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  1. #31
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    Oct 2016
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    Back to working on the diff, just completed shorting the left side axle today. Had to make sure i cut the axle to the right length. I think i will chuck the two axle parts in the lathe and tack weld and then do a full weld, then weld on a steel sleeve.

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  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    I guess there's two ways of looking at the sleeve option.
    First is that it should add strength to the joint area, but second is that it creates a reasonable section change with a HAZ at that point. In other words you may have only moved the likely failure point not actually made it stronger.
    Are you planning anything special for the welding or just going to hit it with the MIG?

    Out of interest, did you consider just shortening and resplining the shaft?

    Steve

  3. #33
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    I guess there's two ways of looking at the sleeve option.
    First is that it should add strength to the joint area, but second is that it creates a reasonable section change with a HAZ at that point. In other words you may have only moved the likely failure point not actually made it stronger.
    Are you planning anything special for the welding or just going to hit it with the MIG?

    Out of interest, did you consider just shortening and resplining the shaft?

    Steve
    Yeah i will use the mig, and will notch the ends of the steel sleeves to give it a longer weld instead of a circular weld, it may minimising the chances of it cracking
    I was thinking of respining, it's a bugger to machine off that hard crust and then it would need to get re hardened.

  4. #34
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    My line of thinking is that a hardened spline will do 500K km's in a standard vehicle without major wear.
    For what you're building I don't think you need that sort of longevity and wear resistance, and just recutting the splines and leaving them as-is would be probably be OK. I wouldn't think the lack of case hardening would affect the strength of the spline itself but I might be wrong.

    Steve

  5. #35
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    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    470

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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    My line of thinking is that a hardened spline will do 500K km's in a standard vehicle without major wear.
    For what you're building I don't think you need that sort of longevity and wear resistance, and just recutting the splines and leaving them as-is would be probably be OK. I wouldn't think the lack of case hardening would affect the strength of the spline itself but I might be wrong.

    Steve
    The diameters changes along the length of the axle, so once i cut to size and machine to the correct diameter i will lose the case hardening. I found out when i machine and drilled the hole on the left axle it was a lot easier to work with once the case hardening was removed.

  6. #36
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    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Been busy looking for parts for the trike, i got used brake drum parts for the diff and got a couple of mags as well. Will give them a good clean up and paint.

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  7. #37
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Once more i mock up the rear end with the drums and mags. The track is 56 inches.

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  8. #38
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    And made up gussets for the diff and gearbox structure out of 3 mm plate, which will be welded on top and bottom.

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  9. #39
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    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    n ddddWallis latest engine build. This is a


  10. #40
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    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Not much work done on the trike project as yet, but have a vid of John Wallis latest engine build. This is a bit of a educational video on how this type of turbine works.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNsJ2Y3NP04

  11. #41
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    OK getting back into the build again, almost done building the structure for the diff and gearbox. using 1/2 bolts throughout the frame and made a mockup of the sprockets not the actual size i will be using. Had to modify the base plate under the diff so to have room for the chain, machine down the diff yoke, may see if i can find one made out of steel as this is cast steel don't know if it will be strong enough.

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  12. #42
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Finished the frame structure for the gearbox and diff, welded in some structure supports in between the gussets and painted. Made a good tack weld on the perches, will fully weld latter and welded in a bolt into the vent hole on the axle tube. And made a mockup of were some of the auxiliary components will be installed, 12 volt battery tray, Oil cooler and fan for the gearbox, gear pump for oil differential lubrication and 2.5 hp IC engine for alternator and maybe vacuum pump for the drum brakes.

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  13. #43
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Coming along nicely.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #44
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    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Coming along nicely.

    Simon
    Thanks mate Lot of work on this structure, still have to weld the axles together.

  15. #45
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Seems like a lot of hassle to run an aux engine.
    Could you not have run those things from an accessory drive from the turbine?

    Steve

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