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  1. #106
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    1,277

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    G/day John, your drawings are very good.

    I still use a pencil and ruler to draw my bits and pieces, I think next time my back goes out and I am marooned in a chair
    I should have another crack at a drawing program.

    cheers, shed

  2. #107
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

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    Hi John,

    Thanks for your post.

    My personal recommendation for a draughting program would be "Qcad" primarily because its the one that I use. It runs on Linux, which is operating system that I use, also Windows and I believe Mac.

    Basically its free ! Actually it has a 15 minute time period, after which it goes into a reduced function mode, but you can just save and restart to use all the functionality again. Most of which get little use. One of the functions I find most useful is its ability to save your drawing in a load of different image formats. It reads and writes DXF as well as DRW.

    I've used dozens of 2D cad programs and this one for me is the very best. A perpetual licence costs 30 here and is well worth every penny.

    It initially looks daunting but is very logical, plus you can click the help button or always ask me.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #108
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

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    Hi John, Guys,

    I should have included this link to Ribbonsoft's Qcad.

    https://www.ribbonsoft.com/en/

    A little bit down the page is a link to the download page. Just choose which operating system you have and download the one you want. For people with CNC there is a version that outputs "G" code as well. I've never used that version.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    53
    Posts
    426

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    Won't hijack your build, but just a quick note to say thanks for the QCad recommendation.
    Checked it out and it felt reasonably intuitive so I bit the bullet a couple of nights ago and bought a license bundled with the "QCad Introduction to CAD" e-book.

    My previous attempts at CAD have been a case of - I need to draw this so I'll try to do it using a CAD program -followed by the inevitable frustration and tossing it over my shoulder.
    Have decided to give it a decent crack and see if I can break through that point where you give up because its quicker/easier to draw it by hand. Trying to spend at least half an hour an evening working through the concepts and exercises in the e-book and see where it ends up. Only up to chapter 6 so far, but it feels like its sinking in, so fingers crossed

    Steve

  5. #110
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

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    Hi Steve,

    I'm pleased that you have obtained a copy of Qcad, ! It is like anything else it takes a little while to get into it.
    I've done many drawings using it. I also use the print feature to produce a working copy of things that I'm making, and of course to post on the forum.

    I must confess that I didn't buy the book, however I do use the help file now and again, usually to remind me about little used commands.

    If I can help in any way please don't hesitate to ask me.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

    Thumbs up Topslide machining.

    Hi Guys,

    I've machined the topslide to create a channel for the leadscrew assembly to run in. Its a simple 10 by 10 mm slot the full length of the topslide. The actual slot width is not at all critical as is the depth, since I intend to use an M8 threaded bar for the leadscrew and support it at either end in brass bearings. They will of course have to be fitted to suit the slot.

    01-09-2019-001.jpg 09-09-2019-013.jpg 01-09-2019-002.jpg
    I machined the slot in two 5 mm deep passes. That last picture was taken after the first pass. The piece of square tool steel was to make sure that the chuck cleared the edge of the machine vise.

    I've now to drill the holes to fasten the leadscrew supports and make them.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #112
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

    Thumbs up More top slide work.

    Hi Guys,

    Many thanks to those forum members that are still with me on this project !

    After the motor problems with the mill, things got a bit out of shape. Anyway I've managed to finish the slot in the bottom of the topslide, drilled the holes for the leadscrew support bearings.

    I've actually cut the slot to 12 mm wide because of the rough surface finish caused by a damaged cutter Its still 10.25 mm deep, just a little wider than drawn.

    12-09-2019-001.jpg
    In order to ensure that I had the holes exactly in the centre of the slot, I made a gauge pin that fitted the pilot holes

    12-09-2019-003.jpg 12-09-2019-002.JPG
    The idea being that I could use feeler gauges to determine the gap between the sides and the gauge pin and then I would know how far off the centre line I was and I could take another cut off one side or the other if needed.

    12-09-2019-005.JPG 12-09-2019-004.JPG
    As it happens, whilst I could just see light from one side, I couldn't slide a 1 thou feeler gauge between the gauge and slot wall. The other end was such that I couldn't see any light getting between them at all.

    After I drilled and reamed the two holes in the ends of the topslide to 8 mm and then deburred them.

    12-09-2019-006.jpg
    I picked up a couple of pieces of scrap brass bar from the scrapyard. The thicker piece is only just long enough to get both ends out of. Its 42 mm long. I propose to turn each end down to 8 mm for a distance of ten mm. Drill right through 4.2 mm and tap the hole M5 from both ends, and then part the piece in half.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #113
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

    Thumbs up Brass bearings.

    Hi Guys,

    I've now turned some brass bits to make the bearings for the top slide lead screw supports.

