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  1. #421
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi BC, Guys.

    Thanks for that info, for a wheel I didn't know that I had, it ground the 16 mm cutter faces quite well ! It also showed me that there are a number of things that need attention, one of them in the next post. The new wheel that I ordered last week was posted out to me on Friday and must still be in the post. It was expected Monday if I was lucky, but more likely Tuesday, so I still can't show a picture of it.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #422
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Index ring !

    Hi Guys,

    Thank you for your support, I had let this project slide a little !

    Anyway a few posts back I made an alloy ring to fit over the collet shaft, but didn't finish it.

    02-01-2021-003.jpg 02-01-2021-002.JPG 02-01-2021-001.jpg

    These are pictures of the alloy ring showing how it is intended to fit. At this point I hadn't made any fittings for it.

    24-03-2021-003.JPG 24-03-2021-004.JPG

    I made a thumbscrew from an existing bit of scrap that had an M4 thread on it, to use as the clamp screw for the ring.

    24-03-2021-001.JPG 24-03-2021-002.JPG

    I also made a long thumb screw to act as a very fine feed and stop screw using a spring to tension it. Unfortunately I didn't take into account that the head of the screw would catch the end of the collet holder and thus it wasn't long enough. I had some brass pillars so I drilled and threaded one M4 to suit the thread on the screw. I used a lock nut to stop it coming off. In the second of these two pictures you can see how it is assembled.

    24-03-2021-005.jpg

    This last picture shows the ring assembly on the collet shaft. The locking thumbscrew only just clears the angle adjustment knob and the distance stop now clears the end of the collet.

    If I was making this again I would remove the piece of the back plate behind the end of the collet holder to give more room for my fingers and make the distance stop screw 10 mm longer.

    One issue that I really need to address is a wheel guard. A very small chip came out of the edge of the wheel and bounced off the table. I also need to make an index finger of some kind to ensure that the cutter always ends up in the right position rotationally. I did my 16 mm four flute one by eye and used the outer edge of the wheel. I also angled the collet down from horizontal to -1.5 degrees after setting the centre of the wheel level with the centre line of the milling cutter, and angled the cutter to give me about half a degree of dishing.

    I forgot to take a picture of the end of the cutter, but I'll do that later. it looks OK.

    Thanks Guys:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #423
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    69
    Posts
    452

    Default grinding expert

    Hello again.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxmHkfs5bDo

    This link goes to a well experienced tool room grinder in action. In all his videos he talks about tenths and means it.
    Regards
    BC

  4. #424
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Standoffs !

    Hi Guys,

    One of the things that I did was sharpen a 16 mm milling cutter, by eye I must add.

    26-03-2021-001.JPG

    This is the sharp end of the 16 mm four flute cutter. I've since used it to square up some 15 mm thick steel plate. I'm surprised at how well it now cuts, even though those edges look horrible. Once I've made and got the finger guide and stop rods done I'll try again with the two flute slot drill.

    One of the things that I need to make is a finger guide so that the cutter flutes can be accurately set. So this morning I located a piece of 1/2" inch brass rod and made a couple of stand off's to hold a length of 5 mm diameter silver steel rod.

    26-03-2021-003.jpg 26-03-2021-002.jpg

    These two picture show how I used my finger plate to cross drill a 5 mm diameter hole through the stand off's. I piloted a hole through the stand off with a 2.5 mm drill first and then moved the clamp to drill through 5 mm. You can see the 2.5 mm guide hole in the end of the clamp. The brown piece simply clamps the stop rod.

    26-03-2021-005.JPG 26-03-2021-006.JPG 26-03-2021-004.JPG

    I turned one end down to 6 mm and threaded it M6 for a distance of 6 mm. I confess that I used a die to do the threading, using a lathe handle it only took a few seconds. Far quicker than setting up for single pointing. I did the undercut with the parting blade.

    I'll post some more pictures as I progress.

    Thanks Guys:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #425
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default Thumbscrews !

    Hi Guys,

    Some more progress this morning ! I've made some thumbscrews and done a bit of knurling !

    27-03-2021-004.jpg 27-03-2021-005.JPG

    Yesterday I made this pair of stand off pillars to screw into the collet holder. There was already a pair of 4 mm holes drilled in it, so I set it up on the drill press, holding the collet holder in the drill vise and opened the holes out to 5 mm and then threaded them M6. This allowed the pillars to screw directly into the collet holder. I ended up having to turn 1 mm off the end of the thumb screws so that they didn't foul the collet chuck shaft.

    I also had to scrape the burr off just inside the collet holder where the tap had come through on the inside so that the collet chuck shaft would pass through and rotate cleanly, as can be seen in the second picture.

    27-03-2021-003.JPG

    Seeing as I needed to make a couple of thumbscrews, and I wanted a knurled head on them. The thumbscrews are turned from 1/2" inch brass rod and are 15 mm in length with 10 mm of M6 thread. The heads, like the pillars were skimmed down to 12 mm diameter and then knurled.

