting it until I was satisfied it wasn't going to run to any one spot, and months on it's still spot on.
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  4. #19
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    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Definitely not a button with that function, but it’s still possible that it has the functionality.
    DRO is a Hiedenhain of 1980s vintage. Old style LED segment display..
    I printed out the manual for it the other day - but I need to spend some time and work through it.

    More progress tonight, made a great slotted bracket for adjustment then realized that it wasn’t going to work due to space constraints.



    Steve
    Shame about that slotted bracket ! It would make a great angle plate though. Convenient size as well.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Steve, Guys,



    Shame about that slotted bracket ! It would make a great angle plate though. Convenient size as well.
    Possibly looks bigger in that photo that what it actually is. Its roughly 100 long with 75mm flanges.
    I'm sure I'll find a use for it - might even get keen and square it up a bit!
    Loving the roughing endmills for that sort of quick and dirty work. Clamped one leg of the angle in the vice, drilled a quick hole so I wasn't having to plunge and just milled the horizontal flange. With a typical finishing 4-flute endmill a setup like that with an unsupported flange would normally be singing and chattering with a full diameter cut, but the rougher just chews it up

    Steve

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    As long as the it's TTL signal it might be easier to buy a new Chinese readout with all the modern features and convert the plugs if needed, they can be bought for around $160 posted the last time I looked.

    I think those weld's will hold up fine. I always find it's nice to lay down heavier welds on thick steel.

    A piece of 4x2 with end plates and bolts between trusses would work as well.
    Did you swing the crane from it with a little weight? Just so you know it won't run to one spot.

    I know with mine (which is a lot heavier crane) relying on half timber house support needed to settle over a week, adjusting it until I was satisfied it wasn't going to run to any one spot, and months on it's still spot on.
    Thanks Dave. I can't remember what flavour signal comes out of the existing scales, but its definitely crossed my mind that a new readout might be the way to go. Realistically with the way I work I'll probably do nothing for now other than grumble and then review things in a couple of years unless it dies or gives me a good enough reason to replace it.
    The X axis scale is mounted inside the knee so would need the table off and strip the way covers etc. Having just put all that back together after repairing the lube pump I have zero interest in revisiting it for a while unless I definitely had to!!

    Haven't actually got the gantry arm set up yet to be able to swing it. Good point though about it settling.
    Its still sitting in the back paddock at the moment. Needs cutting to length, and brackets welded onto the mast to attach it.
    Still tossing up what to do for a stay. Given the light load, I probably only need a bit of hot rolled flat pinned through a hole in each end like the commercial ones from Kinchrome and Bunnings. I'm inclined to use a bit of 25mm pipe, with machined clevis at each end. Think I've got a threaded clevis from a hydraulic cylinder around somewhere that might do the job and give a bit of adjustment. Need to have a dig in the scrap pile....

    Steve

  7. #22
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    Grabbed the beam from out the back.



    Made up a couple of attachment lugs and glued them on with the MIG



    And the mating one on the mast.
    Yes, the off center hole was by design - honestly. More material under the hole was the theory



    Top lug for the support tie.



    And the one for the other end on the beam.



    Haven’t got any appropriate material for the tie so it’s just connected using a lifting sling so I could get it off the floor and out of the way





    A quick test with 100kg load on the very end of the beam passed, but there’s a lot more flex in the mast than I expected. Think I’ll be putting some form of brace at the back of the mast across where the beam attaches.

    Steve

  8. #23
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    What size and thickness mast are you using?
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  9. #24
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    Hi Steve.

    It looks as though you could pick up an elephant with that !

    Re the angle plate, you confirmed my guess at about 100 mm, comparing it with the vise jaw width. I actually have two little ones that I made from a short length of 1 inch X 1 inch by 1/4" wall.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Steve.

    It looks as though you could pick up an elephant with that !
    ...
    .
    It coped fine with me swinging on it - I’m not quite elephant class but could perhaps benefit from a bit of social distancing from the fridge
    The beam is way over built for my purpose but the price was right (free!!).

    Dave - the mast is just under 100mm OD with 4mm wall. Think it was 90NB medium.

    Steve

  11. #26
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    Now I’m starting to get an elephant complex. The boss just brought over my coffee...



    Steve

  12. #27
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    Hi Steve,


    Pity there aren't any giggle icons ! Love the mug. But no way I would insinuate that you were fat.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    It coped fine with me swinging on it - I’m not quite elephant class but could perhaps benefit from a bit of social distancing from the fridge
    The beam is way over built for my purpose but the price was right (free!!).

    Dave - the mast is just under 100mm OD with 4mm wall. Think it was 90NB medium.

    Steve
    100mmx4mm pipe over that length is a bit light. A truss at the back with say 50-65x8-10mm flat bar tapering from the beam anchor point on the mast to the top and bottom would help a lot.
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  14. #29
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    Thats along the lines of what I was thinking.
    An alternative would be a purely tension brace ie some 20mm flat or 10mm round to the top and bottom of the post with a short strut on the back of the post immediately behind the lug for the arm.

    Steve

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Thats along the lines of what I was thinking.
    An alternative would be a purely tension brace ie some 20mm flat or 10mm round to the top and bottom of the post with a short strut on the back of the post immediately behind the lug for the arm.

    Steve
    Exactly my thoughts and what I was trying to right
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