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  1. #406
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    69
    Posts
    4,845

    Default

    [QUOTE=BaronJ;19785 I've also ground off the serrated cups from the end of the grub screws so that they don't mar the shaft when tightened.[/QUOTE]

    Hi John, nice work. A tip I picked sometime ago, was to drill the ends of the grub screws and place the little brass screws from electrical fittings, so they don't bite into the shaft, as even without serrations, they still bite into it. DAMHIKT.
    Drill the hole slightly smaller than the shaft of the screw and hammer them in.
    HTH
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  2. #407
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Hi John, nice work. A tip I picked sometime ago, was to drill the ends of the grub screws and place the little brass screws from electrical fittings, so they don't bite into the shaft, as even without serrations, they still bite into it. DAMHIKT.
    Drill the hole slightly smaller than the shaft of the screw and hammer them in.
    HTH
    Kryn
    Hi Kryn,

    Thanks for your post and the tip about making brass screw tips !

    These grub screws are 10 gauge by 32 tpi so are only slightly larger than 4 mm X 4 mm. I punch pieces of 50 thou plastic sheet so that I get little flat discs that I drop into the grubscrew holes, the grub screws sit on those. The flattened end of the grubscrew doesn't bite its way through them to mar the shaft.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #408
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I won't be doing any more work on this project until after Christmas !

    In the meantime thank you for all the support you have given me over the past years.

    Merry Christmas from North Yorkshire !

    Stay Safe:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #409
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Index ring !

    Hi Guys,

    Well I thought that I would go out into the workshop and make the index ring for the ER25 collet chuck I'm going to be using on the grinder.

    I had a scrap alloy video head from a VCR so I've turned it down and bored a 20 mm diameter hole through it to make the ring.

    02-01-2021-003.jpg 02-01-2021-002.JPG 02-01-2021-001.jpg

    These pictures are of the ring and how it fits on the collet shaft. I still have to make a thumbscrew and an index pin to finish it off. Though it is not visible in the last picture, I have also machined a flat on the alloy disc under the collet. This was done in order to clear the spanner flats on the collet, allowing the collet to rotate 360 degrees in the holder.

    Thanks for looking !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #410
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Lax !

    Hi Guys,

    Sorry I've gotten a little behind with this grinder ! Other things have got in the way.

    I hope to make a start making some of the bits and pieces needed to finish it off very soon.

    Thanks for understanding and your support !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #411
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Knob Collet & Nut.

    Hi Guys,

    I decided to do some more work on the TCG today, seeing as the snow threatened to keep us both inside. Fortunately the snow held off yesterday whilst I went and got my anti covid vaccine jab. I was in and out in less than ten minutes. The drive to the vaccine centre took more than double that time.

    08-02-2021-001.jpg

    One of the jobs that needed doing is to make a suitable knob for the X -Y table drive leadscrew, to replace the temporary black fluted one that you can see in this picture.

    In order to do this I had to dis-assemble the table so that I could remove the leadscrew and using the lathe turn the end of the screw down to 6 mm diameter for the collet fitting. I had originally turned it down to 1/4" inch (6.3 mm) to suit the black knob.

    You can see the leadscrew support bearings on either end and the brass drive nut bolted to the lower part of the table. The screws that are on the desk top are the ones that secured all the bits together.

    08-02-2021-002.JPG 08-02-2021-003.JPG

    These two pictures are the nut that the leadscrew runs in and the end ones supporting the leadscrew that moves the table back and forth.

    08-02-2021-004.JPG 08-02-2021-005.jpg

    These first of these two pictures are the collet and the plate nut before drilling the 2 mm diameter pin holes. The second is the jig that I used to hold the plate nut and set the spacing for the drilling the pin holes. The pin wrench is stood on end to the right of the jig. The plate nut was drilled 8 mm for the M9 X 1 thread.

    The collet has yet to be slit and threaded to match the fastening plate nut. In the mean time I will reassemble the table and make sure that it still moves smoothly.

    Thanks Guys ! Your attention is appreciated.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #412
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Grinding Wheel !

    Hi Guys,

    Thank you for your patience, I really should get back to doing something more on this TCG. I bought a DRO for the mill and as part of fitting it, serviced the mill and repaired the motor, then made some modifications to my mill. It is much improved.

    I have just ordered a 100 mm by 10 mm thick 120 grit grinding wheel for it from "Abtec" here in the UK. It was a special order because the standard grit wheel is 36 and far too coarse. They did say that they would keep a small stock of this wheel if there was any demand. Anyway I will/should have it on Monday. Not bad for 25 inc free delivery.

    I will post pictures when I receive it.

    I need to regrind a couple of four flute milling cutters that I've dropped and chipped the edge off one of the flutes. It doesn't do the tiles any good either !

    More later: Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #413
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    66
    Posts
    256

    Default T & C wheels

    Hello Baron.
    For my T & C work I use a 38A 60 wheel, flared cup. It gives a good finish and runs cool. The same spec is used for cylindrical grinding. The finish is mainly controlled by the wheel impringement on the work. Feed pressure. Fine wheels will run hot due to the higher number of abrasive grains in contact with the work. Also the pore space between grains is smaller giving less cooling. Diamond and CBN wheels need much finer grain numbers like 220.
    Regards
    BC

  9. #414
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steamloco1954 View Post
    Hello Baron.
    For my T & C work I use a 38A 60 wheel, flared cup. It gives a good finish and runs cool. The same spec is used for cylindrical grinding. The finish is mainly controlled by the wheel impingement on the work. Feed pressure. Fine wheels will run hot due to the higher number of abrasive grains in contact with the work. Also the pore space between grains is smaller giving less cooling. Diamond and CBN wheels need much finer grain numbers like 220.
    Regards
    BC
    HI BC,

    Thank you for your post, interesting information. I didn't know about finer wheels running hotter.

