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  1. #391
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Thumbs up EN1 bar.

    Hi Guys,

    The piece of 32 mm diameter EN1-RB3 bar turned up yesterday afternoon. I queried what the (RB3) was, and was told "Round Bar - 3 Mtrs long" ! Apparently that is the length that they buy in.

    The threading insert hasn't turned up yet !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #392
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    55

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    No, its this one where he explains in detail what Shed has just written in a single sentence

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCllVu4K738

    Steve
    Thanks for this link Steve. This guy is a legend!

  3. #393
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I've cut a piece off the 32 mm EN1 round bar and made a new piece as before ! A friend of mine has given me a threading insert until mine turns up. So I've now got the wheel hub threaded and I've drilled it 10 mm diameter ready for boring to fit the 12 mm diameter grinding spindle shaft.

    With a bit of luck, tomorrow I will bore the hub and part it off ready for drilling the holes for the grub screws to secure it to the spindle.

    I'll post some pictures later.

    Thanks for the help and comments Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #394
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Thumbs up Wheel Hub part made !

    Hi Guys,

    I promised some pictures of the main part of the grinding wheel hub that I started yesterday and finished today.

    04-12-2020-004.JPG 04-12-2020-003.jpg

    This is the hub body turned, threaded and bored out to 12 mm to fit the grinding cartridge spindle. You can only see one of the three threaded holes for the 10 - 32 hex grub screws in this picture. The hub is sat on the finger plate clamp that I used to drill the holes prior to threading them.

    The second picture shows the hub body clamped in the finger plate clamp which in turn is clamped in the 4" inch record machine vise. The "V" groove in the finger plate makes centring the holes easy. The finger plate was designed to hold up to 15 mm diameter work. Here it is clamping 16 mm, you can see from the brass thumbscrew that its at its limit.


    04-12-2020-001.jpg 04-12-2020-002.JPG

    This piece I am turning in this picture is the other half of the wheel hub. This part is the bit that the grinding wheel actually sits on and is secured by a plate nut, yet to be made. Again I'm using a piece of scrap 35 mm EN1 to make the part. The picture shows the turning of the other half of the tapered section. Since the lathe tool doesn't have any back rake, the material is basically scraped off, hence the thin flakes. The second picture shows the tool. I used the jig that I showed earlier to set the angles, it worked quite well. Both parts fitting together nicely.

    04-12-2020-005.jpg

    This is how far I've got today ! The part on the right has yet to be turned down to 20 mm to suit the grinding wheel bore. I need to find another piece of material to make the plate nut that will be used to fasten the hub assembly together.

    Thanks for looking everyone, nice to have you along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #395
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Thumbs up Wgeel Hub Finished !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now completed the work on the wheel hub. Today I've made the nut that holds the grinding wheel and clamps it up. I've just the pin holes to drill when I sort out the pin wrench, got to get the spacing right.

    06-12-2020-001.JPG

    This is one of the grinding wheels that the hub is intended to support. It is a 100 mm diameter flat wheel with a tapered edged diamond surface. I got this one from Ali Express earlier this year. In this picture it is mounted onto the hub.

    06-12-2020-005.jpg 06-12-2020-006.jpg 06-12-2020-004.jpg

    These pictures show the hub mounted on the grinding spindle cartridge shaft.

    06-12-2020-002.jpg 06-12-2020-003.jpg

    These two pictures show how the assembled hub and wheel will appear when mounted on the grinder. I've yet to spin it up with the hub and wheel mounted. The assembly seems to be quite well balanced, I'll find out how well later on when I've made the belt tensioner assembly.

    I've used three grub screws 120 degrees apart to secure the hub to the spindle shaft. I've also ground off the serrated cups from the end of the grub screws so that they don't mar the shaft when tightened.

    More to come later. Thank you for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #396
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    I see you have a diamond wheel - are you planning on using it with HSS, if so it will be good to get a first hand report on how it goes, I did read in a number of places on the internet that diamond wheels are a no no when it comes to HSS and CBN is the go. When buying on Ali or Ebay often the seller has no good knowledge of the product they are selling and while they may describe the wheel as diamond or CBN they may not really know them selves, I do not know how to tell one apart from the other.

  7. #397
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Default

    Hi Familyguy, Guys,

    Thanks for your post.

    Yes the wheel is diamond in a resin matrix, I have a couple of others that I use for grinding HSS drills, lathe tools and the like, it removes carbide quite well. They work very well giving a very nice clean finish. They are not that expensive either, non cost me more than £10 UK pounds. The edge is quite fragile though and dosen't like to be knocked. They are rated to 5K though I've never run mine faster than 2800/3000 rpm and I've currently got the grinding spindle set for 5500 rpm. Though I do have another timing pulley that will reduce the speed to 3200 rpm if I need to.

