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  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Vermont 3133 Victoria
    Posts
    248

    Default

    G’day Simon,
    Do you want to borrow any straight edges. I have 1 with dovetail edge and a couple of other plain ones.
    Cheers Bruce

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Thanks Bruce. PM sent.

    I'm up to about cycle no. 26 on the underneath of the ram.

    It doesn't seem to be getting any better or any worse in terms of the contact area. In short I'm starting to chase my tail.

    I'm going to have a think about my technique. The amount of blue I'm using and my scraping technique.

    When you start chasing your tail it usually means your not doing something right or your not seeing something that you should be.

    As it stands it's a 1000 times better than when I started.

    It's got to be reasonable flat, I can't place a 0.02'smm feeler gauge under any part of the ram when. It's on the plate


    I might start putting together a jig to measure the parallelness of the dovetails.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

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    Simon, to me that does not look too bad. I think you are at the stage where it is mostly flat but there is a bit of droop at the ends. Unfortunately that means the whole lot has to come down in level to clean up those low spots. Biax time usually.

    doing well though.

    Michael

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    Thanks to rf the input and encouragement Michael.

    Those end bits are really taking their sweet time to "come up".

    They don't even look worn as such. It makes me wonder If they were low from new but that does not make sense. Certainly it does not make sense to me for the rear or the front part of the ram to be low in relation to the rest.

    How can you preferentially wear the front and rear?

    Biax time you reckon? I won't lie it's been bloody hard work by hand. There's a bit more surface area than those small blocks we did in the scraping class!

    Luckily Bruce has been generous in his offer of a lend of his biax.

    Looking forward to using it. I've got approx 2 minutes experience with one so it will be interesting!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Thanks to rf the input and encouragement Michael.

    Those end bits are really taking their sweet time to "come up".

    They don't even look worn as such. It makes me wonder If they were low from new but that does not make sense. Certainly it does not make sense to me for the rear or the front part of the ram to be low in relation to the rest.

    How can you preferentially wear the front and rear?

    Biax time you reckon? I won't lie it's been bloody hard work by hand. There's a bit more surface area than those small blocks we did in the scraping class!

    Luckily Bruce has been generous in his offer of a lend of his biax.

    Looking forward to using it. I've got approx 2 minutes experience with one so it will be interesting!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Maybe the casting has bowed over the years as well as worn, would that explain it's thought to be wear?
    Using Tapatalk

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Simon, Guys,

    Just thinking out loud !

    If the ram was not tightened down enough, wouldn’t the act of pushing the cutter through the work tend to lift the front and push the rear down. Also the arm pulling the ram forward would tend to pull it down at the front until it hit the work and then lift it.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    BJ, you'd need to check the area where the ram runs to ascertain that theory. It is a very good possibility though.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    Hi guys. Yea I suspect they are all plausible theories.

    I had a bit of a play yesterday, I cleaned up the base and put the ram back in place. While the ways on the base need to be scraped, I can already feel the difference with what I have Done on the ram. It slides quite nicely.

    Hope to get a few more scraping cycles in today. See where we get.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Drouin Vic
    Posts
    633

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    I'm watching this thread with interest as i have the exact same shaper, in pretty much the same condition as your starting point. I'm thinking you should offer an exchange reco service.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O View Post
    I'm watching this thread with interest as i have the exact same shaper, in pretty much the same condition as your starting point. I'm thinking you should offer an exchange reco service.
    Ha yea great. Watch my mistakes and have a laugh at my expense!

    The scraping by hand is not easy work but that aside I'm having a bit of fun and it's an intersting journey so far. I think a shaper is a great machine to start your first machine scraping project. Also if your shaper is in similar shape to mine then you won't need to worry about making it any worse. You can learn and hone your scraping skills as you go and still be confident your are making improvments.

    I'm not looking forward to scraping the underside dovetails on the base. That will be awkward.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Ha yea great. Watch my mistakes and have a laugh at my expense! Simon
    Simon by the time that you have finished PeteO's shaper the third one (mine) will be a breeze.

    I am also enjoying this thread and kick myself for missing the scraping classes.

    cheers, shed

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    I've just taken possession of Bruce's (argeng) biax scraper so when I get home from work tomorrow I'm going to cut sick with it and have a go!

    That should speed things up......

    Either that or I'll dig myself a hole!

    Macson 18" Shaper spruce up WIP

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    OK. first go at using a biax machine.

    A few of observations from a novice;

    1) They are really efficient at scraping and make the process much less arduous;
    2) The stroke adjustment helps produce very consistent scraping patterns;
    3) Very easy to take more material away than is required;
    4) You really have to re-adjust your scraping style and learn again
    5) With great power comes great responsibility!
    6) It still gets bloody heavy after a while!

    At this stage I can only manage to scrape left to right. I can't sway back and fourth like I have seen Nick Mueller do!

    In summing up:

    I want a Biax!!


    No pics yet of my latest effort. I have to duck out. I'm almost scared to blue it up and have a look!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Dural NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,203

    Default Scraping Blue

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    OK. first go at using a biax machine.

    A few of observations from a novice;

    1) They are really efficient at scraping and make the process much less arduous;
    2) The stroke adjustment helps produce very consistent scraping patterns;
    3) Very easy to take more material away than is required;
    4) You really have to re-adjust your scraping style and learn again
    5) With great power comes great responsibility!
    6) It still gets bloody heavy after a while!

    At this stage I can only manage to scrape left to right. I can't sway back and fourth like I have seen Nick Mueller do!

    In summing up:

    I want a Biax!!


    No pics yet of my latest effort. I have to duck out. I'm almost scared to blue it up and have a look!

    Simon
    Simon
    I have tried various Prussian Blue powders & grease oil mixtures, without much luck.
    However the Blue that seems to work for me comes out of Repco Auto shop, its called "Power Plus Bearing Blue Stock No PP103" in a 25 ml tube.
    Have done a lot of scraping with it & very happy with its performance.
    Bruce

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    Thanks Bruce.

    I have been finding that my homebrew stuff is very stiff to smear out on the plate. I heated it up in bath of boiling water and added mixes or oil and then also thinners but it's still very stiff.

    Two days ago I bought some Prussian blue my Permatex which seems easier to work with.

    I'm keen to try some water based Canode but it seems difficult to get in Aus.

    I'm finding that the ambient light and angle plays a big part too.

    Also seems to be a fine line between not enough blue so it becomes hard to see/read and too much so that it creates smears and fault spots. Also the amount movement on the plate of the part when you are spotting plays a part too.

    If you rub the part back and fourth too many times you start to get too much blue collecting and creating false spots.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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