    I do have some 75 mm by 50 mm, 38 mm bore 60 grit wheels, but I've never used them because I thought them far too coarse. The wheel that I use on my drill grinder is a 180 grit diamond one, which whips material off at a good speed. They are languishing in a box somewhere, I'll have to dig them out.

    The more coarse grit wheels are also as much as 50% cheaper than the finer ones. A 60 grit wheel the same size as the one I've bought is half the price and 30 grit cheaper again.

    The 120 grit was the grain size recommended by them for HSS tool sharpening, the more coarse grit used for shaping the tools.

    I'll get some pictures later.

    20-03-2021-003.JPG 20-03-2021-002.jpg 20-03-2021-001.JPG
    Pictures of the 75mm X 50 mm, 10 mm wall, 38 mm bore, 60 grit wheels.
    I also found a 75 mm (3" inch) by 12.5 mm (1/2" half inch) 80 grit wheel with a 12.5 mm bore that I didn't know that I had.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BaronJ; 21st Mar 2021 at 12:56 AM. Reason: Added Pictures.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #415
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Making a Hub insert !

    Hi Guys,

    I mentioned in the previous post that I had come across a 75 mm (3" inch) by 12.7 mm (1/2" half inch thick) 80 grit wheel with a 12.7 mm bore. Of course this will just rattle on a 12 mm shaft. So I made an insert, a thin PVC sleeve to fit in the wheel bore and take up the gap between the wheel and the fit on the 12 mm shaft that the wheel will turn on.

    22-03-2021-004.JPG 22-03-2021-003.jpg
    These are pictures of the PVC sleeve that I made. It is 12 mm long by 12 mm bore with a 0.35 mm (13 Thou) wall thickness. I turned the outside down to size first and then drilled an 11 mm hole in the end of the PVC bar. That went very well, I did expect that the drill might grab and twist the thin wall off. I then used a 4 mm boring bar to machine the inner to 12 mm using the piece of precision ground bar as a plug gauge. What did surprise me was the colour change of the PVC from white to this off yellow colour. All the black marks on the plastic are from me trying the fit.

    22-03-2021-002.JPG
    I also made a clamp washer to go up against the bearing spacer on the grinder spindle and a pair of thin cardboard blotters to fit on each side of the wheel.

    22-03-2021-005.jpg 22-03-2021-001.jpg
    These two pictures show the sleeve inside the wheel bore using a piece of precision ground 12 mm bar. I've yet to assemble the wheel on the grinder spindle, but spinning it with the lathe shows almost no runout and no hint of rattling. But that was only 1200 rpm, on the grinder it will be up around 5K rpm.

    I'll take some more pictures when I've got it set up on the grinder.

    Thanks for looking !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #416
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    56
    Posts
    5,815

    Default

    Commercial grinding wheels have plastic spacers (not that thin mind you). The only thing I might suggest is making it slightly shorter than the thickness of the wheel, just to be certain the washers are clamping on the wheel and not on the spacer - a touch on a linisher would do it, or a sharp knife.

    Michael

  12. #417
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    343

    Default

    If you plan to use a number of different wheels then it is a good idea to make up as many hubs as you have wheels - once the wheel is mounted on the hub and trued it should remain that way as long as it is left on the hub, I made up 4 hubs and recently wished I had a 5th.

  13. #418
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Commercial grinding wheels have plastic spacers (not that thin mind you). The only thing I might suggest is making it slightly shorter than the thickness of the wheel, just to be certain the washers are clamping on the wheel and not on the spacer - a touch on a linisher would do it, or a sharp knife.

    Michael
    Thank you Michael, yes I did that on the lathe using the 12 mm precision bar as a mandrel and a Stanley knife blade.
    It was a tight enough fit to get away with without it spiralling onto the blade cutting edge.

    I've noticed that it is much harder to slide it on the mandrel today than it was yesterday !

    PS: Thanks for the video that you did on "Bandsaws" I watched it when Kryn posted the link
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #419
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Testing 75 mm wheel !

    Hi Guys,

    I've made a couple of other bits so that I can mount the wheel and test things out. I made another wheel clamp and a large washer to clamp it all together on the spindle.

    23-03-2021-002.JPG 23-03-2021-003.jpg 23-03-2021-001.jpg

    These three pictures show the 75 mm by 12.7 mm grinding wheel fitted to the grinding spindle on the modified Brooks TCG. You can see the collet in the holder where I removed the diamond point that I used to true the wheel. The band that you can see is because I had a go at regrinding the 16 mm four flute end mill that I dropped and chipped a corner off.

    Having had a play with the grinder, I've discovered a couple of things that need addressing, but I will do that in the next post.

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #420
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    66
    Posts
    256

    Default grinding wheel

    Hello again.
    The wheel looks to be regular A or bench grinder grade. Toolroom wheels are usually White or 38A and softer. 38A is sharper and more friable.
    Regards
    BC

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