Results 121 to 135 of 145
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10th Apr 2020, 05:25 PM #121
Good Morning Steve,
Glad to be of help
Nice work area, I like the view, you can sit and think whilst watching the wildlife.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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10th Apr 2020, 09:56 PM #122
Hi Steve,
Hey talking about wildlife, we’ve just had a pheasant wander into the garden. Bugger it had gone by the time I'd got my camera out.
Edited to add: A couple of years ago we had a blackbird that had become so tame that it would sit on top of one of the garden chairs whilst we were eating out in the garden.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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10th Apr 2020, 10:38 PM #123Most Valued Member
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Not a lot of wildlife around here compared to many places in Oz.
A few pairs of doves, wattle birds and honey eaters and some pairs of grass parrots that seem to come and go - and of course the typical sparrows and magpies etc
My parents in NZ get reasonably regular pheasants and frequent quail around their place.
Back to the TOS - I think the VFD will be pretty protected back here. I’ll put a shroud over the fan outlet to stop anything falling into that.
Speed control pot mounted on the top of the console.
I need to find out how to replace the light bulb inside the spindle FWD button. The REV bulb is OK.
I’m hoping the white button comes out somehow...
Steve
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11th Apr 2020, 12:11 AM #124
Hi Steve,
I think it would have been nice to be able to mount the VFD on the inside of the door, but I don't think that you will have the clearance from the pulleys.
As far as the bulb behind the white lens is concerned, you might need the plastic wrench that unscrews the lens and you might also need the puller for the bulb. I think that it might be a wedge type.
The last time I used one of those was on some Christmas fairy lights, about 3 or 4 volt rating I think.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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11th Apr 2020, 10:27 AM #125Most Valued Member
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Thanks - I’ll see if I can get the button to unscrew.
Inside the door would have been good from a protection point of view, but probably more of a pain to wire up. As you say, no clearance anyway.
I considered going inside the electrical cabinet - easy wiring but it’s completely enclosed so no ventilation.
Steve
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11th Apr 2020, 01:39 PM #126Most Valued Member
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Spot on - the white cap unscrews. The bulbs are 24v2W bayonet style.
The ones that came out are Tesla brand so may be the originals!!
A piece of heat shrink tube was a nice fit over the bulb to remove it.
Final job with the electricals is to work out how to power the DRO.
Its 240v and was originally powered from the neutral on a 4-wire supply, but my phase converter has a delta wired idler so no neutral.
None of the existing transformers have 240v secondary so next easiest option is to use one of the 110v outputs and change the input voltage selection on the DRO to suit.
Hopefully the 300mA it needs won’t cause any issue.
Steve.
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11th Apr 2020, 06:50 PM #127
Hi Steve,
Those bayonet bulbs are quite common, its worth checking the others for darkening and replacing them. Don't be tempted to get the higher 3.3 Watt ones, they will get too hot and melt the lens. You can often recognise them by the longer bulb. The type that I thought they would be is the push in wedge type. You can get LED type replacements as well.
Did you have the tool for removing the lens ? They are not as common as they once were. I have a couple of different size ones. They usually came in the box with the lamp/switch assembly. I think mine are "Telemecanique" brand. I've not seen them for a while.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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11th Apr 2020, 07:22 PM #128Most Valued Member
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DRO working happily on 110v
Replaced the old clutch and brake snubber diodes.
Steve
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11th Apr 2020, 07:41 PM #129
Hi Steve,
Looking good !
Sorry I missed the question about running the DRO on the 110 volt supply. 300ma wont matter at all.
But I see that you have already got it working.
Watching with great interest.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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11th Apr 2020, 08:54 PM #130Most Valued Member
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I initially set the DRO input selector to 120v as the voltage measured 122v.
Found the DRO was dropping out when I hit any of the feed buttons, as the loaded voltage was dropping to about 108v.
Selected 100v on the DRO input and it’s working fine now.
Apart from a couple of light bulbs, that’s got the machine itself sorted electrically.
Still need to do the spindle tacho and a worklight but will tackle those in due course.
Steve
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11th Apr 2020, 10:36 PM #131Most Valued Member
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I was lucky in that the lube indicator (bottom left of the console) is just a light, and its not as deep as the pushbutton switches. I could get a bit of rubber hose on that lamp and push/pull twist a bit until it came out. Its much easier to do the others when you have a sample in your hand...
I haven't got the proper tool for removing the pushbuttons, but some skilled application of a pair of 90deg circlip pliers did the job
Thanks for the tip to avoid the higher wattage bulbs.
Steve
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11th Apr 2020, 11:55 PM #132
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the tip to avoid the higher wattage bulbs.
Yes that is one of the things you don't find out about until you start to wander why the lens is going brown and deteriorating.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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12th Apr 2020, 06:20 AM #133
Hi Steve,
In your picture of the diodes, did you forget to solder in number eight ? Extreme right hand one. It looks to be just hung there waiting for the soldering iron to arrive.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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12th Apr 2020, 09:56 AM #134Most Valued Member
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Good call John, it does look a bit dodgy in the photo.
I checked to confirm - all good
Another job on the list is to replace the Y and Z axis hand wheels. They are made from some sort of phenolic or Bakelite looking material, and it obviously doesn’t cope with any impact.
The crank handles have broken off more than once.
Not sure what material to use to make new ones though. Diameter is 160 and the thickness at the hub is 50mm.
Would be a great little casting project...
Steve
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12th Apr 2020, 06:25 PM #135Most Valued Member
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Good outcome, gr8 teamwork there fella's
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