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  1. #436
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,666

    Default Pinned gear wheel !

    Hi J&H, Guys,

    Yes I cross drilled the support shaft and used a loose pin to stop the gear from turning without turning the shaft as well.
    23-04-2021-003.jpg 23-04-2021-005.jpg 23-04-2021-004.JPG

    So that solved that issue ! Also because the gear is made from Nylon, it doesn't bind on the flat surface when indexing. Its firm but not tight.

    So thanks for that Idea !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #437
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,666

    Thumbs up "Y" Dial finished !

    Hi Guys,

    I've finished the calibrated dial and handle. I decided that it would be easier to simply drill and tap holes for grub screws. There are three of them at 120 degrees apart.

    27-04-2021-004.jpg

    This picture shows how I drilled the holes using a "V" block and a backstop held with a pair of spring clamps. I also used this setup to start the 10X32 tap dead square into the 4 mm diameter holes that I drilled.

    02-05-2021-002.jpg 02-05-2021-001.jpg

    These are just a couple of pictures showing it fitted to the "Y" leadscrew. I've just a couple of things to do before I fit this dial in place ready for use. I want to shorten the leadscrew so that it doesn't stick out and also to put a reference line on the top of the TCG front plate.

    Each of those lines represents 1 Thou of "Y" movement, a full turn being 1 mm. With a clock clamped to the front plate there is no measurable backlash which I'm very pleased about. Though I would like to make a plastic leadscrew nut in a more conventional way. The leadscrew is still quite tight, whilst the handle makes turning it less of a chore.

    Just the other "X" dial to make and fit.

    More later ! Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #438
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,666

    Default "X" Dial made !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now cut another slice of 50 mm diameter aluminium bar for the second calibrated dial handle to go on the end of the "X" leadscrew. I used the stamping jig that I made specifically to do this job.

    07-05-2021-004.JPG 07-05-2021-006.JPG 07-05-2021-005.JPG

    The index marks were made using one of the Pryor stamps. You can see that I used a paper template glued to a piece of 5 mm plywood. I also used a piece of 3 mm plastic rod fitted into the hole that I drilled for the dial handle and in the wooden disc so that the two were locked together and would be forced rotate together. Then I just rotated the dial knob by hand to each index mark on the paper template matched to a scratch mark on the alloy support plate. The purple sleeve is just a spacer with an M4 cap screw in the end of the shaft to apply a little pressure.

    07-05-2021-008.jpg 07-05-2021-009.JPG 07-05-2021-007.JPG

    I then changed the stamp guide for the 6 mm one and using the 3 mm stamps did the numbers in steps of five around the dial. The red marker on the stamp is to make sure that it is the right way round. I discovered that the stamps are not symmetrical, so some of the zeros are offset because of that.

    At this point in time the grinder is quite usable and I have already used it with the new 120 grit wheel to grind a 16 mm four flute end mill and a 5/8" slot drill. I've a 12 mm slot drill to sharpen. Time for another play with this machine.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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