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  1. #121
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Thumbs up XY Table sorted.

    Hi Guys,

    Since my last post, I've repaired my booboo with the table traverse nut and scraped the front edge of the topslide back to being square. I've taken several thou off the bottom edge and some inside the groove where the bearings run. Its back to moving smoothly and it seems that I've also improved the slight side play down to nil.

    Anyway its all back together now and the X-Y slides working exactly as it should. I've just the calibrated knobs to make. For the moment I'm using an Emco 50 mm chuck and an old radio knob to turn the lead screws. If you look carefully at the second picture, at the back to the right, is the piece of aluminium that I'm going to use for one of the knobs.

    03-10-2019-001.JPG 03-10-2019-002.jpg
    When I've done the knobs for the lead screws I want to make a start on the base for the work holder.

    More later. Thanks for looking guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Thumbs up Tool holder base !

    Hi Guys,

    I've not done anything for a little while other than collecting some bits n pieces, including a nice piece of 304 stainless steel plate 8 mm thick and 100 mm wide 500 mm long. Having not made anything using stainless steel, So I thought that I would try and use it to make the tool holder base plate for the grinder.

    I used the bandsaw to cut a piece off 6" inches long. That was surprisingly uneventful ! Normally I would have been going at it with a hacksaw or waited and gone round to the engineering shop and used theirs. I should have obtained one years ago.

    Tool Holder 1.png
    I printed out the pattern above on a sheet of paper, minus the red dimensions, and used PVA adhesive to glue it to the piece of stainless plate. After which I did a "follow the line" act on the bandsaw, then cutting the curve as a series of flats and then filing to the line, to give me the round ends. These bandsaws don't like cutting curves.

    09-11-2019-001.JPG 09-11-2019-002.jpg 09-11-2019-003.JPG

    09-11-2019-007.JPG
    The paper just rubbed off when I wet it leaving the surface clean.

    I drilled the centre hole 6 mm to clear a 6mm cap screw, chain drilled for the curved slot and filed it out. Stainless steel is hard work with a file and hard on the file as well. After breaking through a couple of bridges I used a hacksaw to clear as much of the waste as I could, filing the rest away.

    09-11-2019-004.JPG 09-11-2019-006.jpg 09-11-2019-005.jpg
    I used the plate to mark the hole positions in the "T" slot bar, then drilled two 5 mm holes and tapped them M6. These screws are the ones that will secure the tool holder base to the table. You can just see the "T" slot bar in the middle picture. I propose to put pointer in the end and stamp graduations, either on top or on the end of that plate.

    I still haven't done anything about making the pair of knobs to put on the end of the lead screws.

    That's all for now Thanks for following along !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    53
    Posts
    646

    Default

    Good work, but I reckon you're a masochist stitch drilling then cutting/filing that slot in 8mm anything (let alone stainless!!).

    Just wondering if there was reason you didn't use the mill - either with a rotary table or with the workpiece mounted at the pivot point and just clamping the slot end then plunging with an slot drill (and moving/clamping in increments to create the slot)?

    Steve

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Thanks for your post.
    Masochist, me ! No just lazy

    Seriously I'm still waiting for some replacement end mills from China. I didn't have anything smaller than 10 mm, and that one is not as sharp as it could be. Plus I have a number of 5.5 mm drills and the ability to four facet sharpen them should I blunt or break one. Anyway I was also a little bothered by the possibility of work hardening the stainless steel if I was milling it.

    In reality I did produce some chips that were starting to go blue whilst drilling, so I just swapped to another drill bit. The hardest bit of filing was the outside curve of the slot, I don't have a half round file that would go through a 6 mm slot. So I used a 6 mm round rat tail file on the outside edge of the slot and the ends, then used a 6 mm square file to clean the little bumps off. An 8" inch by 3/4" medium cut file was used on the inside curve of the slot.

    I could have put the RT on the mill and used that, but I wouldn't have risked just using a pin and guiding by hand to cut the slot !

    Anyway I wanted to have a play with my new toy ! That bandsaw is great. I didn't think about taking pictures, but being able to clamp the piece of plate down to the bandsaw bed and cut to the line made it quite easy. Filing the large curve was surprisingly easy, basically just rubbing the tops off the flats.

    I did try and cut the curve with the bandsaw arm vertical, but it became obvious that the blade didn't want to flex enough to follow the curve, plus the plate got very hot very quickly.

    All in all it took about 5 hours to cut and file. The result is very satisfying.

    Whilst I think on, how are you getting on with Qcad ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    53
    Posts
    646

    Default

    Not having suitable cutters is a pretty good reason to not use the mill
    Just to clarify, I wasn't meaning to pivot the part by hand WHILE cutting. Doing that makes me shudder!!
    Was thinking clamp, plunge cut with slot drill, unclamp, rotate slightly around the pivot, clamp, plunge - then rinse and repeat. Final cleanup with a file if required, but with small increments it might not be needed.