    I'm starting to get to the stage where there are a lot of small things to be done or made in order to get to the point of being a usable machine. One thing that I didn't account for was the weight ! Its up around 45 Ibs at the moment.

    Edit: Ahrg I didn't notice the speeling error in the title ! I wonder if a moderator could correct that. Pretty Please. Thanks.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #398
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Thumbs up Belt Tensioner !

    Hi Guys,

    I've drawn up my Ideas for a belt tensioner for the timing belt on the grinder since whilst it runs and drives the grinding spindle it really needs to be tightened up a little.

    Belt Tensioner.png

    The large end is intended to clamp around the grinding cartridge body in a similar way to the way the spindle cartridge is secured. I've shown a pair of M3 screws used to secure the cap so that the tensioner body can grip the cartridge and be adjusted to set the belt tension. I had considered a spring loaded tensioner arm but decided that this way would be more reliable and easier to make.

    The small green circle represents the two 13 mm diameter ball races running on a 5 mm diameter shaft pressed fitted into the aluminium body, the larger black circle is the outer diameter of the wheel that will run on the back of the timing belt, there will be a 2.5 mm deep channel for the belt to run in. I've not shown a drawing for the aluminium frame since it is just machined from a piece of scrap 12 mm plate.

    I propose to make the tensioner wheel from Nylon 60 and the two bearings a press fit, one on each side with an "E" clip as a retainer.

    I will post pictures of these parts as and when I've made them.

    Thanks for looking. Your thoughts are appreciated.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #399
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Default Belt Tensioner started !

    Hi Guys,

    Its a quiet cold miserable day here in Blighty so I've been amusing myself with cutting a piece of scrap 10 mm thick aluminium plate in order to make the belt tensioner described and drawn earlier.

    The dimensions have changed slightly, so if anyone wants a new drawing with the changes, please shout out and I will redraw it

    09-12-2020-002.jpg 09-12-2020-001.jpg

    These two pictures are of the piece of aluminium plate now cut to size, and marked out and drilled with 5 mm holes. You can just see the scribed lines depicting the outlines of the body and the circles that are where the pressed in 5 mm bearing spindle goes and the large circle where the hole for the grinding spindle cartridge body fits and is clamped.

    09-12-2020-003.jpg 09-12-2020-004.jpg

    I used a pair of 5 mm steel pins pressed into the plate that forms the tensioner body so that they would rest on top of the mill vise. I then raised up what will become the small end with a 12 mm thick spacer to get the correct angle on the body. I removed the unwanted material with a 16 mm four flute end mill running at about a 1000 rpm with WD40 as a cutting lubricant.

    The second picture shows the finished body from the other side.

    NOTE: In the first picture, the left hand one, the milling cutter is shown coming in from the right hand side ! This is wrong the cutter should come from the left side. I took the material off in 1 mm cuts ! I could have taken a bigger cut but the danger is that the work will pull out of the vise if you do that. Cut towards the side with the smallest gripped area. I also used a cardboard packing to aid gripping a smooth surface.

    09-12-2020-005.jpg

    The next step was to round off the small end of the aluminium body.

    So I gripped the 5 mm pin at the small end and used a second pin to act as a packing piece at the other end of the vise jaws. You can just see the pin at the bottom right of the picture. Taking fine cuts, just a few thou at a time, swinging the workpiece using the pin as a pivot I very carefully machined away the surplus material to give me a nice smooth curve.

    Now to start on the other end ! More on this later.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #400
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Possibly too far down the track for you now, but when I did the tensioner for the knee oil pump on the TOS mill I just ran the bearings directly on the belt.
    Two bearings side by side.
    Saves the extra work of making a pulley

    Steve

  11. #401
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Possibly too far down the track for you now, but when I did the tensioner for the knee oil pump on the TOS mill I just ran the bearings directly on the belt.
    Two bearings side by side.
    Saves the extra work of making a pulley

    Steve
    Hi Steve, thank you for your suggestion ! That thought hadn't even crossed my mind, and I've dozens of those 13 mm diameter bearings. Most came out of hard disc drives.

    No not yet I haven't started on making a wheel to run on the belt. Just playing about with the design. But I do agree, just running a couple of bearings directly on the back of the belt would work just fine. As you say saves having to make a pulley wheel. Hopefully I will get the clamp part done today.

    Pictures to follow. Thanks,
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #402
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Thumbs up Belt Tensioner Body completed !