    27-03-2021-006.JPG 27-03-2021-007.JPG

    I also made this hex key thumbscrew. Since you cannot get an Allen key in past the wheel this is a good solution. It is made from an 8 mm thick, 30 mm diameter piece of scrap EN1 from when I was making the grinding spindle body. I just drilled it 4.8 mm to suit the cut off piece of Allen key and pressed it into the hole using JB weld as a filler. I knurled it afterwards giving it a some time and a bit of heat to set.

    27-03-2021-009.JPG 27-03-2021-008.jpg

    The pictures above show how the Allen thumbscrew fits into the hole in the side of the height adjusting block. The hex key fits in the M6 cap screw head in the split collet used to lock the block to the shaft. I'm tempted to use a dab of Locktite to secure it into the cap head screw so that it cannot come loose.

    27-03-2021-001.jpg 27-03-2021-002.jpg

    This is the assembled collet holder and the 5 mm diameter finger support rod. You can see that it clears the collet lock screw nicely. The pillars needed just over 10 thou taking off the bottom so that when tightened up the through hole lined up allowing the support rod to slide through without binding. There is only about three threads holding them.

    I now need to make a suitable setting finger to mount on the rod end. So that is the next job. After re-assembling the tool mounting.

    Thanks Guys: Your support is appreciated !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #426
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up New Grinding Wheel !

    Hi Guys,

    the new grinding wheel that I ordered on the 15/03/2021 that should have been delivered on Monday or Tuesday last week, turned up this morning. It was dispatched on Friday 19/03/2021 by first class post. The local post office must have been sitting on it for a week. Fortunately it was well packed because the box, about a foot cube was badly crushed on one corner. The delivery postman knocked on the door, placed the box on the step and stood back a yard or so and apologised for the damage, telling me to report it as damaged and said he would record it.

    Anyway everything is fine !

    29-03-2021-001.jpg 29-03-2021-002.jpg

    Nice wheel, with a hard plastic insert pushed in from one side so it only fits halfway through. One thing that I do like the blotters are soft plastic and fit right up to the bore edge.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #427
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up "X" Table stop !

    Hi Guys,

    One of the things that I found difficult to control was the repeatability of stopping the "X" table in the same position every time. When I sharpened the four flute cutter, with it being centre cutting, was avoiding catching the opposite tooth.

    So I made an adjustable stop that fits into either end of the "X" table with an adjustable M6 stop screw and lock nut.

    I found a suitable piece of scrap in the bin to use. Originally some that I had welded a couple of pieces of flat bar into a length of 10 mm thick some bar, so it made a nice "T" shape. I cut the excess material off on the bandsaw leaving me with a 30 mm wide "T" shape. One end of that I milled down to 18 mm wide. I then milled a 5 mm wide groove 5 mm deep, down each side to leave me with an inverted "T" shape that fitted nicely into the "T" slot on the "X" table ends. I added an M4 cap screw so that I could secure it in the "T" slot.

    01-04-2021-001.JPG

    This picture gives you the idea. At this point I hadn't cut the excess material off the stuck out end.

    01-04-2021-002.JPG

    This is an "end on" view of the inverted "T" nut with the M4 cap screw, looking down the length. I milled just over 1.5 mm off the back of the "T" so that it would easily go into the table "T" slot. A slight adjustment with a file finished it to size.

    01-04-2021-003.JPG

    I drilled 5 mm and threaded this hole M6 for a short length of M6 threaded bar and lock nut.

    01-04-2021-006.jpg 01-04-2021-005.JPG 01-04-2021-004.jpg

    These last three pictures show the finished stop. In use the stop is put into one end or the other of the table "T" slot and the M4 cap screw used to prevent movement. The table position is set and then the M6 screw is set against the side of the "Y" slide and the lock nut used to prevent the stop screw moving. You can also see in these pictures the two pieces of material that were welded in the original piece of scrap.

    I've since sharpened a 5/8" slot drill with this TCG using this stop ! It does what it was intended to do.

    Thanks Guys, for looking and following on !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #428
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Wheel hub insert !

    Hi Guys,

    Not done too much ! Today I made a new plastic hub for the new 100 mm X 10 mm X 32 mm 120 grit grinding wheel I obtained. I also made a pair of large aluminium side plates, all to fit the 12 mm diameter grinding spindle shaft.

    04-04-2021-001.JPG

    This is the new grinding wheel !

    04-04-2021-002.JPG

    This is the Nylon 60 hub that I turned to fit into the grinding wheel ! I used a piece of 12 mm diameter precision ground bar to support it while photographing it. It is 31.75 mm in diameter and 9.5 mm thick. A nice push fit into the wheel centre.

    04-04-2021-003.JPG

    These are the two pieces of 3 mm plate turned and bored to suit. They are 48 mm diameter, cut out of 50 mm squares of alloy plate.

    04-04-2021-004.jpg

    This picture shows how they all go together.

    I'm now going to start on one of the dial wheels !

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #429
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Turned another Dial !

    Hi Guys,

    I turned another piece of aluminium bar in order to make a calibrated dial with a handle on it to fit "Y" leadscrew on the grinder.