    Haven't done anything with QCad for a couple of weeks, but got this flange plate drawn up for a transmission adapter I'm slowly working on.
    Holes accurately located by X-Y coordinates.

    Flange Plate.JPG

    Don't want to pollute your build thread, but something I haven't worked out how to do is resize a hole (circle).
    The best I've been able to do is draw another circle of the correct size originating from the same center, then remove the original. I expected to be able to select the circle, then change its diameter property somehow but can't see a way to do that. Is that possible?

    EDIT: Out of interest, what do you use for your drill bit sharpening?

    Steve

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Yes re-drawing a circle is one way, and probably as quick a method as any other !

    Another way is to use the "Line Tools" Then move down to "Parallel with distance (LP)" then set the distance and number of times you want to repeat the line. It defaults to one, but if you set it to, say two, you will get two lines at the distance that you have set, inside or outside the original line depending which side you put the cursor on.

    Another is to choose the object then choose "Modify", "Scale (SZ)" and enter values as a percentage.

    I tend to use the first two methods.

    While I think about it, do you know that you can export your drawings as a picture or PDF file ? I don't normally use a screen cap.


    Drill Sharpening:
    Quite some time ago I built "John Moran's" Four Facet" drill sharpener from

    GadgetBuilder's MiniLathe and Little Workshop

    I did a write up on this forum, not that I can find it now, anyway there are pictures and a lot of information there, also if you Email John and ask him he will send you his drawings and notes on building it.

    At the time I built mine I was very unsure whether I had the skills to build this machine ! Anyway I did and a number of the forum members gave me much encouragement and help, for which I'm very grateful. Its one of the reasons that I try to help others and be precise with explanations. The two project threads that I have going at the moment seem to have taken a life of their own. But I do wonder if I'm starting to get a little boring.

    Coming back to this project, I'm about to start designing the tool holder, or should that be "Work Holder" using Qcad.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Thumbs up Four facet grinder !

    Hi Steve,

    I found the "Four Facet drill grinder" write up !

    https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t198...+drill+grinder
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Thumbs up More work on the tool holder.

    Hi Guys,

    Sorry for taking such a long time to get back to doing some more work on the Brooks TCG. Apart from other things getting in the way, i've not felt up to it.

    It was way back in November when I made the base plate for the tool holder. Since then I've been thinking about how the tool holder itself will fasten to the base and how to adjust and control the angle that the tool will be set at.

    One criteria is the ability to accurately repeat any angular setting. In order to achieve this I've decided to try and make a worm and wheel type of assembly, a bit like a miniature rotary table. The drawing below is an attempt to illustrate what I want to do.

    Tool Holder support 1.png

    The black outline is the proposed tool holder mounting plate. The red line is the partially toothed disc upon which the actual tool holder block sits. The green lines are the tool holder block and the tooth depth I want to achieve, which works out at 3 mm for an M8 X 1.25 pitch thread.

    The drawing, blue lines, shows two views of the threaded rod and its mounting blocks, and how it would be placed. Since there is very little depth in the screw mounting bearing blocks, I've shown a view, to the left, using M4 threaded studs that can be soldered into place and have a nut used on the underside to secure them.

    I am using a piece of 70 mm diameter, 10 mm thick hard aluminium plate for the toothed disc. The disc will be mounted on a pair of 696ZZ ball race bearings, which are 15 mm diameter. Because of the disc thickness, I'm using two bearings pressed together.

    12-01-2020-002.JPG 12-01-2020-001.JPG
    I started with a 72 mm square piece of aluminium plate. I found the centre and marked it with a centre punch. After which I drilled with a 4 mm drill followed by a 14.5 mm blacksmiths drill. Finally reaming out to 15 mm - 2 thou. The picture shows the two bearings that I am using. they are NTK 696ZZ ones made in Taiwan. 10 for 3 inc delivery from Banggood.

    The second picture shows the bearings dropped in place. They are a good finger press in place and I had to use a hot air gun to allow them to fall out.

    12-01-2020-004.JPG 12-01-2020-003.JPG
    I then turned up a steel mandrel on the lathe, drilled it to take an M6 cap screw, turning it down so that the aluminium piece was a good fit, before fastening it ready for turning to 70 mm diameter.

    12-01-2020-005.JPG 12-01-2020-006.JPG 12-01-2020-007.JPG
    These three pictures are after turning the square piece into a disc and refitting the bearings.

    This is as far as I've got for now ! I need to make a fixture to support the disc on the lathe whilst hobbing the teeth into it. I've calculated that I need a minimum 35 mm length of teeth to allow a +- 15 degrees of adjustment.

    I'll come back when I've made the fixture to cut the teeth.

