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Thread: Spindle motor
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17th Apr 2019, 05:02 PM #1Most Valued Member
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Spindle motor
I bought this motor just prior to the gst getting put onto our imported goodies, I don't know why I pushed the button on a water cooled motor, but I did, and now I had to mount the thing and cool it.
The spindle motor is one of those chinese 2.2 kw 3 phase motors, it is supposed to have less than .005 mm run out on the er20 collet chuck.
The reason for the spindle motor is that I have a need to do some internal grinding and polishing on a couple of future projects and want to be able to do this on my lathe and TPG so it needs to fit both.
So I put the parts that i had together on the bench and the radiator was bought to fit the footprint of those parts,
the thing also had to fit on the shelf behind the grinder.
I had a look around and seen that others were using poota parts for cooling and wondered how well that would work in my shed on a 44 degree day, i had my doubts, so at this stage it is suck it and see how it goes, i might have to put a flow control on the water to slow it down going through the radiator, but then again i don't think the motor will work as hard as it would if it was routing.
The motor brackets came from 2 different suppliers and were not the same, they were also pretty rough and needed a bit of cleaning up.
The coolant tank is an old ride on mower fuel tank,
Temp controller from ebay.
Water pump is a hot water solar pump so it should have a ceramic seal and with a bit of luck the soluble oil that i put in the water wont stuff it up.
Oil cooler for a radiator and a thermo fan, yep you guessed it....ebay
VFD............86 bucks...yup, ebay
An old arlec battery charger, i fitted an extra bridge diode and used both transformer taps, one tap for the fan and the other for the temp controller the pump and a little fan in the cover, added a couple of caps and ended up with a bit over 14 v on each cicuit and 2 diodes.
What it does... when the spindle motor is switched on one relay switches on the water pump, the temp controller switches on the cooling fan when the heat builds up and it also holds the pump on, so the pump and fan keep running to bring the temp down regardless of the spindle motor running or not, when temp comes down the fan stops and the pump will only run when the spindle motor is switched on.
The mounting brackets, see pics. (if anyone wants more pics let me know)
The frame is made out of 22 x 1 mm shs, i had a bit of this stuff from 4 wheel motor bike crates.
Here is some pic's of it......
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17th Apr 2019, 05:06 PM #2Most Valued Member
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That's pretty damn impressive! I like the large tool holder style mount for the grinder that's really original. What do you think the total cost was in the end?
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17th Apr 2019, 07:14 PM #3
Hi Shed,
Nice set up ! That water cooled motor looks like a mean machine, I wouldn't like to get too close to that spindle when its running.
Some years ago a guy that I knew built a computer with a water cooled CPU cooler. He over clocked the hell out of it. Anyway he managed to find a refrigerated beer cooler, the type that you find under the bar. He still managed to kill the CPU by over heating.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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17th Apr 2019, 08:24 PM #4Most Valued Member
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Nice work shed. I have seen those motors on eBay, both the air cooled and water cooled versions. They rev out to 24,000 rpm! Have you been able to verify the rated TIR on the collet at all?
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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17th Apr 2019, 08:57 PM #5Most Valued Member
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- Apr 2012
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Hi Ralph, approx prices
2 x motor clamps 70
1 x hot water pump 35
1 x thermo fan 25
1 x oil cooler 60
oil hoses and fittings 180
1 x vfd 86
1 x thermo controller 16
1 x spindle motor 170
maybe 30 on electrical?
maybe 20 on some bolts, i always buy more than i need
wire mesh 5
i had all the steel but i guess there would be a few bucks there if you had to buy it.
so roughly 700 bucks.
G/day simon, yeah they hoot along, if i get a chance tomorrow i will check the run out and put my tacho on it.
cheers, shed
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18th Apr 2019, 08:20 PM #6Most Valued Member
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back to front grinding
Simon, it had about .00003" TIR (.0076mm) and looked rough as guts, not to mention the rust.
I rotated the t&cg head around to 8 deg and set about dialing in the taper.
Bell mouthed about .0008"(that would be .0016" dia), woopty do's then a lip at the end of the taper, you wouldn't have this much fun at luna park
I sorta reverse ground it, i dressed a stone and then held it in a stationary collet chuck and rubbed it in and out
the er20 bore.
I have ended up with between .00005" and .0001" TIR depending where i measure it along the taper, sweeping the
length of the bore does reveal some small ripples but i reckon it will be ok.
I reckon a smidge of run out wouldn't hurt as you have to dress the stones before grinding anyway, it would become a problem tho if it was to vibrate.
I need to get the proper stones/mounted points for a decent test run.
cheers shed
ps. i moved the stone in the chuck right in to improve the surface finish that i was getting
progress pics
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18th Apr 2019, 08:39 PM #7
Hi Shed,
Looking good now that you have redone that collet taper.
Just a comment about ER collets in general. All the collets that I have bought, without exception have had tiny bits of swarf or burrs down the inside. I've used a Stanley knife blade to clear the slots and a fine round stone to very carefully clean the inside edges of the slots. I've found that doing this improves the holding run out considerably. On the collet that I originally noticed these burrs on, the run out went from just under two thou to noise on a half thou Mercer gauge. I've obtained similar improvements on other collets. The smaller collets are much harder to clean and debur.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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18th Apr 2019, 08:50 PM #8Most Valued Member
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Thanks Baron, yeah i have some pretty dodgy collets and have been looking at buying some precision collets
for this, i will get some stones and do a bit of grinding before i lash out for them tho....
cheers, shed
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19th Apr 2019, 02:24 AM #9
Hi Shed,
I don't know whether I would trust myself grinding the collets under power ! I used a small 5 mm diameter fine, 800 grit stone on the gap between the sawn edges. I wish I had a small triangular one it would have been much easier to control.
Looking at the way they are made I would think that there would be little difference between a cheap collet properly deburred and a more expensive one ! Though one see's and hears horror stories about collets all the time.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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