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  1. #436
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Default Pinned gear wheel !

    Hi J&H, Guys,

    Yes I cross drilled the support shaft and used a loose pin to stop the gear from turning without turning the shaft as well.
    23-04-2021-003.jpg 23-04-2021-005.jpg 23-04-2021-004.JPG

    So that solved that issue ! Also because the gear is made from Nylon, it doesn't bind on the flat surface when indexing. Its firm but not tight.

    So thanks for that Idea !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #437
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Thumbs up "Y" Dial finished !

    Hi Guys,

    I've finished the calibrated dial and handle. I decided that it would be easier to simply drill and tap holes for grub screws. There are three of them at 120 degrees apart.

    27-04-2021-004.jpg

    This picture shows how I drilled the holes using a "V" block and a backstop held with a pair of spring clamps. I also used this setup to start the 10X32 tap dead square into the 4 mm diameter holes that I drilled.

    02-05-2021-002.jpg 02-05-2021-001.jpg

    These are just a couple of pictures showing it fitted to the "Y" leadscrew. I've just a couple of things to do before I fit this dial in place ready for use. I want to shorten the leadscrew so that it doesn't stick out and also to put a reference line on the top of the TCG front plate.

    Each of those lines represents 1 Thou of "Y" movement, a full turn being 1 mm. With a clock clamped to the front plate there is no measurable backlash which I'm very pleased about. Though I would like to make a plastic leadscrew nut in a more conventional way. The leadscrew is still quite tight, whilst the handle makes turning it less of a chore.

    Just the other "X" dial to make and fit.

    More later ! Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #438
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Default "X" Dial made !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now cut another slice of 50 mm diameter aluminium bar for the second calibrated dial handle to go on the end of the "X" leadscrew. I used the stamping jig that I made specifically to do this job.

    07-05-2021-004.JPG 07-05-2021-006.JPG 07-05-2021-005.JPG

    The index marks were made using one of the Pryor stamps. You can see that I used a paper template glued to a piece of 5 mm plywood. I also used a piece of 3 mm plastic rod fitted into the hole that I drilled for the dial handle and in the wooden disc so that the two were locked together and would be forced rotate together. Then I just rotated the dial knob by hand to each index mark on the paper template matched to a scratch mark on the alloy support plate. The purple sleeve is just a spacer with an M4 cap screw in the end of the shaft to apply a little pressure.

    07-05-2021-008.jpg 07-05-2021-009.JPG 07-05-2021-007.JPG

    I then changed the stamp guide for the 6 mm one and using the 3 mm stamps did the numbers in steps of five around the dial. The red marker on the stamp is to make sure that it is the right way round. I discovered that the stamps are not symmetrical, so some of the zeros are offset because of that.

    At this point in time the grinder is quite usable and I have already used it with the new 120 grit wheel to grind a 16 mm four flute end mill and a 5/8" slot drill. I've a 12 mm slot drill to sharpen. Time for another play with this machine.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #439
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Thumbs up Slot drill sharpening !

    Hi Guys,

    I'm about to have a go at sharpening a couple of badly damaged slot drills !

    26-03-2021-001.JPG

    This was the first attempt at grinding a four flute end mill. I've since used this twice with some success. So I thought that I would attempt to regrind these two slot drills that I salvaged from the scrap box. They both had part of the ends of one flute broken off.

    02-05-2021-003.JPG 02-05-2021-005.JPG

    Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures before I cut the damaged ends off these two 12 mm and 5/8" slot drills with a cutting disc held in a Dremal tool held in the toolpost. These have had about 6 or 7 mm cut off the end whilst held in the lathe three jaw chuck.

    I will take some pictures of the setup as I go on.

    Thanks for looking Guys:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #440
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Thumbs up Second Dial Finished !

    Hi Guys,

    Just to round off making all the knobs and dials, I've just finished the "X" table dial and markings.

    21-05-2021-001.JPG 21-05-2021-002.JPG

    This is the last of the knobs and dials to be made. The calibrations have been put on it using the stamping jig that I made for this purpose. In the pictures the dial is resting on a nail to stop it rolling off the bench. I still have to make a suitable handle for it. I don't like the one that I made for the other dial. The one that I made for the height adjustment is much nicer. So I will make a pair like that one.

    21-05-2021-003.JPG 21-05-2021-004.jpg

    A picture of the dial fitted to the "X" slide and a general photograph of the grinder from the side.

    Now to start and grind some tooling !

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #441
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Default Dial Handle drawing !

    Hi Guys,

    I've done a drawing for the dial handles !

    Dial Handle.png

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #442
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Thumbs up Pictures of the Dial handles !

    Hi Guys,

    Following the drawing in the previous post, here are pictures of the finished items.

    23-05-2021-001.JPG 23-05-2021-003.JPG 23-05-2021-004.JPG

    First the two screws used to support the aluminium sleeves. I've knurled these with a fine diamond pattern knurl. A little easier on the fingers that a course one.