    Thanks Guys for your support.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    55
    Posts
    5,441

    Default

    John, I just posted in Steve's thread on his bandsaw a small post about worm wheels -
    https://metalworkforums.com/f303/t20...03#post1961603

    While a worm can be cut with a tap as you are proposing (I've seen pictures of it done with telescope drives), the teeth will not be all that big and at a 60 degree pressure angle, I would be concerned that there would be a tendancy for the teeth to try to cam out of the slots.

    Entirely your call, but there are a couple of ways of making wormgears that I think will do the the job better. Let me know if you want a better explanation.

    Michael

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Thumbs up Thoughts on a Worm & Wheel.

    Hi Michael,

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    John, I just posted in Steve's thread on his bandsaw a small post about worm wheels -
    https://metalworkforums.com/f303/t20...03#post1961603
    Thanks

    While a worm can be cut with a tap as you are proposing (I've seen pictures of it done with telescope drives), the teeth will not be all that big and at a 60 degree pressure angle, I would be concerned that there would be a tendency for the teeth to try to cam out of the slots.

    Entirely your call, but there are a couple of ways of making wormgears that I think will do the the job better. Let me know if you want a better explanation.

    Michael
    Thanks for your post ! I am all ears. I've never cut any gears. I've either purchased them or salvaged gears from other things that used them. So this would be my first attempt to actually make any. In that context I'll take any help or advice that I can get.

    First let me try and describe my idea. Since I only want to cut teeth on a segment of the disc, I was thinking about using an M8 X 1.25 pitch tap as a hob, using the lathe spindle to turn the tap and mounting the disc on the cross slide. Marking the disc with the start and finish points for the length of teeth that I want to cut. Then using the cross slide to adjust the depth of cut. If necessary stopping and going back to the beginning to cut the teeth deeper. The use of an M8 tap was simply because I could then use a length of threaded rod as the worm. Also because the disc will have very little loading applied to it, it shouldn't take much force to turn it.

    Thanks in advance for your kind offer.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #131
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Default Lathe fixture.

    Hi Guys,

    I've started to make a suitable fixture for the lathe that will fit onto the cross slide and support the aluminium disc that I have made.

    I've had to swap the 4" inch three jaw chuck for my new 5" inch one in order to hold the piece of cast iron bar that I had. The bar was almost the right size for the centre hight of my lathe which is 2.125" inches or 53.975 mm. After facing off both sides and setting the length 5 mm shorter, to allow for half the disc thickness, its now 48.975 mm long.

    I've yet to drill a hole right through the middle and thread one side to fit a "T" nut so that I can clamp it to the cross slide and drill and thread the other side M5 for a sleeve to go through the bearings in the disc so that I can secure the disc and still allow it to turn freely.

    13-01-2020=004.jpg 13-01-2020=006.jpg
    My new 5" inch chuck. Its very heavy compared to the four inch PB one, and it hangs forward a lot more. Still I only bought it to hold larger diameter Items than I could with the smaller one. I really ought to have bought a narrow body one with the threaded back. That back plate adds an inch onto its overall length.

    13-01-2020=005.JPG
    The finished faced off workpiece. I just need to drill and thread it.

    Thanks guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #132
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,312

    Default

    Amazing how we manage to make a tool to help make another tool to make a part!!!
    Still, I think that's half the fun of it all.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    Hi Kryn,

    Yes I agree ! Since I took up this hobby all I seem to do is make tools.
    But you are right, it is fun ! But don't forget the journey, the education is just as important as is the final product.
    When I stop learning it will be time to nail the lid on the box.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #134
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,119

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Moving on with the lathe fixture.

    15-01-2020-008.JPG
    I drilled a hole right through the cast Iron with a 3.8 mm drill and threaded it 3/16" BSW for about 3/4" of an inch, before turning it round and drilling the other side with a 7 mm drill and threading M8 for 1/2" inch deep.

    15-01-2020-003.jpg
    In the meantime I made a 60 mm long "T" nut to suit the lathe cross slide "T" slots. Then drilled and tapped it M8 in the middle. I also made a 3/4" inch long M8 threaded stud to screw into the cast iron and the "T" nut.
    15-01-2020-005.JPG 15-01-2020-006.JPG 15-01-2020-007.JPG
    The idea is that the cast iron piece will screw down onto the lathe cross slide and can be secured using the "T" nut.

    I've yet to make a 3/16" BSW screw and also a 6 mm diameter sleeve to go through the bearings and support the aluminium disc ready for hobbing. The idea is to allow the disc to turn freely whilst being hobbed by the rotating tap. I've also bought a new spiral M8 tap to use as the hob on the basis that it might cut better than a normal hand tap.

    More later ! Thanks guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #135
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    729

    Default Another sneaky way to make partial worm gear

    See attached file. Shows an interesting variation on the "use a tap to make a worm gear" idea. Possible to cut the curved recess by using a milling machine or a form tool on lathe..
    Attached Images Attached Images

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