    Hi Guys,

    Following my previous post I have now finished machining the belt tensioner body ! All I have to do now is cut the 5 mm shaft for the bearings to length and machine an "E" clip groove and maybe a spacer, just in case the bearings ride down the shaft towards the frame.

    10-12-2020-001.jpg 10-12-2020-002.jpg

    In these two pictures you can see that in preparation for boring out, I used a one inch blacksmiths drill to remove the bulk of material from the hole in the body of the tensioner. I followed that with the boring head and bored the hole out to 30 mm. I didn't take any pictures of the boring out process. It took a number of cuts to get the hole spot on size.

    I did make a 30.00 mm plug gauge to make sure that I didn't go too big. My boring head is a metric one and is supposed to be calibrated in tenths of a mm. Actually it is nearer to 0.2 mm per division.


    After boring out to size, I marked out the top end and drilled a pair of 2.5 mm holes from the top as deep as I could before cutting off the end piece of the body using the bandsaw. After which I put the body part back in the drill vise and drilled the 2.5 mm holes in the body part deeper, going right through so that they came out of the body on the sloping sides.

    Whilst the part was still in the drill vise, I put the M3 tap in the drill chuck and threaded each hole by turning the drill chuck with the chuck key. I used diesel fuel as a tapping lubricant. This completed the work on the tensioner body.


    10-12-2020-006.jpg 10-12-2020-005.jpg

    I had already found two suitable thumb screws with M3 threads to be used for securing the clamping cap, they just needed a little bit of the plastic turning off so that they would fit into the 6 mm diameter counter bores in the tensioner top cap. I also opened out the through holes to 3 mm and counter bored them to 4 mm so that the bit near the top would drop down enough to allow the threads to go into the body by 5 mm.

    The pictures above show the thumbscrews and how they fit.


    10-12-2020-003.JPG 10-12-2020-004.JPG

    This is the assembled tensioner ready for the bearing support pin to be pressed into the 5 mm hole. The support pin is actually the original bearing support from inside a hard disc drive head spindle assembly.

    10-12-2020-007.jpg 10-12-2020-008.jpg 10-12-2020-009.jpg

    These last three pictures are of the tensioner test fitted to the grinding spindle cartridge. As can be seen its a perfect fit. Just slacking off the thumbscrews allows the tensioner to be adjusted with ease.

    More to come when I've fitted the bearing support and bearings.

    Thanks for your support guys !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #403
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Riddells Creek, Vic.
    Posts
    831

    Default

    Looking good John, you are getting very close to completion.

  14. #404
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Default

    Hi Lex,

    Thank you for your post !

    Quote Originally Posted by Techo1 View Post
    Looking good John, you are getting very close to completion.
    Hard to believe that it is getting on towards two years come next March. I wonder if I'll complete it before then.

    It seems to be all the fiddly bits that take up the time. The other problem for me is that I can barely pick it up, if I put it on the floor I'll not be able to lift it up to get it back on a work bench like it is at the moment.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #405
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,434

    Thumbs up Belt Tensioner Finished !

    Hi Guys,

    I have finished the belt tensioning mechanism finished today ! A couple of hiccups but nothing serious.

    In order to put an "E" clip groove into the 5 mm diameter bearing mounting spindle I had to make a grooving tool bit. I already had a HSS lathe tool with a 1 mm wide blade ground into it that I had previously used to put some fins on a casting for a friend. So a quick touch up on the DE grinder and away we go !

    No, it didn't work like that ! I discovered that the bearing spindle from the hard disk drive head assembly was hardened, and promptly broke the newly sharpened tip off the carefully ground grooving bit.

    So fortunately I have some 5 mm diameter Stubbs drill rod. I parted off a 35 mm length and cut an "E" clip groove in that. That went just fine. A slightly wider groove than needed but it really doesn't cause a problem.

    11-12-2020-001.JPG

    This picture is of the reground lathe tool just as I'm starting to cut the groove in the end. After machining the groove I just parted it off to length.

    11-12-2020-004.jpg 11-12-2020-003.jpg 11-12-2020-002.jpg

    These are family pictures of the components used to make up the completed belt tensioner.
    From left to right. A 13 mm long spacer, then a 13 mm diameter bearing, and then a 3 mm long spacer, and then another bearing with a 6 mm long spacer, and then an "E" clip at the end. The third picture shows the assembled spindle.

    11-12-2020-006.jpg 11-12-2020-005.jpg

    These two pictures are the grinder running with the belt tensioner doing its job riding on the back of the belt.

    I did somehow manage to make a 12.6 Meg MP4 video of the grinder running but I don't know if it will upload to the forum. Probably not as it isn't where there is public access. I'll have a look at the "Videos" section !

    That all for now folks ! Thanks for looking and for your support.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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