    23-05-2021-002.JPG

    And a picture of one installed on the "X" slide dial.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #443
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    1,757

    Default

    Hi John, some pics of your completed work of art would be nice

  9. #444
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    343

    Default

    How is that grinder going? are we going to see photos of cutters that have been resurrected from the dead.

  10. #445
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Sorry about the delay, things have ganged up on me recently, and I'm struggling a bit with one good eye and one with a cataract that hopefully be removed next Wednesday.

    But yes I will post pictures of both the machine and the resurrected slot drills very soon !

    So thanks for putting up with me.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #446
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Thumbs up Brooks TCG Pictures !

    Hi Guys,

    As promised some pictures of the completed modified Brooks tool & cutter grinder ! There are some things that I would do differently, but in general it will do most of what I need.

    Warning, there are a lot of pictures here... Enjoy

    04-06-2021-001.JPG 04-06-2021-002.JPG

    04-06-2021-003.jpg 04-06-2021-004.jpg

    These pictures are general views of the machine from different sides.

    04-06-2021-006.jpg 04-06-2021-005.jpg

    Close up view of the tool holder for milling cutters and drills, in fact any tooling that has a round shank. I haven't made a holder for square or oblong lathe tools. Maybe later, since one of the original goals for building this was to make single point threading tools for the lathe. Since having discovered threading inserts I've not bothered attempting to grind any.

    04-06-2021-007.jpg 04-06-2021-008.JPG

    One of the things that I discovered was the need to be able to set a positive stop. Some cutters are intended to be centre cutting and as a result the cutting edges are of different lengths, so a stop is needed to prevent crashing into the longer edge and damaging it. This stop simply slides into the "T" slot and is held by a single M4 cap screw, the long M6 screw underneath sets the stop position and is locked by the nut on the outside.

    04-06-2021-009.jpg 04-06-2021-011.jpg

    The motor is a single capacitor, start and run one, with the capacitor between the two motor windings. Switching the supply between the ends of the capacitor reverses the motor direction.

    04-06-2021-010.JPG

    This is the lift mechanism for the wheel head. The whole motor, spindle cartridge and grinding wheel height is set using this lead screw. Note it is the only un-calibrated knob on the machine.

    If anyone wants a specific picture taking just ask.

    Thanks Guys your attention is appreciated.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #447
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    66
    Posts
    256

    Default T & C grinder

    Hello to all.
    My preference is for V belt drive and not a lot of tension. You are bound to have a few crashes as you get used to the process and a slipping belt has saved my nose a few times. When you change from a 1/2" cutter to grinding a 1 3/4" item the grinding force can pull the work away from the indexing finger if your not paying attention. This increases the depth of cut and it gets worse. A stalled wheel saves a disaster and throw it away.
    Regards
    BC

  13. #448
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steamloco1954 View Post
    Hello to all.
    My preference is for V belt drive and not a lot of tension. You are bound to have a few crashes as you get used to the process and a slipping belt has saved my nose a few times. When you change from a 1/2" cutter to grinding a 1 3/4" item the grinding force can pull the work away from the indexing finger if your not paying attention. This increases the depth of cut and it gets worse. A stalled wheel saves a disaster and throw it away.
    Regards
    BC
    Hi BC,

    Thank you for your post.

    I agree with you ! I used a toothed belt simply because I could get the belts and pulleys locally at a reasonable price, however the 190 Watt Parvalux motor doesn't have enough torque to do any heavy grinding. Its great for small tools but stalls easily.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #449
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,773

    Thumbs up 1st attemp at a slot drill !

    Hi Guys,

    I've just been having a try at grinding one of the two slot drills that I cut the damaged ends off ! I've shown it in the first picture. I've simply used a Dremal and cutting disc to remove the broken end. The cutter is now about 8 mm shorter than it was.

    02-05-2021-005.JPG 06-06-2021-001.JPG 06-06-2021-002.JPG

    Whilst the finger did allow me to initially set the grinding angle using the cutter flutes, I found that it was very difficult to re-establish the same position in order to make a second grinding to take another cut. The finger simply wasn't rigid enough. In addition it caught on the side of the wheel forcing it out of position. Not good for getting the flutes equal lengths.

    06-06-2021-003.jpg 06-06-2021-004.jpg

    Previously I had made this collar that fitted on the tail end of the collet holder shaft in order to micro adjust the amount of cut. In practice I found that the zero backlash on the "Y" slide was quite able to make fine enough adjustments of cut, so I pressed it into service as an index ring by drilling four holes at 90 degrees to each other.

    The next step is to make a peg that will fit into the holes and give me a positive step for two or four flute cutters. I also intend to replace the thumb screw with a Allen hex grub screw so that the collar can be locked onto the collet shaft.

    I'll post pictures of the modifications as I do them, so at this moment in time any helpful suggestions appreciated.

    Thanks for looking !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #450
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    66
    Posts
    256

    Default Endmill grinding

    Hello from the old goat.
    For a quick start you can gash the end with a 1.6mm cut off wheel in an angle grinder. Hold the grinder to give about 5 deg rake angle. After this the clearance grinding is easy.
    Regards
    BC

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