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  1. #136
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default The joy of having a TOS.... ( FNGJ32 mill )

    Knocked up a bracket for the tacho sensor out of a bit of aluminium angle. Stuck it to the spindle housing with some Loctite super glue.





    Glued the magnet to the spindle with the same loctite.

    Not convinced on the sensor location but not much choice.
    I think the display will end up on the main console with the speed control pot, but for starters I’ll just mount it temporarily on the ram.



    Just the Ebay cheapie that others have used but it’s easy to read and works well.
    The magnet polarity is important though - if it’s round the wrong way it definitely won’t work.

    Edit - fixed up the poor photo.

    Steve

  2. #137
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Big handwheel ! Alloy ones would look nice, though I sure that I've seen something similar somewhere on line.

    Might be an idea to have a look in the casting forum.

    OK about the diodes. I thought I'd better mention the dodgy looking one.

    Just a quick tip ! If you are worried about heat damaging them during soldering, a pair of pliers with an elastic band round the handles to keep them closed, nipped onto the wire next to the diode body whilst you solder them.
    It will act as a heat sink giving you plenty of time to make a good joint.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #138
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default The joy of having a TOS.... ( FNGJ32 mill )

    Making a bit more progress...

    Picked up some new light bulbs, installed them, and they didn't work...
    Turned out to be an issue with the fuses - I hadn't screwed them back in properly after having to remove them to rewire the DRO for 110v.
    I find those "milk bottle" fuses to be a PITA in that regard as the little spring clip that is meant to prevent them from unscrewing due to vibration etc makes it hard to tell if you've got the thread engaged correctly. A few times I've had to push the spring clip out of the way while I screw the fuse in, then flick it back into position.
    All good now though, I have a general power light, and FWD and REV spindle running lights

    New belt (plus a spare) finally arrived for the lube pump. Belt is 2" longer than original as originals are unobtanium unless you want to buy 48 of them.

    Set about working out how to take up the extra length.

    First I made a 10mm spacer plate to mount the motor on, and relocate it up and out from the pump. 10mm thick turned out to be a touch too much and the motor hit on the inside of the knee housing, so had to mill 3mm off the back.



    Belt was much better but still too loose, so the next thing was to make up an idler pulley to take up the extra slack.
    Scratched around a bit and found a couple of bearings the same, and a shoulder bolt that suited their bore, but it was a bit longer than it needed to be.
    Bored a bit of steel so the bolt would go inside it and drilled/tapped 3/8 UNC to suit the bolt.

    Made a bracket to mount it on, and welded it up. Black oxide finish was achieved by leaving it on the bench after welding and heading in for dinner, then rubbing on a bit of oil once it had cooled....



    I'd re-checked it for position after tacking, but once it was all welded up and bolted on the belt was still a fraction loose.
    Fixed that by making a sleeve to go over the outside of the bearings to increase the diameter.
    Perfect!!



    Steve

  4. #139
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Nice ! It looks like it belonged there.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #140
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Been putting the knee back together.

    Found why there was coolant in the knee oil - it was from a couple of holes that had been drilled and threaded in the top cover in a past life.
    Looks like they were used to mount an alignment bar of some sort, but that had been removed so the open holes were allowing coolant in.

    I tossed up whether or not to weld them up, but decided to just make a couple of small rivets to plug them with.







    All the covers back on.



    Steve

  6. #141
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default The joy of having a TOS.... ( FNGJ32 mill )

    Tonight the mill made the final leg of its journey to its new home in my slowly evolving "machine shop".
    Cut some lengths of 25NB gal pipe to roll it on, lifted it up with the gantry slid the pipe under and lowered it.
    I could *just* push it on the nice flat concrete in the main workshop, but as soon as it hit the particleboard I was using to match up the small step between sheds it stopped, and I had to get out the lever block to finish the job:













    Finally in its new home. It definitely consumes some floor space.
    If everything goes to plan the next time it moves will be someone else's problem!!

    Still have some minor wiring to do to finish off the spindle tacho. I 3D printed a nicer box to hold both the display and the speed control pot, and just need to make a simple voltage regulator to power it from the 24VDC supply that's already in the console. The tacho spec says it can take 8-24vdc input but the mill is more like 27v. I've already got enough bits for the regulator so figure I'm better to spend 20mins making one than let the smoke out of the tacho if it can't cope with the higher voltage.

    I'm hanging out to actually use it, but the workshop is a crapfest at present and I've got a handful of half-completed jobs around the place that need to be finished first before I launch into any new projects. Hopefully it will be making chips within the next couple of weeks.