    14-04-2021-001.JPG 14-04-2021-002.JPG

    I intend to calibrate this dial knob with 40 divisions using the dial stamping tool that I'm building. I'm doing a WIP in this thread:

    https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t206...raduating-tool

    14-04-2021-009.JPG 14-04-2021-008.JPG

    These pictures show the general idea.

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #430
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default Test Graduating !

    Hi Guys,

    I got the graduating tool made and did a test stamping ! There are one or two things that need sorting out but it does what I want, almost, . I initially used a paper template to index the alloy blank, unfortunately the paper template came off when I removed the blank, loosing my original index. I was going to use a change wheel from the lathe but discovered that it was too large in diameter to fit.

    20-04-2021-005.jpg

    The problem is the way I've used spacers behind the dial blank, the blank has to be removed so that a spacer can be removed the blank replaced so that it is repositioned further back ready for numbering. Once the paper index fell off that was it. So I need some way of making the index mechanism permanent .

    More later ! Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #431
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

    Default

    Why not scribe the lines with a tool on the lathe (like shaping a keyway), then stamp numbers with the jig?

    Failing that, if you can get away with drilling a dowel pin hole through the blank in the same direction as the bore you could pin a sacrificial index plate to the front, and remove it when done. Depends on whether the handwheel or whatever is going on will cover the hole, but I guess you could make the blank longer, drill a blind dowel pin hole and face the extra off when done to get rid of the dowel pin hole.

  12. #432
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    Why not scribe the lines with a tool on the lathe (like shaping a keyway), then stamp numbers with the jig?

    Failing that, if you can get away with drilling a dowel pin hole through the blank in the same direction as the bore you could pin a sacrificial index plate to the front, and remove it when done. Depends on whether the hand wheel or whatever is going on will cover the hole, but I guess you could make the blank longer, drill a blind dowel pin hole and face the extra off when done to get rid of the dowel pin hole.
    Hi J&H,

    Thank you for your suggestions.

    Actually that was my original thought, particularly as I have a 40 tooth lathe change wheel. Then knowing that I had the Pryor stamps, but no way to hold them or the change wheel using the lathe.

    With regard to the stamping tool, yes I was going down the path of putting an index plate on the front, I even made one using a thin wood disc with a new paper glued to it, I drilled and threaded a hole in the dial and then realised that I need to be able to put a zero on the first index and then a 10 with the one on one side of the index and a zero on the other, then the same for 20, 30, and 40 would be the starting zero. To do this means being able to index a half tooth on the gear.

    I turned up a small handle to thread onto the hole ! I'll take some more pictures tomorrow.

    Realistically the one thou divisions would be arbitrary anyway very much the same as the cross slide dial on a lathe. But once the workpiece is removed you can't guarantee that it will go back in the same position.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #433
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Here's a few pics of the tools I made for engraving/scribing the index marks and punching the numbers, both are held in the tool post.

    The division engraver - the steel block with the 3 socket head screws is held in the tool post as a normal cutting tool would be - the height is adjusted (QCTP) so the cutting tool, held in the end with a grub screw is on centre. The knurled? round section at the rear carries 3 adjustable screws so the length of the stoke can be set in one of 4 positions (3 screws and one position with no screw) a ball and spring type detent locks it in any of the 4 positions. The lever sticking up is self explanatory - back and forward moves the cutting tool back and forward.

    The number punch holder does not really need an explanation.

    To engrave the dial I turned it to size and left it in the lathe - mounted the engraving tool in the tool post and set it to centre, once all of the index marks had been engraved I mounted my number punch holder in the tool post for the numbers.


    Doing it in the lathe like this has the advantage that you can move either the number punch or division punch relative to the work piece - no need to remove the work piece from the lathe chuck until the job is done - in your case you could mount your 45 tooth indexing gear and work piece on a boss held in the lathe chuck - turn the work piece to it's final size and then carry out the engraving - just a thought

    20210423_094957.jpg 20210423_095005.jpg20210423_095019.jpg20210423_103331.jpg

  14. #434
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    Why not scribe the lines with a tool on the lathe (like shaping a keyway), then stamp numbers with the jig?

    Failing that, if you can get away with drilling a dowel pin hole through the blank in the same direction as the bore you could pin a sacrificial index plate to the front, and remove it when done. Depends on whether the handwheel or whatever is going on will cover the hole, but I guess you could make the blank longer, drill a blind dowel pin hole and face the extra off when done to get rid of the dowel pin hole.
    Hi J&H,

    Actually that provides me with the solution to securing the plastic gear to the shaft to prevent it moving and positively locating it, ensuring that the shaft has to turn with the gear.

    I'll post a picture later !

    Thanks for the Idea
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #435
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi FamilyGuy,

    Thank you for the pictures and explanation of your device for indexing and marking.

    That could have been a good method for me, particularly if it had occurred to me that I could have secured the lathe change wheel on the outer side of the workpiece to index it.

    We live and learn as they say !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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