    13-09-2019001.jpg 13-09-2019002.jpg 13-09-2019003.jpg
    In this first picture they have been placed in the holes intended for them. They need flats machining on them so that they will fit into the channel in the top slide. There are supposed to be three bearing support bushes, but I need to get another piece of brass bar to make what will become the nut that the leadscrew runs in and uses to pull the top slide back and forth.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #114
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

    Thumbs up Leadscew support bearings.

    Hi Guys,

    After sorting out the difficulties with machining the sides of the bearings that fit into the channel that I've machined in the bottom of the TCG top slide, I'm now ready to make the leadscrew. So that will be the next job.

    14-09-2019=011.jpg
    This is a family picture of all the current parts for the leadscrew, which has yet to have the ends machined to fit the bearings. Also a nut has yet to be made that runs on the leadscrew and drives the table.

    13-09-2019008.jpg 13-09-2019007.jpg
    This is one of the bearings showing how it would be placed when the leadscrew is fitted. The bearing in this picture is the one that I turned off the body, to make a 8 mm X 20 mm long support for holding the rather short stub in an 8 mm collet to prevent it slipping.

    14-09-2019=007.JPG 14-09-2019=012.JPG
    This first picture is one of the bearings before having the hole for the end of the leadscrew drilled in it. The other is the finished bearings complete with the M6 Allen hex countersunk screws.

    14-09-2019=004.JPG 14-09-2019=010.JPG
    You will notice that they have had 2 mm diameter holes drilled through them. This is so lubrication can easily be provided to the bearings at each end. Hopefully the lubrication will find its way onto the leadscrew as well.
    As you can see, I just used an M6 threading die gripped in the drill vise to support the screw whilst drilling.

    14-09-2019=008.JPG 14-09-2019=009.jpg
    The holes in each end of the top slide were countersunk to take the screw heads. The hex socket providing a small oil well for the lubricating oil.

    My thanks to all, especially those nice people who helped me with advice and support with getting my bearing machining problem sorted out.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #115
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    60
    Posts
    3,107

    Default

    Still watching and still loving this thread John. I'm also getting some great tips and tricks I can use.
    Keep up the great work.

    Phil

  11. #116
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Hi John, that T nut material must have been stress relieved, you were lucky you didn't end up with a banana.

    cheers, shed
    Hi John,

    Well you might not think that the length of bright rolled bar that I used for the top slide would move

    Well it has, the top of the slot has opened out around 1.5 thou along the whole length of the bar ! I can no longer get it to fit into the saddle. I must admit that I became suspicious when I came to fit the brass bearings. They fitted perfectly at the top of the slot and I had to file them slightly to get them to drop to the bottom of the slot.

    I wish I had a horizontal grinder ! I don't think that trying to machine a thou or so off one edge is going to be easy. Ah well, you can't win them all.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #117
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    695

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi John,



    I wish I had a horizontal grinder ! I don't think that trying to machine a thou or so off one edge is going to be easy. Ah well, you can't win them all.
    Would it be possible to mount a dremel grinding point or wrap some emery paper around a rod in the lathe chuck and with the workpece mounted on an angle plate slowly wind the workpiece past the tool ?

    I havent got a clue if that would work or not but it may spark other thoughts.

    Bill

  13. #118
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

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    Hi Bill,

    Thanks for your suggestion !

    This is a difficult one. I need to get not only the top edge of the outside reduced but inside the top edge of the slot where the bearings run. There isn't a lot to play with there.

    I've spent hours fitting the top slide so there was minimal side and end play on there.

    I suppose that I can blame poor planning ! In hindsight I could have machined the "T" slot and the leadscrew channel first and then cut the slots in the sides for the support bearings to run in. Taking an original design and stamping your own concept on it is not as easy as I thought !

    I think grinding would be the way to go. I suspect that I'm going to have to start scraping to get the slot clearances back. I need to think about this some more.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #119
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,682

    Thumbs up Fitting the brass bearings !

    Hi Guys,

    Among other things I've spent some time fitting the brass bearings for the leadscrew and turning the leadscrew ends to size. I just need to make a knob to turn the leadscrew and finish refitting the topslide so that it moves smoothly without binding. I've also found a small lump of bronze that I'm going to use to make the nut that the leadscrew uses to move the topslide.

    17-09-2019-01.jpg 17-09-2019-03.JPG 17-09-2019-02.jpg
    These two pictures shown from underneath the completed topslide with the leadscrew fitted into its bearings. The third one is a view from the top showing the fixing screws securing those bearings.

    17-09-2019-04.jpg 17-09-2019-05.jpg
    These last two pictures are just family ones of the finished bits that were used.

    Top Slide 3b .png
    This drawing is that of the brass bearings.

    That is all so far, I've been spending a great deal of my time making the stand for the 6X4 bandsaw. I hope to get it finished and ready for painting by the weekend.

    Thanks guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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