    Steve

  7. #142
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default The joy of having a TOS.... ( FNGJ32 mill )

    Well the "not using it just yet" lasted less than 24hrs.
    One of the half finished jobs I referred to was rebuilding the cutting deck on the ride on mower. It seized a bearing last weekend so I've stripped all 3 spindles out to replace the bearings.
    Apart from the bearings being stuffed, 2 of the cast aluminium drive plates for the blades were flogged out, so I decided to make some new steel ones as I had some suitable 16mm plate.





    I threw the old CASH vice on the mill and drilled the blade mount holes ( I'm loving the DRO and power feeds!! ).
    I drilled the 20mm shaft hole on the first plate but wasn't happy with the fit on the shaft so thought it would be a perfect time to pull out the boring head I bought off a member here last year (but haven't used).
    Its a boring/facing head, so took me half an hour to digest the manual enough to work out how to drive it for boring.
    Took the first couple of cuts using the quill, then let it go with the power feed. Nice......




    Steve

  8. #143
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Not using it just yet.....

    Like that was ever going to last with a machine like that!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #144
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default Return of the nong...

    The mill has been chugging along nicely, haven't really done anything more in regards to finishing off the spindle tacho install etc.

    The other night it started playing funny buggers again with the feeds. Rapid worked, but normal feed felt like it wasn't engaging. The relevant axis would start to move a bit then just slow down and stop - exactly the same symptoms I had when the timer was stuffed......Noooooooooooo....... not again!!!
    Checked the timer - getting ~24v at terminal 255 which goes to the normal feed clutch solenoid - so OK
    Checked resistance through the solenoid - about 20 ohms - so OK.
    Pulled the feed motor fuses and listened for the clutch solenoid click - sounds fine so refitted them.
    Removed the cover on the side of the feed gearbox - all looks good, and can see the clutch is actuating, and can't move the plates when it does. Its not rotating though....

    It was getting late and cold so I called it quits and went inside, had a look over the manuals and drawings looking for something that I was missing - but nothing obvious.
    The drivetrain schematic does my head in as its 2D but the gearbox is 3d with shafts in 2 planes - the upper shaft in the schematic is physically lower in the gearbox so unless you're looking at both of them at the same time its a brain bender (or at least it is for me).

    Tonight I managed to convince the boss to leave the warm lounge and push some buttons while I watched what happened, and it finally clicked. The drive for the rapid feed comes off the input shaft BEFORE the feed speed selection gearbox.
    Yup - you guessed it, the feed gearbox wasn't engaged properly and I'd just wasted at least a couple of hours working it out!

    I was sure the rapid didn't work if the gearbox wasn't engaged properly - but I was obviously wrong. Doh!

    So to summarise some of the operation while its fresh in my head:
    - Drive from the feed motor goes via the gearbox to the normal feed clutch
    - Drive from the feed motor is directly connected to the rapid feed clutch
    - There is a timer involved in the switching of the normal feed clutch, but the rapid clutch is switched directly by the button on the console ( rapid button also disengages the normal feed clutch)
    - from the normal/rapid feeds, output goes to the same output shaft, and from there either up to the Y axis feed via a clutch (Y feed clutch), or via the (knee feed) clutch to a chain drive down into the knee for the X/Z drives.
    - In the knee there is a separate clutches for X and Z axis.
    - The leadscrew for each axis also has a brake that is engaged briefly when the feed is stopped to prevent overrun. These brakes basically the same solenoid operated clutch pack as the drive clutches, but one side is fixed to the machine and the other to the leadscrew.

    Hopefully that might help someone else out there in the future (or even myself after another few rounds of the fishbowl....)

    Steve

  10. #145
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default The joy of having a TOS.... ( FNGJ32 mill )

    My repair on the oil pump worm wheel didn’t last as long as I hoped.

    Earlier in the week I noticed that there wasn’t any oil coming through the lube indicator window in the knee. The issue turned out to be the worm gear had worn badly due the rust pitting on the worm itself chewing it up.

    Removed it today







    I know the proper fix is to make up a new hardened worm and gear but I’ve got too many other projects right now for that.
    So I took the easy way out and refitted the original steel gear. Its quite worn but none of the teeth are completely chewed up so I reversed it so it drives on the other flank. Hopefully get at least another 6 months out of it.

    The worst part of the job was removing the top cover off the knee, as I’d done a great job of sealing it on last time

    Positive things are that the new belt and fabricated tensioner are working well, and the swing gantry I built a while back did a great job of lifting the table off.

    I think I mentioned it last time I messed about with it, but it takes ages to prime the system and for the oil to get from the pump to the delivery points. Probably about 15mins with the pump running constantly.
    Thankfully it stays primed and doesn’t all run back into sump when you turn it off.

    Steve

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