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15th Jul 2019, 01:25 PM #1Intermediate Member
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Making a mezzanine floor in shed. What size purlins etc?
Hi folks
I need to create some storage space in the shed. (Some would say I need to de-clutter).
Anyway, I have a Ranbuild shed 16m x 8m x 4.5m I would like to put the mezzanine in one corner. I am looking at doing it as a triangular shape and therefore remove the need for a post if possible.
It would basically be 3m x 4m x 5m (good old Pythagoras) with the 5m length going from one "upright" at the end to across to the other down the side.
It would only be used for storage of lighter items, eskies, fold up chairs etc/
Does anyone have any thoughts purlin and rafter size and spacing?
Thanks in advance
Ash
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15th Jul 2019, 03:13 PM #2Most Valued Member
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Your best bet would be to consult an Engineer who specialises in that sort of thing. MichaelG wrote an excellent article as to the why's and wherefore's in the following article, which is worth reading.
https://metalworkforums.com/showthre...22#post1952922
Someone could suggest a certain size material to do what you want to store, but in 5 years time you have to sell the place, someone else buys it and wants to store V8 motors up there. First couple of weeks things are OK, then one of their kids are playing on or under the mezzanine, and it falls down injuring the child. The new owner wants blood, he doesn't care where it comes from, he's going to track you down, find out where you got the info from to build it, doesn't matter that you built it to take your deck chairs and umbrellas etc. Then he's going to go after the person on this forum or maybe the forum itself. ETC ETC.
Unfortunately litigation is the only winner here.
HTH
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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15th Jul 2019, 04:15 PM #3Most Valued Member
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Any reason why you don't go square rather than triangular?
Couldnt make out from your post how you were going to attach the floor to the roof, but would think if you went 3x3 from the corner you could use a 75x75x 2.5/3mm dropper from your roof purlin.
If you used 100x15 c purlins for the outer frame and additional floor bracing at metre centres secured to your existing purlin or suitable frame work with steel plates and bolts for the outer frame and vertical support it should be fine for holding the weight described.
I would secure the additional bracing/ securing points with 3 mm by 50/60 mm flat bent at 90 degrees or required angle with at least 3 trek screws per face, I would then have the flooring of suitable strength secured to the top of the purlins.
I would not be using bolts under 10 mm diameter for the securing points to the wall and roof fixing locations.
If you make it square you have access from both sides.
I would suggest that this type of storage needs to be over engineered rather than under, if finances are a consideration then I would suggest that you give it a miss.
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15th Jul 2019, 04:57 PM #4Most Valued Member
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My thoughts.....
You should be able to get a building standards book at your local council building dept.
It is likely that the shed posts that you plan to use won't cater for a 3, 4 or 5 mtr floor span and will need to be upgraded as they will not be thick enough, you might get away with support posts beside the shed posts but you would have to check if this ok and how to brace them.
Although I have seen purlins used for mezzanine floors this would need to have the comps done by an engineer, you might have to put 2 heavy gauge purlins back to back, it would likely be cheaper to use timber.
The 5 mtr span would need the correct size laminated beam or a suitable steel beam.
Purlins are primarily used for roof and walls and are designed for wind loads not necessarily floor loads.
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15th Jul 2019, 05:23 PM #5Intermediate Member
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Thanks gents. After reading the article Kryn pointed me to it may be better if admins delete the post, please.
My apologies.
Regards
Ash
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15th Jul 2019, 05:55 PM #6Most Valued Member
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Good luck with getting your stuff off the floor, maybe just build another shed.
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15th Jul 2019, 06:24 PM #7
No triangular specs, but plenty of engineered data in the links in here - https://www.libertygfg.com/metalcent...-steel-floors/
I used that system to build a mezzanine in my shed earlier this year.Cheers.
Vernon.
__________________________________________________
Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.
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16th Jul 2019, 02:10 PM #8
I don't know about building approvals/restrictions in NSW, but if permitted, I suspect that a 4m x 3m garden shed would be cheaper and easier to access than a triangular mezzanine and offer twice the space. But of course it depends upon the prevailing regulations and your councils interpretation of them, plus partner/landlords acceptance of the concept.
I had a 16m x 12m American barn built in 2006 and wanted to be able install full length mezzanines in both skillions at a later date. That involved upgrading outer columns from single 150C's to single 200C's and the inners from back to back 150C's to back to back 200C's. This put about $2500 onto the shed bill and another 1K onto the floor and footings bill, and the mezzanines never went in.
Will be starting a replacement barn at our new place soon, anticipating making the centre 1m wider, and will be having the shed guys do the mezzanines as part of the build as wife believes that I am not up to that sort of work anymore, even with a fork to do the lifting. Both barns were/are engineered for the loads I might create, but I suspect the floor of your Ranbuilt probably would be designed to just carry floor loads and not blow away in a storm. Even with extra uprights around the back and side of the mezzanine, there is no guarantee that the floor would carry the point loads transmitted to it by the uprights.
Just my 2c worthI used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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19th Jul 2019, 05:11 PM #9Intermediate Member
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19th Jul 2019, 10:01 PM #10Senior Member
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I used two rows of pallet racking with top hats spaced at 450mm across them. Racking about 900mm deep, approx 1.8m between the two so you end up with about 3.6m wide mezzanine. I topped with yellow tongue flooring - absolutely temporary and easily removed but super strong for storage.
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20th Jul 2019, 09:57 AM #11
It's a free standing structure. 4250 x 3800, including the stairs (so the actual floor space is a little smaller).
I had family working in the steel business at the time, so the steel for that and another structure came in at $1000. I reckon it probably cost me (with flooring) around $1200.Cheers.
Vernon.
__________________________________________________
Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.
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19th Jan 2023, 10:03 PM #12
Hey there! I like the idea of utilizing the space in your shed by adding a mezzanine floor.
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20th Jan 2023, 10:12 PM #13
I've done a similar project before and found it helpful to use a website like rackbuy.co.uk for determining the right purlin and rafter size and spacing. They have various options and resources to help guide you through the process. Good luck!
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21st Jan 2023, 12:04 AM #14Most Valued Member
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Whatever you do as far as design and construction, I would strongly urge you to establish the maximum load allowable, both overall and point loading and then clearly mark that where it cannot fail to be seen. Mezzanines can easily start out as one thing and gradually creep into out of design scope territory, particularly if you were to sell or rent the property for some reason.
Timber prices have gone through the roof lately and steel still seems to stack up fairly well when I've made the comparison lately, however flooring costs need to be closely watched as an awful lot of winteks can get eaten up screwing floors down to steel.
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21st Jan 2023, 07:05 AM #15Senior Member
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[QUOTE=Karl Robbers;2004065]Whatever you do as far as design and construction, I would strongly urge you to establish the maximum load allowable, both overall and point loading and then clearly mark that where it cannot fail to be seen. Mezzanines can easily start out as one thing and gradually creep into out of design scope territory, particularly if you were to sell or rent the property for some reason.
/QUOTE]
Now that's the most sensible answer to those that always pop up with the "what ifs" when the new owner overload the structure and come's looking to sue the home builder.
John
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