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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Thiel model 17 metal bandsaw

    I picked up this bandsaw last year, but didn't have the room at home at the time so its been sitting in the workshop at work.
    The motor runs but thats as much as I'd done with it.
    Finally got it home yesterday so thought I'd share a few photos for anyone interested.

    Flat belt drive, 4 speed, built in air pump and nozzle to blow away swarf and is approx 14" throat.













    Steve

  2. #2
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    Nov 2017
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    Default

    A couple more





    Steve

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    5,942

    Default

    Like the bandsaw blade welder, that'll certainly save you a few Shekals.
    One good thing about heavy machines like that, no one will pinch them in a hurry.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    That looks to be a really hefty beast ! I particularly like the rating and instruction plates, nothing can beat having the data at hand.

    I presume that it is earmarked for a restoration job.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    It is a beauty.

    While your saw is built like a brick dunny but I bet it will run like a swiss watch.
    Nice buy!

    With the flash butt welder I assume you shall be buying your blades in 100 foot rolls.

    A business that might be able to help with the whole rolls is:

    https://www.unitedproducts.com.au/index.php/blade. Even if you don't buy from them there is some damn good info re setting up your blade.



    Grahame

  6. #6
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    Default Thiel model 17 metal bandsaw

    Thanks all.

    BaronJ - it definitely deserves a full restoration, but I've got too many other projects on the go so I think for a start it will just get a good clean/check/lube then sort out the wiring and put it into service.
    I've got a new 10mm bimetal 10-14 TPI blade here ready to fit.

    The blade welder is definitely a bonus. Been over 25 years since I last used one but where I was working at that stage had big vertical BS with welder/grinder and we made up our own blades.
    Hopefully this one actually works!!
    I'm not plugging it in until I've at least had a look inside to see what condition it's in...

    I reckon bandsaws and linishers are close cousins in the workshop. You can always survive without them, but when they are available the become "go to" tools and get used all the time.

    I'm interested to find out what the pedal and lever on the front are for too

    Steve

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

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    OxxAndBert

    Here is some reading that may be helpful when sorting out the welder on your bandsaw.

    https://fahringer.com/pwt-article.html

    Grahame

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Thanks all.

    I'm interested to find out what the pedal and lever on the front are for too

    Steve
    I think that it might be the blade end closing lever for use when butt welding blades. The blades are fastened into the holder and the pedal pressed to butt them together and turn on the welding timer.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #9
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    Nov 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Steve,



    I think that it might be the blade end closing lever for use when butt welding blades. The blades are fastened into the holder and the pedal pressed to butt them together and turn on the welding timer.
    Good thought, but no.
    The pedal looks like it's a mechanical linkage to a on/off clutch for the chip blower.



    Hard to see in the photo but the pedal moves something axially on the shaft next to the blower eccentric. I assume it's a clutch.

    The pedal has a latch on it to hold it down once pressed.

    Up:


    Down:


    Steve

  10. #10
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    Nov 2017
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    Default

    Continuing with a clean and inspect.

    The top end seems fine, bearings are ok and the raise/lower for blade tensioning is smooth. Silky smooth!
    Nice arrangement. Main support shaft with clamp, secondary shaft to keep it aligned and a central screw with handwheel to adjust.
    Check out the awesome round knob on the handwheel. It's sooo nice to use.





    Steve

  11. #11
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Thiel model 17 metal bandsaw

    Drive is flat belt to a 90 deg inside the body, then a pinion that runs on a gear mounted to the blade drive wheel.
    I initially thought the 90deg drive was a bevel gear going by the way it behaved with backlash etc, but now think that might be incorrect.

    Pinion:


    Drive wheel and gear:


    The drive wheel is interesting - it has this flange attached by screws on the outer face:


    Steve

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Thiel model 17 metal bandsaw

    The bearing behind the pinion has noticeable play so I'll pull that apart - hopefully just a bearing replacement.
    The pinion itself is slightly loose on the shaft, but I can't find any outward clue as to how it's attached. No key or grub screw etc.


    The other end of the shaft doesn't offer any clues either.


    The shaft runs across the top in this photo, so I'm guessing that it might be retained by the gear on the other shaft. That appears to have a set screw on the RH side to locate the shaft;


    Steve

  13. #13
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    Nov 2017
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    Default Thiel model 17 metal bandsaw

    What does have me completely stuffed though, is what the other lever on the front is for.
    Its connected to a weight inside the column. At the top of the shaft that the weight slides on there is the remains of a teleflex cable. Just the outer, and its been cut where it exits the back of the column.
    There's a brass adjuster mechanism on the top of the weight which sets how far the weight can go down.
    I'm guessing a counterweight for something, but NFI what!!!









    Steve

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    395

    Default

    That’s a brazing unit.
    We used silver solder, hammered flat.
    Scarf the blade ends, add flux and put the silver solder in the joint.
    The unit melts the solder and you squash it.
    We also just used the oxy and a home made alignment jig, these old units are a pita.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  15. #15
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by clear out View Post
    That’s a brazing unit.
    We used silver solder, hammered flat.
    Scarf the blade ends, add flux and put the silver solder in the joint.
    The unit melts the solder and you squash it.
    We also just used the oxy and a home made alignment jig, these old units are a pita.
    H.
    Thanks - that makes sense. I was wondering what the handle in the middle was for!

    I've resistance welded and oxy-brazed blades before, but never come across one of these units.
    Its definitely an add-on to the saw, not original.
    Interested to see how it goes, or even IF it goes!

    Steve

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